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My 351w will finally be ready early next week and I was wondering if someone could help me figure out my approximate hp. I guess I really need to go "hi-tech" and get one of those computer programs (if I could figure it out) Anyway, I'll try to tell you everything I have: 351w bored .030, KB flattop pistons, 10.5 compression, AFR 185 heads(2.02), Comp hyd. cam xtreme energy XE274H, dur @ .050 in. 230, ex. 236, crane 1.6 rockers, Performer rpm intake, Holley 650 HP double pumper Stage 5 by Bigs, Hooker 1 3/4 supercomps, MSD dist & wires, MSD 6AL ignition, march pulleys, electric fan for radiator, canton oil pan, 3.50 gears, 2500 stall, C-4 tranny. What else do you need to know? It's in a '67 fastback. How much hp, and do you think it'll run 12.99? Thanks guys

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67stang351 on 3/17/02 10:35am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67stang351 on 3/17/02 11:51am ]</font>
 

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Hey 67, nice combo, I'm putting together almost the exact same setup except with the World Sr heads. What size exhaust are you gonna run, 2.5 or 3? Also, who makes your stall converter? The hp estimates that I've gotten are more like 415-420 but I still think you'll be in the 12's no problem. I'd be interested to know how you like it after you drive it.

Brock
 

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I haven't checked lately, but Martel Brothers Racing website used to have a program on line that you could download for free that would predict ET and horsepower. I have used it and found it to be a little optimistic, but not far off. for example it predicts my 67 390 will run 12.15 and it actually ran 12.42.
 

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Brock, I've got a TCI break-a-way converter. Some told me to go with the TCI street fighter but others said it would be too much stall for what I want. Unfortunately, the car may see the drags only once in her life time, just to get an et. My wife & 6 boys (all still in school)take up most of my time (not complaining!)I would like to run 3 inch exhaust, if possible. I've been listening to N20Mike and went with the 3 inch Edelbrock 5525 mufflers & might exit out the side. I'll let you know how she runs.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67stang351 on 3/18/02 2:10am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 67stang351 on 3/18/02 2:51am ]</font>
 

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It's going to be a strong build. The midrange (and resulting burnouts) will be unreal.


As for exhaust... this is what I would do for a cruiser/hotrod/kid hauler.

Run 3" pipe back to the 3" mufflers. Then weld a collector ring to the muffler outlet. This would allow you to swap between tailpipes and turnouts.

The collector ring (the ring with the three bolt holes used to exhaust systems to headers) is the trick.

You can purchase a $99 set of Flowmaster 2.5" mandrel bent tailpipes from Summit, and weld a set of header reducers to them. Weld rings to a set of turnouts as well. This would allow you to easily swap between the two.

The tailpipes will be nice for family cruising, and the turndowns will be great for the track (or when you just want to hear a little more noise.)


A buddy with a camaro (and a family) is going this route. He likes the sound of 3" pipe and dumps, but the wife and kids prefer to not have their heads rattled at stoplights.
3" pipe dumped right at the axle doesn't sound all that loud riding down the road, but it will rattle your head at idle.

With a sticky set of tires, I guarantee the car will run 12's. It sounds like a great combo. You'll have some serious fun with it!

As for a horsepower estimate... plenty. It should easily pump out over 400hp.

Sounds like a FUN car!

Good Luck!

_________________
Mike Burch, 66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads, 10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: n2omike on 3/18/02 6:09am ]</font>
 

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That what i think also. With 430 or 456 gears and a 3500 stall the car should run mid 11's. Using the ford muscle calc on the site and friend of mine mustang at 2940# has ran a best @ 11.34 with a similar setup with not near as good in the heads department.
 

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I'll take your numbers and run them on my dyno 2000 software. i think it may be a little optimistic, but can show the effects of cam change or head flow changes.
 

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On Performance Trends Engine Analyzer it made 433 ft/lbs at 4600 RPM and 430 HP at 6000 RPM if the Biggs carb flows 750 cfm now that it's reworked and through a good 3" exhaust. If your converter stalls in the 2600-2800 RPM range it would work good with the power curve that the Engine Analyzer predicted as it was already up to 350-360 ft/lbs at that RPM but the torque falls off quite rapidly below that point.
 

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Can anyone tell me How much horse power a small block 350 engine bored engine with flat tops and z28 hydrolic cam with small chamber heads that been ported with strip dominator intake would produce? Please help me out I would like to know.
And What carb would you recomend I use?
 

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I would like to step in for a minute on torque converters if I may. I would definitely shy away from any "canned" off-the-shelf torque converter. i.e., TCI, B&M, cheaper Hughes...etc. Investing in a good torque converter is worth it's weight in gold.

First, there is NO way TCI and B&M can stamp "3500rpm" on a converter and guarantee it's actually a 3500rpm stall. That converter in a 6000lb car with a 800hp engine may actually stall at 5000rpm, while the same converter in a Pinto with a 100hp 4cyl may only stall at 1000rpm.

Secondly, the off-the-shelf converters (a) Use GM math (with GM fluid) to calculate stall. (b) The torque multiplication is far inferrior to a quality converter. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5x to 1.9x. (c) They are all typically 12" re-worked stock converters with the fins just bent over.

Finally, a quality, custom built converter will have a SRT (torque multiplication) of 2.2x to 2.4x (you can get up to 2.55x). They are typically smaller in diameter, 9"-10"..meaning you spool up rpm MUCH faster. They use billet snouts. Fins are installed with percision. Internal tolerances are to the nat's @$$. They run cooler....all this adds up to the fact that they hit like a freight train! Custom shops can guarantee a stall rpm to within 50-70rpm.

Two good shops are PI (Precision Industries) and Edge. I just purchased an Edge Performance Street (9.5") for my C4. I dealt with the owner, Andre. Extremely knowledgable, polite, professional guy. He even threw in a master rebuilt kit with Red Alto Clutches, Kolene steels, and kevlar band for 1/2 the price of big-name performance parts companies! The converter itself was $465. You can opt for the "Mild Performance Street" (12") for around $250 I believe - and it's built to your specs!
 
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