Ok, maybe you people can help me..I have a 427 small block, with aluminum heads single plane intake (cooled), cooled rear cylinders, Ceramic coated headers, EZ_EFI . It seems to constantly want to run about 215 (no a/c on),as well as running rich, I has a 3 row radiator,High capacity 1" tubes,Edelbrock high Volume water pump, serpentine reverse flow, cooled intake, 160 degree t-stsat, and a dual fan 4000 CFM. All fluids are perfectly clean, running 50/50 coolant, with lucas cooling additive...This engine has rollers, lifters and rockers. Comp cams HP camshaft..Pretty sure the timings right on, kinda marginal on the Vacuum, adding pump next week. WHY? can't I get this thing to stay Much Cooler,,I think it should stay about 180 degrees, don't know what else to do..Is this good for this motor to run at these temps 215 all the time? HELP!!!!!!
Cooling Issue 427 Small block ford
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Those are good responses. Let me add a couple more -
Please answer everyone's questions.
David
- Have you tested the temperature with a 2nd or even 3rd gauge to verify you actually have those temps?
- What do you mean by the timing is right on? What is it at idle, WOT and cruise?
- Why is it still running rich?
Please answer everyone's questions.
David
The radiator is (just the radiator portion) 26" wide, 18" tall 3 1/2" thick,
Shrouded fans Dual, 4000 CFM, 26x18x3 thick.
Shrouded fans Dual, 4000 CFM, 26x18x3 thick.
- Have you tested the temperature with a 2nd or even 3rd gauge to verify you actually have those temps? Yes the temp sender for the Ez-efi shows about 212/214 at Idle, the temp on the gauge use(autometer) shows about 170.
- What do you mean by the timing is right on? What is it at idle, WOT and cruise? The timing at idle is between 12 and 15, don't know a WOT or cruise.
- Why is it still running rich? Ez-efi says that with the CAm I am running the vacuum is to low, need to add vacuum pump.Tehy told me that low vacuum was the cause.
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It would help if you install a air blead in the water pump impeller cavity or have the engine vacuum filled. SBFs on fill the impeller cavity a bit over half full. This causes cavitation and lowers water flow.
That radiator should do the trick, can we assume its new?. It has to be a air issue. What size fans? Are they pushing or pulling (pulling I hope)? Have you checked rotation of both fans. I would also like to see some real time amp numbers on the fans. Lets see some pics.
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Why do you think the autometer guage is wrong and not the computer?..The setup you have should be more than enough to cool your engine..What are the temps when you are idleing vs going down the road at highway speeds(how much does it vary)?
Yes the radiator is new, Hi volume edebrock pump,it has two 13.5 " fan
They are offset low/high in corners, they are both pullers, they are both rotating the same direction and the definitely move air, lots, Sounds like a blower when they are both running...lol...FAns pull 28 amps at start, run at about 25/26. I posted 3 motor pictures in an album..
They are offset low/high in corners, they are both pullers, they are both rotating the same direction and the definitely move air, lots, Sounds like a blower when they are both running...lol...FAns pull 28 amps at start, run at about 25/26. I posted 3 motor pictures in an album..
Yes, I think the sender is not correct resitance for that gauge. The sender fo0r the gauge is located in the manifold and the sensor for tha computer is located at the t-stat housing, I think the temp would be accurate at the housing and not the manifold, but there should not be that much difference, it shows on the gauge to run at about 170 to 180 at idle, and it has gone as high as 240 on the gauge, computer still shows 215 @ 55/60.So i am pretty sure the sender is crap...lol.. but up in the 200's is still to hot even with EFI
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Guys, do you think his 160 thermostat is opening to soon?
I know i switched out a 160 for a 180 thermo & this did the trick, bringing my temp down about 15-20 degrees, my theory is- allowed the coolant to stay in the rad longer, allowing the rad to do its job, before it ciculated to the motor.
Changing the thermo from a 160 to a 180 was the only thing i did & saw a big change in cooling. I guess, the original 160 thermostat could have been sticking, but, i like my theory better!
I know i switched out a 160 for a 180 thermo & this did the trick, bringing my temp down about 15-20 degrees, my theory is- allowed the coolant to stay in the rad longer, allowing the rad to do its job, before it ciculated to the motor.
Changing the thermo from a 160 to a 180 was the only thing i did & saw a big change in cooling. I guess, the original 160 thermostat could have been sticking, but, i like my theory better!
your responce to timing right on ....".between 12 and 15" .and "don't know a WOT or cruise"
that's not knowing and Not right on
OK, where it ran the best after install was at 12 1/2 degrees, I did not set the timing for WOT and Cruise. it's only got 800 miles runtime.I am running MSD ignition with dist, and coil, I was not aware that you could adjust the timing while running down the road at WOT or cruise from inside the car. DUH!!! LOL I am aware that you can run the proper rpm for those senarios, by utilizing your throttle and adjusting your timing. But the car is not under load so it may be a bit inaccurate. do not have access to a Dyno to do both at the same time...
whats spinning faster ... a engine reving at 3000 rpm in driveway or one reving 3000 rpm on the interstate
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