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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to replace my front pads and rotor on my 2000 mustang. I have all the caliper bolts off (12mm and 15mm) so shouldn't the rotor just slide off the hub now. I also checked to see if the factory clips are holding it on but there aren't any? DO I just beat it off with a rubber mallot or something?
 

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It could be rusted to the hub Try striking the hub area with a good size ball peen it should break the rust free, post up a picture if that dose not work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did notice that the guild pins still moved smoothly though. So what else would cause the inside pad to wear down so fast...a bad caliper? I was using a plasice mallot on the rotor to get it off then someone said to use a steel hammer. I was just afraid I would damage the hub or something else then.

If I take it to a shop are they just going to use a big ass hammer on it?
 

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Yes get a bigger hammer. Bad caliper could have caused the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm just going to take it to a shop. I've had this apart too many times now only to get stuck and put it back together. If I beat the **** out of it with a hammer, I'm going to break something and not be able to put it back together to take to the shop then....that's my kind of luck.
I have all the parts so it should not cost more than an hour labor.
 

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I'm just going to take it to a shop. I've had this apart too many times now only to get stuck and put it back together. If I beat the **** out of it with a hammer, I'm going to break something and not be able to put it back together to take to the shop then....that's my kind of luck.
I have all the parts so it should not cost more than an hour labor.
giving up now , makes it easy to give up on something else .
spry like PB Blaster used ? the BIG BFH used with some power behing it ?
Oh Ya . forgot turn the rotor 1/3 turn between hits from the caliper side (inside) . keep spaying and give it time to work .

never give up
 

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I have all the caliper bolts off (12mm and 15mm) so shouldn't the rotor just slide off the hub now.
You have the bolts off but do you have the caliper off??

Make sure the little push-on nuts are off of the wheel lug studs.

If so, and you're replacing the rotor anyhow then get a big hammer and whack away.

Like previously stated, hit, turn 1/3, hit, turn...

It will come off
 

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From what was said in the original post it sounds like he hasn't removed the caliper from the rotor. The rotor can NOT be removed until the caliper is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, the caliper was completely off(and the bracket), there were no factory rings holding the rotor on. I never saw anything like it. I spayed PB blaster on it, whacked it, pushed, pulled...you name it...I tried it.

When I took it to the shop today, the guy said he has had to take an air saw and cut the rotor off on mustangs and F-150's before. I looked at the new rotor and there really isn't much contact area that touches the hub. I really cant see how they can rust on that strong.
Anyway, I 'll have it back tomorrow after work. It shouldn't take them more than an hour to install a rotor, caliper (if needed),brake hose and front brakes.
 

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Using a hammer will ball up your wheel bearings if they are the sealed hub type.... you'll be changing them out in a month... Are you sure they are rotor hats? They may be one peice rotor/hub assy's.... If so, you need to removed cotter pin and castle nut...
 

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No experience with Mustang, but the F150's ,97 and later are bear for the first change, Good torch and big hammer will do it in most cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
2000 Mustang rotors are not part of the hub.
I wish they still were like that! They were easy to change...rotors and wheel bearings were easy to change when they were like that. Now they are too much like the import crap.
 

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Did you spin the rotor as you hit it or just hit it in one spot? If you're replacing it don't be afraid of a little penetrating and heat to break it loose. Put a little anti-seize on the mating surface when they go back together to prevent future problems.

Rotors separate from the hub make for nice quick brake jobs, especially at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got the car back from the shop today. I asked how he got the rotor off and he said "it took a little convincing but we got er off". He also said the caliper was seized up.

If the slide pins were still moving freely, would a seized caliper make the inner pad wear like that? It didn't make sense to me. I gave him the new rotor, brake hose,pads and a new caliper. I said if it doesnt need the new caliper, dont use it and I will take it back for my money back.

Do you think he just installed the new caliper anyway and just told me it needed replaced. If the piston was seized, that brake would either not work or be stuck locked up depending on where the piston was seized at and wear down both pads....wouldn't it?
 

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I got the car back from the shop today. I asked how he got the rotor off and he said "it took a little convincing but we got er off". He also said the caliper was seized up.

If the slide pins were still moving freely, would a seized caliper make the inner pad wear like that? It didn't make sense to me. I gave him the new rotor, brake hose,pads and a new caliper. I said if it doesnt need the new caliper, dont use it and I will take it back for my money back.

Do you think he just installed the new caliper anyway and just told me it needed replaced. If the piston was seized, that brake would either not work or be stuck locked up depending on where the piston was seized at and wear down both pads....wouldn't it?
can't say what he found.

if pins were seized , outer shoe would not wear .. free slidiong pins , both pads should wear if caliper would'nt retrack . then there is .. it just wore that way

guess he wasnt afraid to put a few good wacks on the rotor
 
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