[ValveTubeHead]

I've just received my fresh crate short block 306 ready to go...It came with standard Main Bolts...however, my canton windage tray uses ARP Main Studs for mounting.

Should I worry about tolerances of the main cap bearings when converting to main studs???

The block was already align honed with bolts...the studs will have additional clamping force...ARP recommends align honing after installing Main Cap studs.

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/products/pages/mainbolts/links/how_to.html

 

[89 coupe]

On a 351W or 429/460 you don't need to line hone the mains becaust the bottem end webbing and caps are much larger/thicker so they don't distort enough to warrant line honing after stud installation but a 302 has a much weaker bottom eng that distorts easier with the extra clamping force. I would suggest you get it line honed again but then again it may not be a problem. If it were a 351 or big block, I'd say hell no don't wast your money or time. Just throw the studs in and forget about it but a 302 is a different story. They aren't as forgiving.

 

[RPM]

When I had my 393w machine work done, the machinist wanted the new studs I was going to use. They probably know what they're doing, have it align honed again.

 

[89 coupe]

If you're going to have it align honed, then that's the time to put the studs in but if it's done already with stock main bolts and then you decide to use main studs it's alright on a 351W and 460 block to do that and not have the mains re-align honed but a 302 is a different story. Those flex much more just from the added clamping force of main studs.

 

[ValveTubeHead]

Thanks for the insight.

Somebody must make a set of special Main bolts for mounting windage trays. Anyone know who?

Probably the easiest solution.

From my old SVO catalog, looks like ford motorsport windage tray used special main bolts tapped in bolt head for windage attachment bolts.

I'm not terribly keen tearing down an engine thats already been built for me...potentially repeating machine work.

 

[ValveTubeHead]

Wonder where I can get these bolts without the tray?

http://www.mpgheads.com/blackmax.htm

 

[67stang]

those bolts with the extended threaded portion off the head are nothing special. They are stock 5.0L main bolts. See 5.0L engines (in Mustangs and such) used a double sump oil pan with the pickup tube being extended to the back sump. This tube is mounted to one of the main bolts, using this special main bolt.

So all 5.0L engines have one main bolt of this type.

All you'd really need to do is find a machine shop or go to a pick and pull and get the number of these you need. Just a little labor involved.

As for studs... i would not hesitate. The only reason the machine shop asked for the studs is because they need to align hone the mains with the caps torqued in place. A good machine shop will do this with the studs or bolts provided. If you didnt provide any, and the machine shop was not overly experienced, theyd just round up a set of bolts and hone it. In any case it is "ideal" to have honing done with the fasteners you plan to use, but in reality so long as the caps are torqued properly the honing will be fine...the tolerances are pretty minimal.

 

[Mario428]

My brother runs a 351W with a Canton windage tray(nice piece) and he uses bolts. The Canton tray came with some bolts if I remember correctly.
It just uses the stock Ford bolt with the 3/4 inch of 5/15 thread sticking out of it. Common item for any rear sump application.