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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was changing distributors and went and dropped the oil pump drive into the sump on my cleveland...not happy! but a friend has a oil pump drive for a windsor, it looks the same.

1) so is it the same as the windsor?

2) anyone see any problems with leaving the dropped oil pump drive in the sump?
 

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The oil pump shaft of a Cleveland is larger than a Windsor shaft. The end will not fit the distibutor. It lacks the strength and possibly the length of the correct shaft. Here are some potential problems:

The width of a Cleveland shaft is greater than a Windsor. The oiling system on Clevelands are not as efficient as that of a Windor. The oil pump that is required for a Cleveland puts a heavier load on the shaft. The Winsor shaft would twist under the that pressure. I have both a Cleveland and a Windor motor. I would not recommend using parts from a Windsor. Although the Cleveland is considered a 'small block' is was in fact developed from a big block platform. The Cleveland distributor is shared with the 429 and 460 which are big blocks.

I must say that you 'must not' leave the shaft in the oil pan. If you did, engine failure would be inevitable


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: marzz22 on 10/23/06 6:23am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: marzz22 on 10/23/06 2:34pm ]</font>
 

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Oil pump drive is NOT and expensive part ... get a nice correct new one and forget it.

Since I have a 351C short block on a stand not 15 feet from me as I type I can tell you that rod comes through right next to the couterweight on the front of the crank ... if the lost shaft fell to the BOTTOM of the pan ... you may be fine for years ... if not ... All bets are off.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 10/23/06 8:18am ]</font>
 

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351C and Windsor are the same size shaft. I don't know what marrzz22 is talking about. A 302 and 351C/W are very different.

Don't leave it in the pan! Drop the pan and dig it out of there.
 

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yeah i dont think id be happy just leaving it to move around down there in the pan-sounds like a disaster would be waiting to happen,as for using a w shaft in a c,i havent got a cleveland shaft handy to compare them but i know you can use a w distributor in a c with a change of gear on it so the shaft has to fit in the end....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well i'll take the windsor shaft with me to the shops and compare it to the cleveland ones they have there, i realise i'm only talking about a $5 part but hey that could be my lunch!

The shaft is lying flat on the bottom of the sump next to the pick up at the deepest section of the sump...i would have thought it would be safe down there unless i hit a huge pothole or gutter?

I realise i should pull the sump off but i'm lazy....
 

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I believe that there is a difference in the length of the Cleveland shaft - but I could be wrong I know the Cleveland deck height is less than the Windsor but that may not mean the shaft is shorter - then again it might be. If being lazy is worth wrapping that oil pump drive shaft around a journal costing you thousands of dollars in damage then go ahead and leave it in there. You can try draining your oil and using a magnet to get the shaft to the drain hole. Then you might be able to get it out with a pair of needle nosed pliers. Then all it costs you is 5 quarts of oil and the engine is about due for an oil change anyway. A little too much high RPM windage and that shaft can be lifted right off the floor of that pan just like the oil is. A windage tray could prvent that but if you had a windage tray on the motor it would never make it to the bottom of the pan anyway - you would HAVE TO pull the pan and the windage tray.
When you put the new shaft in, be sure to install the retaining clip so it won't come out when you pull the distributor the next time too.
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay point taken, i've just purchased a little telescopic thingy with a magnet on the end and gonna try fish it out through the sump plug hole
 

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how do you put the new shaft (with washer collar) in without removing the oil pan & oil pump?
 

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On 2006-10-23 18:33, igo1090 wrote:
how do you put the new shaft (with washer collar) in without removing the oil pan & oil pump?
u don't..........
 

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On 2006-10-23 14:22, 351ciofgrunt wrote:
Okay point taken, i've just purchased a little telescopic thingy with a magnet on the end and gonna try fish it out through the sump plug hole
I would be careful using the little telescopic thingy if is a cheapie one. those little telescopic thingies have a tendency of seperating from the magnet thingy and you may lose it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
On 2006-10-23 19:29, sevenlitrestang wrote:
On 2006-10-23 18:33, igo1090 wrote:
how do you put the new shaft (with washer collar) in without removing the oil pan & oil pump?
u don't..........
just dont put the clip on...

at the end of the year i'll be freshening the engine anyway and then i'll put the clip on

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 351ciofgrunt on 10/24/06 11:10am ]</font>
 

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not putting the clip on is what probably caused this whole problem to begin with.

drop the pan, & pump, put the clip on the shaft & install it properly. then the next time you remove the dist you wont dislodge the shaft AGAIN.

jmho
 
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