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i HAVE A 88GT Mustang and the clutch quadrant wont stay locked in and pedal is all the way to the floor before it disengages, before I go out and spend a bunch of money on adjustable cable and billet quadrant I would like to know what brand to not buy and what is the better brand to buy. It is just a stock clutch so it has no pedal pressure. Old cable looks fine just ran out of adjustment, and quadrant wont latch in any more.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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I bought the Summit aluminum quadrant and adjustable cable. I have a FMS heavy duty clutch. The quadrant wasn't that hard to put in. The hardest part was breaking off the last little plastic piece. Then the aluminum one slides on and put the cotter pins back in and put the cable on. Then the adjustment is at the clutch fork, just have someone in the car to measure the toe play while you adjust the bolts.

So far the clutch feels lighter than stock, and also feels more solid. No flex or mushyness in the pedal. I can feel the clutch engaging. Much better.
 

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The stock quadrant in your 88 is "self adjusting" It is supposed to work by pulling up on the clutch and the spring adjusts the clutch. They don't work very well. You can do 1 of 2 things. First the cheap route - you can manually force a greater tension on your clutch with the stock setup. There are 2 plastic pieces that adjust the stock clutch. One is a 1/4 of a gear looking thing, the other had a 1/4 of a gear and has a hook on the end (this is the one you can see if you look under there) By engadging the cluch to the floor while you reach under the dash and hold the piece of plastic that has the hook on it, hold it to the floor as best as you can, with the other hand pull the clutch all the way up. You'll hear it click. There you go, tighter clutch!
If you have the time do it right and get the adjustable quadrent from Summit. Pain in the ass to do though because you really need to drop the steering column and remove the brake clutch assembly, and the drivers seat.
 

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Actually you don't have to take steering column down or remove any pedal assemblies. I did remove my driver seat however. But that's only 4 bolts, not hard at all. The quadrant is actually just above the brake pedal close to the gas pedal linkage.

Unhook the cable from the clutch fork by the bellhousing. Unscrew the cable from the firewall under the hood. Take the drivers seat out, sit on the floor, lean down to the right and look up under the dash.
Remove the cotter pins and pull the quadrant off. There's little plastic piece you may have to snap off but that's OK, with an aluminum quadrant you won't need it. Slide the aluminum one on the shafts, replace the cotter pins, hook the cable onto the qaudrant.
The new one will come with instructions also with pictures. My Summit kit instructions were very detailed.

I'm 6'2" and 280 pounds. If I can squeeze my big ass in there to do the job, I'm sure you can... unless you're bigger than me...
_________________
1989 White GT convertable 5-speed
K&N, Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax, MSD coil, FMS wires and HD clutch,
BBK Headers, Flex-a-lite fan, Cobra 1.7 roller rockers, ported heads

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: SawBones25 on 4/11/02 7:37am ]</font>
 

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I've always heard good things about the Forte's unit.

BBK unit I've heard mostly good, a few bad mostly for the cable itself.

Steeda is fine as well.

After that
 

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Well, I'm kinda late reading your question, but I'll let you know that I am perfectly happy with my Forte unit. It uses the stock cable, has a firewall adjuster, and installs easily once the old plastic piece of 'garbage' is convinced to leave. Definitely take out the driver's seat for clearance. The rest of the install is easy. I do some bracket racing with my car, and the clutch pedal feel is very good. Simple and effective. That's the Forte unit.
Check out this url: http://www.fortesparts.com/quadrant.html
 
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