Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

61 - 64 of 64 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Remove the calipers, insert a block, and bleed them at various angles if necessary.
David
Might have to do this----I have to do it on my 59 Elky with caddy calipers in the back.

When mounted the bleeder cavity is not at the top so the calipers need to removed and rotated back before they will bleed.

(I hate Caddy calipers---have to adjust the parking brake before they can be properly bled)

Sometimes getting the air out of the lines can be an issue as well.
I generally have issues with the master cylinders. Has you master been properly bench bled??? If not it may never work right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Ok, let me start off with saying this post inspired me!! I've been looking for a front disk brake conversion that would be economical and more "unique" than the standard order and install kits that are out there.

With that said I began ordering parts for this conversion, and the biggest challenge is modifying the disk brake brackets. I'm not sure how the original poster used a punch to mark the holes, but I found it impossible to do it that way. Next solution was to spend about 6 hours in the shop Mocking up the system. Well, I finally got it figured out and I'm proud to say everything fits perfectly.

What didn't work from the original post on my 68 mustang.
First I could not use a punch to mark the holes.

Second, a 68 mustang uses 7/16x24 to an4 adapters for the brake lines (not available at speedway).

Third, the 3/4" OD spacer for mounting the brake brackets did not work for the rotors I ordered from speedway motors $29.99 each. The correct spacing was 3/8", not 7/8". Fortunately all the spacers were available at my local ACE hardware, so it was not a big deal.

After doing this conversion I would definately say go for it!! Everything is very structurally sound, and let me tell you, you are getting some really heavy duty brakes for the bucks.

Finally, and probably the best part!! I made a template so all you have to do is mark the brackets, drill the holes, trim off the excess and mount them up!! If anyone would like the template, please let me know, I will email it to you directly, and you will save many hours and simplify the process greatly.
Hello my I would love to have a copy of your template. I have a 68 that I would like to do this on. please send it to [email protected] Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
First off, great article and thread. I have recently gotten around to converting my 67 mustang to disk and I used this as a guide. However, I am having an issue of not having hardy any stopping power. I have bled the brakes several times with no change. I've bled brakes before without issue so I don't think that's the reason. But when looking back over the install I notice there was a large gap between the back of the caliper bracket and the mounting surface of the caliper. I know as brakes wear the gap increases but it seems to be a lot to start with.


I used 1"spacers already. Any ideas? Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
First off, great article and thread. I have recently gotten around to converting my 67 mustang to disk and I used this as a guide. However, I am having an issue of not having hardy any stopping power. I have bled the brakes several times with no change. I've bled brakes before without issue so I don't think that's the reason. But when looking back over the install I notice there was a large gap between the back of the caliper bracket and the mounting surface of the caliper. I know as brakes wear the gap increases but it seems to be a lot to start with.


I used 1"spacers already. Any ideas? Thoughts?
I know this is an old thread but I wanted to add my experiences with this swap as possible aid to someone with the problem noted above. I followed the swap details with the Impala calipers, Granada rotors, speedway brackets and 75 maverick non-power master cylinder. I originally used my original 65 manual drum master cylinder PUSHROD. I bled and bled and bled the brakes and could not get a good pedal. It would go to the floor on the first pump and you had to pump to get a pedal. I looked at multiple posts about brake bleeding,etc. Then I noticed in NPD's catalog that they recommend an adjustable master cylinder pushrod with a modified attachment to the pedal on all manual disk brake conversions. So I fabricated an adjustable brake pushrod. With a little bit of extension of the pushrod I now have a very firm pedal and very good brakes! I did not add a proportioning valve but after research about how it keeps the backs from locking in a panic stop I may. I did add a 10 lb residual valve to rears.


Also I will add that I got rebuilt calipers from my local parts store and that was probably a mistake as I did not have any cores. By the time I paid the core charge I could have had new calipers. This swap is still much cheaper than many of the swaps on the market but you need to be able to do some fabrication. If you can't fabricate an adjustable master cylinder pushrod the one NPD sells is about $50.
 
61 - 64 of 64 Posts
Top