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car won't start

4K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  rod n az 
#1 ·
Okay I tried starting my car today, and it woudn't carnk. So I left it and had my mom give me a ride.

Later on in the evening I went to try to work on it. The starter wouldn't carnk the engine. I had my brother turn the key, and there is a buzzing noise coming from the starter solenoid. I checked the battery with a multimeter and it reads 11.9 volts. So I charged it up more, then tried to start it, nothing. Charged the battery again, then had my brother read the volts on the battery while carnking, and he said it was going down fast, 8 volts, then to 6 volts.

What is the problem? Battery or starter solenoid? Or should I replace both? I got the battery back in October.
 
#2 ·
When the key is turned to start try hitting the top of the starter solenoid with the handle end of a screw driver....maybe it is stuck? More then one has done that to me. If that is the quick fix, I would recomend getting a new one. I HOPE THIS WORKS!
Good Luck!

Jeff Given
 
#8 ·
I took the Optima battery from my brother's car and put it in mine. The engine fired right up. (I don't think the neighbors liked that very much, that was at 11:30 to midnight when I worked on the car) I did have two Optima yellow tops, but gave one to my brother and the other is in my dad's truck. I guess it's time to buy another one, and keep it this time.

Oh yeah, the system was draining the battery. The monitors are the ones using all the juice. I have a 100 amp alternator coming in the mail. I think that should be effeciate. But to be safe, should I go ahead and replace the starter solenoid anyway?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: rod n az on 2/22/02 3:11pm ]</font>
 
#11 ·
I've seen it where the battery terminal/connector get corroded and make a poor connection, and when you go to start all it does is click.
 
#12 ·
I am going to the audio store I get my stuff at, and see if they have a solenoid for my car (will a mustang one work?)

I am also going to get another Optima yellow top battery, I think the car will be okay after that, with the new alternator, battery, and the solenoid, right?

Just out of curiosity, I will clean the terminals on the battery I got now, and see if it starts like you said Stang.
 
#13 ·
If you plan on putting two batteries in your car get a battery isolator and install it and you'll never have the problem of the system draining your starting battery again.
It'll allow the alternator to charge both batteries but the system will only draw off one and the rest of the car/accessories off the other.
 
#15 ·
Yea 66stang, my little brothers Buick did that. All it would do was click. Battery didnt even look that dirty. Even replaced the solinoid. then I cleaned the posts and it fired right up.
 
#16 ·
The Ford solenoid on the inner fender very rarely goes bad.

If the solenoid on the inner fender only clicks, 99% of the time the battery or cables are the problem. More times than not the battery.

The solnoid on the starters give more trouble than the solenoids on the inner fender. This is from the same problem chevy's have always experienced, heat from the exhaust and engine.

If it doesn't click and the engine refuses to turn or turns very slowly, more times than not, it is the starter. And generally the bushings in the starter are worn and the armature is dragging inside the starter.

If the starter turns and whines after momentarily turning the engine, the starter bendix is bad.

The bushings and bendix are replacable items for DIY'r and releative inexspensive in price as compared to a rebuilt/new starter.
 
#17 ·
Okay problem solved. It was the battery. BUt to be sure I don't drain it anymore, I'm not going to jam out to music or watch movies in my car until I get the new alternator. But I did go to get two new Optima yellow tops, and I am going to install them in the car now. I didn't get the solenoid, they said it should be okay. Thanks for your helps guys.
 
#18 ·
I have seen a good battery go bad by what's know as a power draw on the battery. I take it you have some serious audio equipment in your car if not hooked up right it can put a draw on the battery. To test this turn all power off in the car and if it has a light that comes on when you open the hood remove the bulb. You want all power shut down nothing on at all. Then disconnect the (-) side battery cable and put a test light between the cable and the battery terminal. If the light comes on you have a draw somewhere in the system. I would then get in the car and remove each fuse one at a time and check the test light. Don't leave the door open cause it will close the dome light circuit and light up the test light. If the light goes out when you remove a fuse that's the circuit that has the draw. Then find out what is controlled by that circuit and check each component on that circuit. I have seen trunk lights, glove box lights, radios even regulators create a draw.

Just thought I'd throw this into the topic. Seen people replace the battery to find it dead in a few day's.
 
#19 ·
This may have been covered somewhere in this post and I apologize in advance if this is redundant.

Your battery is probably not the primary problem, especially with the video screens. It is most likely the alternator not keeping up with the charging. Your battery probably died because the alternator wasn't able to keep up.

The buzzing you hear is your solenoid. It may be bad or just not getting enough juice. Again, check your connections and battery.

Make sure all the connections are clean and glistening pieces of metal before tightening them down. Even then though, they seem to corrode rapidly when there is a stack of connectors on the solenoid. try spacing each ring-connector with a lock washer if you have a lot on there. Also, if your solenoid is really close to your header it may go bad quite frequently. Consider moving the solenoid if you think it's getting too hot.

Dual batteries aren't a bad idea if you have room under your hood but it won't stop the car from dying. It'll just make sure you have a spare battery to go to if your other dies.

Focus on the alternator. Get dual alternators if you have to or just one really good one. In my opinion they'ed be a much better fix than dual batteries.

On a side note, protect your investment on your stereo. I've had many nice CD players stolen. Get a good alarm, etc. Don't play your stereo near your house. It seens there's always some guy that hears a stereo, knows you have it and waits for the day you get careless.

PS: liked your car, black is a great color.
 
#20 ·
Okay here is the scoop. I have two Optima yellow yop batteries in my car now. Both under the hood. By placing them sideways, I was able to fit both under the hood. I do have an isolater between them. I plan on putting them in the trunk in the future. I have a 100 amp alternator ordered from Jeg's, and I should have it by the end of next week at the latest. I will try that alternator and see if it will keep up with the stereo system. If not, then I'll order another alternator, but I think it should be okay. Also, the stereo shop said my solenoid is okay.

As for turning my system down near my house, I know about those guys. When I had my Tundra, I had two stereo systems stolen. One was in front of my house. Like you said, I got careless and forgot to lock the doors. Plus the neighbors don't really like "noise" that much anyway.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: rod n az on 2/23/02 7:11pm ]</font>
 
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