Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, all,

The courtesy and glove compartment lights on my '63 vert aren't working (they're the last of the interior lights that I have left to fix!)

I know from my wiring diagram and from reading a few things on the forum that they are both wired through the switches in the doors. Is there a good "first place" to look for a problem? Both bulbs seem to be grounded just fine. Has anyone else had those door switches go bad?

Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
The door switches are easy to check, they should just pop out of the jamb, then you can test for power/continuity thru them. Same way with the glove box door switch. (usually a spritz of contact cleaner will fix them. Or 100% silicone spray will work in a pinch....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the tip, MrO.

FE--that makes perfect sense; I don't know why I thought the power went through there as well. If the switch is bad, would that cause the glovebox light to not be ground correctly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Thanks for the tip, MrO.

FE--that makes perfect sense; I don't know why I thought the power went through there as well. If the switch is bad, would that cause the glovebox light to not be ground correctly?

Not Gary, (FE) but yes....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,853 Posts
It's not a switch, it's a sliding ground... I'mma going to check my diagrams, the Galaxie may be a bit different but I don't see why.

BRB...

OK the 63 seems to be grounded in the glove box and powered when the GBD is opened, this is also the power wire for the Door courtesy lights. See the illustration here in the bottom left of the schematic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
465 Posts
There are some mistakes here in reading the wiring diagram. There is a Grn/Yel wire leaving the fuse block on the headlight switch that is the hot source for the courtesy lights and glove box lamp. The switch on the glove box lamp grounds the lamp when the door is opened. However the door switches do NOT ground the courtesy lamps, but actually pass the +12 v to the lamps when the door is opened and the switch closes.

Check the Grn/Yel wire leaving the fuse block for +12 v. Just check that at the door sws. If no +12 v there then check the fuse and that the wire is connected.

Turning the headlight sw CCW also turns on the dome light if there is one and the courtesy lights.
R
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, everyone, for your help. I'll keep you posted on my progress. I really need to learn how to read those wiring diagrams better. Nothing makes you feel dumb like trying to catch electrical gremlins in a car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Okay, so I bought a circuit tester, hooked the alligator clip to the body of the car (inside door post), and touched the probe to the end of the fuse with the yellow/green wire. The light in the tester didn't light up, but I got sparks. I also checked both the wires at the switches, once grounding the gator clip to the car and touching the probe to both wires, and once connecting the two wires. I got nothing. Am I checking for power right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
I havent seen the diagram (not showing up if its posted for some reason)

Did you test the 'other' side of the fuse the wire uses? If so what was that result? If it lights on the "hot" side of fuse and not on wire side of fuse, the fuse is blown.

I an not sure by description how you are testing. With the glove box door open and the switch pulled you should have power on both sides (according to description FE gave) and to the light socket.

I am confused about the two wires and then the both wires statement.... sorry.... Wiring is hard to post about sometimes...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yes, I tested the other side of the fuse, too. Same sparky result.

I was testing with the glove box door closed and the headlight switch all the way to the left in the "dome light on" position.

Yeah, sorry about that last unclear bit about the door switch. Let me see if I can explain it more clearly: I wasn't sure exactly how to check for power at the switch, so I tried it two different ways. First, I grounded one end of the tester and touched the other end to each of the two wires at the switch, one at a time. Then, I attached the two switch wires to either end of the tester. Both times I got nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
Ok to answer to your second statement/explination first you have a break in the wire someplace. You should have power to one of the wires...

Cant figure why you are just getting sparks and no light with the tester...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
103 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm bumping this thread after a conversation in another thread with Minn64Gal. I haven't done anymore work here (digging around for disconnected wires, etc.) Any ideas where I should look first?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
make sure your tester works. check it at a known source of power
That is a good idea, as he was getting "sparks" before and no light....

Id try it right on the battery, if it poofs not gonna harm anything else, cept maybe a finger...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,786 Posts
I'll try that. Will that blow the lightbulb in the tester, though?
If its a 12v test light no. It will (SUPPOSED to ) light up.... Most testers are 6-12 v tho.( for auto use that is....)
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top