Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to this forum and I need some help. This summer I bought a 67 Galaxie 500 with a 390 and auto transmission as my first car. Soon I will be pulling the motor to replace gaskets and some other things. I want to boost the performance a little but I only have $1000 - $1500 to spend. I already bought a 600 CFM Edelbrock carburetor and cast iron manifold. What things could I do to increase horsepower and torque and it still be able to be driven to school (streetable). Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
I'm new to this forum and I need some help. This summer I bought a 67 Galaxie 500 with a 390 and auto transmission as my first car. Soon I will be pulling the motor to replace gaskets and some other things. I want to boost the performance a little but I only have $1000 - $1500 to spend. I already bought a 600 CFM Edelbrock carburetor and cast iron manifold. What things could I do to increase horsepower and torque and it still be able to be driven to school (streetable). Thanks.
probably rear gears and a posi. depends on the condition of the engine though. an old worn out tired engine might not appreciate the extra RPM's on the freeway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,801 Posts
I'm new to this forum and I need some help. This summer I bought a 67 Galaxie 500 with a 390 and auto transmission as my first car. Soon I will be pulling the motor to replace gaskets and some other things. I want to boost the performance a little but I only have $1000 - $1500 to spend. I already bought a 600 CFM Edelbrock carburetor and cast iron manifold. What things could I do to increase horsepower and torque and it still be able to be driven to school (streetable). Thanks.
- Dual 2.5 inch exhaust and good mufflers
- Scour the junkyards for a 28 spline 3.50 posi
- Shift kit in the tranny
- Have the distributor recurved
- Open element air cleaner

It'll feel like a rocket and stay within your budget if you shop around. You may want do the things above before the intake and carb swap, because if you are careful, you may have enough money to buy an aluminum intake, like a Streetmaster, Street Dominator, or Edelbrock RPM instead

I normally say "headers first", but in your case, the labor and difficulty in getting the bolts out of the heads may leave you stranded, so I'd give up the extra power and next year, if the car turns into a long term toy, you can go to the next level
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the help. I will be doing all of the things recommend, but for right now I will definitely go with a cam and shift kit. I never thought about recurving the distributor or different gears. I live 5 minutes from Summit Racing and a couple junkyards so parts are pretty easy to find around here. I am hoping to have the car finished before I start highschool next year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
622 Posts
Thanks for the help. I will be doing all of the things recommend, but for right now I will definitely go with a cam and shift kit. I never thought about recurving the distributor or different gears. I live 5 minutes from Summit Racing and a couple junkyards so parts are pretty easy to find around here. I am hoping to have the car finished before I start highschool next year.
finished before high school next year? realistically expect a build to take much longer than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Thanks for the help. I will be doing all of the things recommend, but for right now I will definitely go with a cam and shift kit. I never thought about recurving the distributor or different gears. I live 5 minutes from Summit Racing and a couple junkyards so parts are pretty easy to find around here. I am hoping to have the car finished before I start highschool next year.
5 minutes from Summit Racing??? I'm so jealous! :)


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,801 Posts
Thanks for the help. I will be doing all of the things recommend, but for right now I will definitely go with a cam and shift kit. I never thought about recurving the distributor or different gears. I live 5 minutes from Summit Racing and a couple junkyards so parts are pretty easy to find around here. I am hoping to have the car finished before I start highschool next year.
Young gun

A little bit of a repeat here but as an old FE guy and hot rodder I want to try to save you some bucks.

The distributor recurve, the shift kit, gears, and a good dual exhaust will make a dramatic change in street performance. On the track or dyno it may not pull big numbers, but it will be a superb bang for the buck and keep some dough in your pockets. I would do those even before the cam and the intake.

Later, if the engine is sound, big if, and if you decide it is the car you want for long term, the next phase would be headers, cam and intake. Headers are critical for a deep breathing FE, and you need to pull the intake to do the cam, so its smart to do them all. BTW the iron intake wont cut it for power, so that's why I would wait. Let the budget recover and do a big second push

Normally I add headers to step one not step 2, but upper exhaust manifold bolts break on FEs all the time, so it'd be much easier to recover from when the intake is off later. No use stranding yourself with a daily driver because you broke the bolts and now need to pull the heads.

To give you some idea of where you'd be, in step one, gears, shift kit, etc, you'd have a car that will roast the tires at will, chirp gears at each shift, the exhaust will sound great, and get as good or better mileage than stock. Even with only the 2 barrel it'll feel like it gained 100 hp

Step two will make it faster, but IMO, I'd wait on the second push to see how the bottom end holds up, and to give you time to horse trade for a better intake etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
200 Posts
Young gun

A little bit of a repeat here but as an old FE guy and hot rodder I want to try to save you some bucks.

The distributor recurve, the shift kit, gears, and a good dual exhaust will make a dramatic change in street performance. On the track or dyno it may not pull big numbers, but it will be a superb bang for the buck and keep some dough in your pockets. I would do those even before the cam and the intake.

Later, if the engine is sound, big if, and if you decide it is the car you want for long term, the next phase would be headers, cam and intake. Headers are critical for a deep breathing FE, and you need to pull the intake to do the cam, so its smart to do them all. BTW the iron intake wont cut it for power, so that's why I would wait. Let the budget recover and do a big second push

Normally I add headers to step one not step 2, but upper exhaust manifold bolts break on FEs all the time, so it'd be much easier to recover from when the intake is off later. No use stranding yourself with a daily driver because you broke the bolts and now need to pull the heads.

To give you some idea of where you'd be, in step one, gears, shift kit, etc, you'd have a car that will roast the tires at will, chirp gears at each shift, the exhaust will sound great, and get as good or better mileage than stock. Even with only the 2 barrel it'll feel like it gained 100 hp

Step two will make it faster, but IMO, I'd wait on the second push to see how the bottom end holds up, and to give you time to horse trade for a better intake etc.
Well said and I totally agree. :)


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Young gun

A little bit of a repeat here but as an old FE guy and hot rodder I want to try to save you some bucks.

The distributor recurve, the shift kit, gears, and a good dual exhaust will make a dramatic change in street performance. On the track or dyno it may not pull big numbers, but it will be a superb bang for the buck and keep some dough in your pockets. I would do those even before the cam and the intake.

Later, if the engine is sound, big if, and if you decide it is the car you want for long term, the next phase would be headers, cam and intake. Headers are critical for a deep breathing FE, and you need to pull the intake to do the cam, so its smart to do them all. BTW the iron intake wont cut it for power, so that's why I would wait. Let the budget recover and do a big second push

Normally I add headers to step one not step 2, but upper exhaust manifold bolts break on FEs all the time, so it'd be much easier to recover from when the intake is off later. No use stranding yourself with a daily driver because you broke the bolts and now need to pull the heads.

To give you some idea of where you'd be, in step one, gears, shift kit, etc, you'd have a car that will roast the tires at will, chirp gears at each shift, the exhaust will sound great, and get as good or better mileage than stock. Even with only the 2 barrel it'll feel like it gained 100 hp

Step two will make it faster, but IMO, I'd wait on the second push to see how the bottom end holds up, and to give you time to horse trade for a better intake etc.
I really appreciate the help. I've been having some trouble with my original carb, that's why I was going to replace it with the edelbrock and intake, but if you think I should wait then I will just rebuild the original one. I already had plans to do a shift kit, and a dual exhaust either 2.5" or 3". Now I'm going to be looking for gears.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,801 Posts
I really appreciate the help. I've been having some trouble with my original carb, that's why I was going to replace it with the edelbrock and intake, but if you think I should wait then I will just rebuild the original one. I already had plans to do a shift kit, and a dual exhaust either 2.5" or 3". Now I'm going to be looking for gears.
Honestly, i think a 25 dollar kit in the 2 barrel and an open element air cleaner would be good enough and focus on the other things for now.

If you really think the carb is junk, well, you could put the 4 barrel on, but if it takes away from gears, distributor, exhaust and shift kit, I'd wait
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Honestly, i think a 25 dollar kit in the 2 barrel and an open element air cleaner would be good enough and focus on the other things for now.

If you really think the carb is junk, well, you could put the 4 barrel on, but if it takes away from gears, distributor, exhaust and shift kit, I'd wait
I already have the 4 barrel, also the original carb is in pretty bad condition so the 4 barrel will be easier for me. Also what diameter tubing should I use for exhaust? And what shift kit would you recommend?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,801 Posts
I'd go 2 1/2

Its a little bigger than the exhaust manifold outlet (which is either 2.0 or 2.25) but if you decide to put headers on later it will be a good match and will support future upgrades

I like Transgo kits, but you could as easily go to a local shop and them you want them to put one in and adjust everything at the same time. Most shops use Transgo, but they also may just be able to use something they have in stock to get the desired results.

The goal is as little slip as possible during shifts, it makes the tranny last longer and makes it feel like a racer
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,801 Posts
BTW, if you swap the intake manifold, do not use Felpro Printoseal gaskets. They dont hold up in FEs for some reason.

Either the blue Felpro without the silicone ring, Edelbrock or Mr Gasket seem to work well.

If you haven't swapped an FE intake, be ready, the end gaskets can be tricky for some. I glue the end gaskets to the block with weather strip cement, then put RTV on top, and assemble when the RTV is wet.

It allows the manifold to slide on the gasket and not push it out.

Some guys use "Right Stuff" and no end gaskets at all, but a stock iron manifold may have too large of a gap to do that. Look close and be careful because if that back gasket leaks, the car will make a mess that you will regret for a long time

Is there any chance, seeing that you have decided to swap the carb, that you could find an aluminum manifold? MUCH easier to install and all but a few will make a lot more power

For instance, in dyno testing an iron 4 barrel and an Edelbrock Streetmaster, Holley Street Dominator, or Edelbrock RPM has shown 40-50 HP difference at the crank on a 400 hp motor. On yours it would be worth probably 25 and be MUCH easier to swap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
BTW, if you swap the intake manifold, do not use Felpro Printoseal gaskets. They dont hold up in FEs for some reason.

Either the blue Felpro without the silicone ring, Edelbrock or Mr Gasket seem to work well.

If you haven't swapped an FE intake, be ready, the end gaskets can be tricky for some. I glue the end gaskets to the block with weather strip cement, then put RTV on top, and assemble when the RTV is wet.

It allows the manifold to slide on the gasket and not push it out.

Some guys use "Right Stuff" and no end gaskets at all, but a stock iron manifold may have too large of a gap to do that. Look close and be careful because if that back gasket leaks, the car will make a mess that you will regret for a long time

Is there any chance, seeing that you have decided to swap the carb, that you could find an aluminum manifold? MUCH easier to install and all but a few will make a lot more power

For instance, in dyno testing an iron 4 barrel and an Edelbrock Streetmaster, Holley Street Dominator, or Edelbrock RPM has shown 40-50 HP difference at the crank on a 400 hp motor. On yours it would be worth probably 25 and be MUCH easier to swap.
Thanks for the help. I didn't know about the gasket moving around on the manifold. Also I will be pulling the engine this spring or summer so maybe I will find an aluminum manifold by then. Thanks again.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top