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Ok I'm going to tackle this project soon on all four corners and I strayed a little from the original post but here's what I ordered:

1 84 Mustang SVO disk/disk master cylinder
4 75 Impala calipers, two left two right
4 95 Crown Vic rotors (I'll be reusing my original hubs)
4 hubcentric rings. Wheel Hub Centric Rings - buy wheel hub rings online from 1010tires.com
4 18" braided SS brake lines. Brake System Equipment - Longacre Brake Line 18" Long, # 4AN X 3/16 ends
2 banjo fitting kits. GM Caliper to AN Banjo Fitting Kits
4 weld on GM caliper brackets. GM Weld-On Flat Mount Standard Caliper Brackets

I'll be picking up the grade 8 bolts and spacers locally. I'll post up pics and results when I'm done.
 

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Ok, let me start off with saying this post inspired me!! I've been looking for a front disk brake conversion that would be economical and more "unique" than the standard order and install kits that are out there.

With that said I began ordering parts for this conversion, and the biggest challenge is modifying the disk brake brackets. I'm not sure how the original poster used a punch to mark the holes, but I found it impossible to do it that way. Next solution was to spend about 6 hours in the shop Mocking up the system. Well, I finally got it figured out and I'm proud to say everything fits perfectly.

What didn't work from the original post on my 68 mustang.
First I could not use a punch to mark the holes.

Second, a 68 mustang uses 7/16x24 to an4 adapters for the brake lines (not available at speedway).

Third, the 3/4" OD spacer for mounting the brake brackets did not work for the rotors I ordered from speedway motors $29.99 each. The correct spacing was 3/8", not 7/8". Fortunately all the spacers were available at my local ACE hardware, so it was not a big deal.

After doing this conversion I would definately say go for it!! Everything is very structurally sound, and let me tell you, you are getting some really heavy duty brakes for the bucks.

Finally, and probably the best part!! I made a template so all you have to do is mark the brackets, drill the holes, trim off the excess and mount them up!! If anyone would like the template, please let me know, I will email it to you directly, and you will save many hours and simplify the process greatly.
 

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I'm glad it worked out for you, I have been doing this type of brake system for about 10 years now. I use a jig to drill the holes in the brackets.
 

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Great write up and discussion - thank you.
Can anyone tell me if the surface where the lugs are and the wheel is up against is the same distance out on the spindle as the original drum hub? In other words, will my front wheel stance be the same, or a maybe a little narrower or wider?
Thanks Again
 

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I'm glad it worked out for you, I have been doing this type of brake system for about 10 years now. I use a jig to drill the holes in the brackets.

Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the rest of us. As far as Master cylinders go, I'm also installing an 8.8 from a LSC that has 11 inch rotors as well. So it will have 4 wheel disks, non-power. In your experience, what would the best MC be for this application? I've heard 85 SVO? Thank you in advance!
 

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Thank you very much for sharing your experience with the rest of us. As far as Master cylinders go, I'm also installing an 8.8 from a LSC that has 11 inch rotors as well. So it will have 4 wheel disks, non-power. In your experience, what would the best MC be for this application? I've heard 85 SVO? Thank you in advance!

I used the master cyl. for a 76 maverick, as it will work with 4 wheel disc/4 wheel drum /or 2 wheel disc,& 2 wheel drum. It has no residual valve built in, so if you need one, just plumb it in, but with 4 wheel disc you really won't need one with this unit. This is the one I used with my 4 wheel disc & it works great, good pedal & stops with little effort. I also used all new steel braided lines front & back from smiley's racing. Google them & you should be able to find them & they will be the cheapest that I found to have the lines & fittings that I needed.
 

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Awesome write up! My question is this: will the stock steel hubcap wheels from my 1966 fairlane 500 fit with this upgrade?
 

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I know this is an old thread but I have a question... Currently have manual drums with dual resivoir master on my 68 with stock distribution block. I also have a distribution block from a 73 disc/drum maverick, is the maverick distribution block what I need to use? Thanks in advance
Ryan
 

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Hate to revive such an old thread but the guy who had templates appears to no longer be active from what I saw. Anyone else have any?
 

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This is misleading thread because to use this on a mustang the bearing on granada are different the inner alone is 1/8" to big
He said right up-front the original bearings are used - not Granada. The inner diameters are different, but the outer diameters are the same as Granada, and that's why they work in these rotors. I do not see any misleading here, but I have noticed you have been firing-off a lot of posts all the sudden, with errors in several of them. I'm not trying to be confrontational, but I am suggesting you slow it down a hair so we don't have misunderstandings.
:tup:
David
 

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I know this is an old thread but I have a question... Currently have manual drums with dual resivoir master on my 68 with stock distribution block. I also have a distribution block from a 73 disc/drum maverick, is the maverick distribution block what I need to use?

Thanks in advance
Ryan
Just to clarify (yes, I have nothing to do). There is a huge difference between a distribution block and a combination valve.
 

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I installed a rotor on the spindle, and placed the caliper on the rotor with the brake pads in place, making sure there was clearance between the caliper and the rotor. I applied a small amount of air pressure through the brake fitting opening so the piston would clamp down on the rotor, and I used a transfer punch to mark the holes in the plate. The shoulder is 1 1/8" in diameter and 1/4" high.
I know this is an old thread, but just to help anyone who may be attempting this. I was having trouble seeing how I would use the transfer punch when the disc is in the way. Then I noticed the lug stud lines up directly with the bottom hole in the spindle. I took the lug stud out of the disc, pushed the transfer punch through the hole in the rotor, and punched the bracket while it was clamped in place. I then took the bracket over drilled that hole and remounted the bracket (without the disc) to the spindle using a bolt in the single hole. This let me line up the punch for the top hole. BTW my car is a 70 Mustang vin F
 

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Hi, never done this before, but I am going to convert my 68 Mustang to front disc for sure using this plan. I'd like to do all 4 wheels. Anyone have similar type plan on what to do for rear?

Also, can I get a copy of that template for the bracket at [email protected]? Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi, I am attempting your disc brake conversion on a 68 mustang. Quick question, did you mount the calipers on the front side (left side of rotor facing driver's side) of the rotor or back side (right side next to door when facing driver's side) of the rotor. Does it matter? I think I will have to mount on front side. Also, did you use splash shields? What year, make, model? Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi, never done this before, but I am going to convert my 68 Mustang to front disc for sure using this plan. I'd like to do all 4 wheels. Anyone have similar type plan on what to do for rear?
The brackets used are actually rear-axle disc caliper brackets, modified for use on the front. You may want to read the article again to see how that's done.
Also, can I get a copy of that template for the bracket at [email protected]? Thanks in advance.
There is no template - they are purchased brackets. You can find them at many racing outlets, such as Speedway, LeftHander, and other online sources. Likewise, the rear brakes can be done in a similar fashion.

David
 

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... Quick question, did you mount the calipers on the front side (left side of rotor facing driver's side) of the rotor or back side (right side next to door when facing driver's side) of the rotor. Does it matter?
If you look at photo #10, you will see the left (driver's) spindle, and he mounted the caliper in the leading or forward position. Also note the caption with that photo, that states the calipers are used on opposite sides. This allows air to be bled from them properly.
Also, did you use splash shields? What year, make, model? Thanks in advance.
He did not, but a universal set or appropriately-sized factory set could be modified to fit with some effort.

David
 

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OK, got this mod installed. Looks, great with my 14" torque thrust wheels. The good, seems to be operating properly with some concerns. I replaced old MC with new OEM for now since Autozone had it on the shelf. I was going to go with the Maverick, but they didn't have it on the shelf. To achieve strong stopping power, I have to give a second pump, first pump will slow car, but second stops it. I was not able to remove the proportioning valve from the MC that I had seen recommended somewhere on here, couldn't get it out without damaging, but I think they had to do with drag on the disc calipers. Not my concern currently.

I thought my problem was air in the system. I bench bled the new MC then manually bled the system as well as gravity drained too. While hooking clear rubber tubes to the bleeder screws and draining I see no air escaping. Could it be there is air somewhere in the system that just hasn't made it down yet when bleeding. Don't get me wrong, the car stops better now than before. As a newbie, I am just not sure if my expectations are too high for a manually braked car after never driving anything, but power brake boosted cars. Does it sound like I have an issue, or is this the best I should expect with current front disc and rear drum on a 68 mustang? One pump slow and will slowly eventually stop car, the second pump stops strong. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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... To achieve strong stopping power, I have to give a second pump, first pump will slow car, but second stops it.
Good function after pumping is a sure sign of something "giving". Usually it's air in the system. Sometimes it is other parts flexing or expanding, such as bad brake hoses, or flexing brackets or calipers. It is commonly a simple mis-adjustment or air in the rear brake system, causing the pedal to effectively bottom-out without the second pump.

I would first do the "other" inspections, with a buddy repeatedly pressing the brake pedal, and you under there watching and carefully feeling for bulging, flexing, or other odd stuff. Any motion or movement means a lot in braking systems. If no joy, I would then verify all areas that air can be trapped are purged. For example, this means verifying that the internal bleeder path in each caliper bore is actually at the highest point - a common issue with swaps.

If there is a friendly shop or well-equipped car club member nearby, have them test the line pressure at each wheel to find which circuit is spongy or lazy. Try reverse bleeding if necessary, and re-bleed your MC if nothing else is getting it. Remove the calipers, insert a block, and bleed them at various angles if necessary. Analyze the system carefully and get creative! Sometimes, this is like "Where's Waldo?", and it will be obvious when you finally 'see' it. Have patience - you'll find it.
:tup:
David
 
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