[Cman]

I picked up my rebuilt kit and shift kit for my C4 tranny on the weekend. I had asked the guy for low and reverse friction clutch plates only as I wish to use them in the forward drum also. From what I remember the low and reverse clutches have grooves in the lining and the clutches I got have a solid lining.

He told me that these were a newer type of material and are better than the low and reverse friction linings and that I should use them in the forward drum and the low and reverse drum. Does this sound right? I called and mentioned it to him and he has no problem taking these back and exchanging them for low and reverse clutches only (with the grooves).

PS I told him what my tranny will be handling AFA the hp and torque that I’m building with “project sleeper” and from our discussion he was to supply me with all heavy duty parts for my rebuild.

 

[windsoreight]

It does sound right. I am running the red Alto clutches in both the direct drum and the forward drum. These are the only clutch packs in the c-4. The stock style for the direct drum are grooved. For real performance you could go with the blue clutches and kolene steels, but that can get pricey. I have not had a problem with just the red clutches

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: windsoreight on 1/15/02 8:17am ]</font>

 

[Cman]

So I should keep the clutches I already got (not grooved) and not worry about the low and reverse clutches (which are grooved) yes?

 

[windsoreight]

yep just make sure all your clearences are ok and lightly cross sand the outside of the direct drum with a scoth brite pad or very light sand paper. Also did you weld up the peanut holes on the forward drum? This is the weak part of the c4.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: windsoreight on 1/15/02 8:23am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: windsoreight on 1/15/02 8:24am ]</font>

 

[Cman]

thanks windsoreight for the info. I still have to call him since he forgot to supply me with a extension housing seal (where the d/s goes in) and I didn't realize that the overrunning clutch wasn't in the rebuilt kit so I will be getting that too. I also have new steel plates to go with the friction material. Can't wait to start tearing into that C4 tranny from my parts car.

 

[windsoreight]

You might also want to get a thrust washer kit and a bushing kit. They are not always worn but it is nice to replace them for a nice tight trans. But make sure you change the pump bushing and locktite it and the front seal in.

 

[gregaust]

You have the right idea but the terminology is a bit mixed up.The forward clutch hub is actually the one towards the rear of the trans and the direct or high/reverse hub is at the front.
By the sounds of it you have the correct clutches and are on the right track.What you want is a full set (10)of the flat clutches that are normally used in the forward clutch hub.The idea is that these clutches are only approx .061" thick so you can fit more clutches.Use these clutches in both hubs.
The grooved plates that are normally used in the direct clutch are approx .078" thick so you cant fit as many in.
I don't want to upset anyone but i have to disagree on the sanding 'across' the direct drum.What you need to do is sand around the drum with a fine emery tape to clean it up.You want it with a fairly smooth finish.
Definitely replace at least the front pump bush and the rear extension housing bush as these are prone to heavy wear.
Make sure your endfloat is kept to a minimum around .010",and keep the clutch pack clearances to a min also.You prob already know this anyway...GOOD LUCK.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gregaust on 1/15/02 6:18pm ]</font>

 

[windsoreight]

I disagree but there a dozens of way to build transmissions. In the 15 years I have been doing it I always, even in everyday cars lightly cross sand the drums with a band. I use scotch brite so it is very fine. But it is like resurfacing a brake rotor. In my opinion it gives a better shift feel. Every builder does it different but, in my expirence cross sanding makes a big difference. I have not had one complaint yet.

 

[Just Strokin]

Another trick/tip/BS??? is to use the C6 pump bushing in a C4 pump. It is a little wider than the C4 bushing. I have been doing this for years now.

 

[gregaust]

Thanks for the tip J.S. I had heard of that mod and thought that was the bush to use but now i know for sure....Thanks again.

 

[89 coupe]

You mean the pump to converter snout bushing??

 

[gregaust]

That's the one.Kent ,have a look in the c4/c10 article i sent, mentions the wider pump bush...