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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
'65 XL with the stock 352.
If I use the car every day, she fires right up in the morning.
If the car sits for more than 3 or 4 days I have to crank the engine a long time before she'll start.
I assume all the gas is leaving the carb.
What can I do to fix this ?
Thanks!

RR
 

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Fixing the leaks in the carb, will fix your problem...

Gas can't "leave" the carb... It can evaporate (over time but not a week or less), but only if there's a lot of air flow and there shouldn't be any if the car's not moving...

What happens when you pump the throttle twice before cranking?

Have you ever let it sit for a week and taken off the air cleaner then working the throttle by hand to see if the accelerator pump is working at that point in time?

If not then you have a leak in the carb... That's the <U>only </U>available and logical answer that I can come up with.

If the fuel drains back to the level in the fuel tank, it will still not "drain" the carb, it cannot drain the carb becasue the carb does not fill in a syphonning manner, therefore it cannot drain that way.


FE
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I tend to agree that there's a leak.
Though I see no external leakage.
Is this common on an older carb?
I have no idea when or if it's ever been rebuilt.
It's also been suggested to me that the fuel is "boiling off" from the heat of the motor after I shut it down. Kind of a vapor lock idea, except in the fuel bowl instead of the fuel line.
Thoughts ?

RR


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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: RacingRob on 9/29/06 6:57am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The car has the original 1965, 352 with whatever 4bbl carb that came stock. I could get a number off the carb tag if it would help.
I do smell gas after running the car, but only if I go under the hood and sniff around the carb.
If the gas was boiling off, wouldn't I have the problem the very next day?
As soon as the engine cooled, the gas would stop evaporating.
It wouldn't take 3--4 days to empty the bowl.
I'm thinking either a replacement carb or a rebuild is called for.
I'd really like to stick with the stock carb for now .

RR
 

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I have similar problem with my Falcon. There the fuel pump is pooping out. The fuel which is held within the 5/16" line, filter, etc. will overnight drain back down to the lowest point. The fuel pump. The Out valve in the pump is going weak, and will permit fuel to flow in either direction. Thus whatever is above the pump cannot be held up much longer.

In morning, I have to run the choke a good 10-20 seconds longer to provide a hard suction and get the fuel up to the carb. It then flows fast enough for the day's run.

With your V-8 the pump is higher than mine, and you have larger capacity fuel bowls. Put a pressure gauge on the pump to see what it registers. It may only be 1-3 pounds pressure now. If you want to get going right away, w/o cranking, dump a capfull of gasoline down the throat, that will amke it catch right away, and then hopefully the pump can get going a few seconds earlier for you.

Oh, and to check the float level when a leak is suspicioned, just remove one of the lower bolts. Ought to cause a flood of gasoline then. I have a squirt bottle holding gasoline in which I load up the bowls via the vents, before firing off the motorhome. Fill them up, start it up, and the the pump gets with it before the bowls empty out.



Wm.
 

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Mine always drains back from where the fuel line attaches to the carb for some reason. Even if I ran it 20 mins earlier. New lines new fuel pump and new carb. But I only have trouble starting it after a few days if I don't pump it 3 or 4 times before trying to start it. Once it's warmed up I dont' need to touch the gas. Well I did before I put the phenolic spacer on there. Had to hold it to the floor because it was flooded from percolating the gas.

You mentioned the fuel boiling. An easy way to test that, or it's how I found the problem. Is after you've driven it and are home, shut it off and open the hood and listen. You'll hear the hissing like water drops hitting a hot skillet. Or if you take the air filter off you can see puffs of like steam vapors like a smoke trail coming out of the carb. I dont' know if they all act the same, that's just what mine did.

Some cars just need to be pumped a certain amount of times before attempting to start them. I had one that if you did more or less than 3 it was a bear to start. It was ok if it died and you pumped 3 more times, just not more or less. It was posessed I think.


Deb
 

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Your car can boil out the fuel but I don't think that's what happening.....

Drive it and do the Shotrod test, listen and look for fuel percolating into the intake... Smelling gas is ok because the bowls are vented...

Or do this. Start up the car... When it get's running shut it off before it get's hot! Then wait 3 or 4 day's and see if it still tries to NOT start...

If it don't it's likely a bonified leak (if the fuel is gone)... But it won't be gone from boil out, it will be gone from a leak. Like I said, the fuel cannot syphon out of the bowls and if cool it cannot evaporate in 4 day's.

Your 352 should start and run for at least 60 seconds on a half full carb, There must be another reason for the slow start. You must tell us if there is any fuel in the dang carbs at those times before you try to start it.

You know... Maybe you only need plugs....


FE
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys!
I'll do some checking this afternoon.
I did drive the car yesterday, so I assume starting wont be a problem.
I'll do the start and shut down while the engine is still cool test.
Thanks!

RR
 

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Pull the carb and look for leakage into the throttle shafts too, when you shut it off the pressure in the bowl rises and can push fuel through the little gasket around the power valve into the baseplate, and can also drip through the annular boosters (a drawback of this style). As the float level drops the needle and seat opens and accepts fuel from your pressurized line until it drops below the point where the pressure is insufficient to feed fuel. The hotter it is when you shut it off, the more exagerrated the effect will be. And as we enter the transitional season, every cool morning is going to be hard starting because of the seasonal adjustment of volitility.

The best fix is to kit it and replace all of the seals, and run a regulator with a bypass to go back to the tank. And if you have a manual choke, close it if you are parking it for a few days.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's the stock OEM carb and the automatic choke still works well.
Aren't there places I could send my carb out to to have it rebuilt/reconditioned?
Can anyone recomend someplace?
Thanks

RR
 

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There's Pony carbs but i've heard mixed reviews about them. If it were me I'd see if there might be a local carb place that can do it. Putting a kit in is really easy and the most complete kit I've found was from Autozone for the stock shoebox carb 4100. Napa you have to buy the rear bowl and diaphram stuff seperate when you buy the kit.

Deb
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm sure I could do the rebuild myself, but I'd really like to be able to have it gone over by someone that does it all the time.
Do the rebuild kits come with throttle shaft bushings?
Also, the only way to really clean them up is to let them soak in carb cleaner. I can't see buying a bucket of that stuff for the one time I'll ever use it.
Thanks,

RR
 

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I don't blame ya there on the cleaner. Yeah most kits have the shaft bushings also. Can't remember if the one I bought did or not specifically though. I've never used them. Usually my problems were the accelerator pump leaking til the last time and didn't want to spend the cash on sending the carb off so went to autozone and bought a new rebuilt for $149 w/core exchange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've never owned a car that is as original as this one. Everything appears to be original. I think I'll do a bit of research and have my carb rebuilt.
Even though I'm going the rest-mod route, I plan to keep all the stock parts that I remove in case I want to return it to stock in the future.
Thanks!

RR
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm getting conflicting results.
I let the car sit for a couple days, and when I looked down the carb, I was getting a shot of gas when I worked the throttle.
I'm gonna let it sit till Wed. and see what happens.
I may take you up on your offer of a rebuild!
Thanks!

RR
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Looks like I've been shooting myself in the foot!
The previous owner told me, no matter what you do, don't give it gas upon cold start up, she'll flood. He said just hit the gas enough to set the choke.
I let her sit for a couple days, looked down the carb, gave it gas and was rewarded with a couple good strong streams of gas.
Did the same today after sitting a few more days.
So I get in, give her 2 good pumps on the gas pedal and she fires right up!
Guess it was my own fault for not questioning the previous owners reasoning.
Thanks for all the suggestions and offers of help.

RR
 
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