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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just dropped the pan on my transmission to repair the leak where the shift linkage goes through the case. Boy this looks like tough job
What all has to be removed to access the shifter linkage and also where would I get the seals?
 

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Fatsco Transmission Parts. 800-524-0485. They were the only place in the world that I could find a shift kit for my cruis-o. It's all being pulled out tonight so it was money spent unwisely but they specialize in obsolete transmision parts. Good luck.
 

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You will probably have to remove the valve body if I remember right so that it's more visible and easily accessed. There is 2 metal tubes that run from the valve body to another part (don't know my tranny part names) that you pull out after the valve body is loose. Be careful not to bend them. and the filter of course has to be removed but that part is easy to know.


There is a nut on the end of the shifter shaft on the inside, you'll see it once the valve body is out of the way. There is what I call a "rooster comb" on the end of it. Be careful of the spring loaded "bullet" that rides in the detents of the comb, that booger can fly and is the most frustrating part of the whole deal. Keeping it in while getting the comb back on the end of the shaft. You'll be able to see how it all works/goes together.

As for the seals, if you have a trans shop around go to them. That's where I got mine. Mac's might have them but not sure. Be sure to lube the shaft before sliding the o-ring on so it doesn't mess it up. Then with the seal that goes into the case on the outside where the shaft goes in, put just a tiny bit of sealer, atv or ? to be sure it seals good.
I probably have you totally confused but once you have a good look in there it'll make sense. The passing gear shifter slides through the main shifter rod.

Oh and be sure to remember which way the levers are turned when you put it back together so that the gears are all in the right place as far as when you move the shifter.
I also discovered that there is a torque spec for the valve body but didn't know that til after the 3rd time I had mine apart so mine isn't torqued. Maybe someone knows what that is and I can look in the mean time to see if i saved a note for myself.


Deb





<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ShotRod64 on 9/30/06 6:43am ]</font>
 

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Don't remember any check ball. My tranny is working so guess it either never fell out or they were talking about that spring loaded pain in the rear that rides on the detents for the gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Finally got it done. Thanks for the help. There werent any little balls to deal with but that little bullet and spring were a real pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Spoke too soon. I got it back together and found that The tranny will not downshift from 3rd to 2nd over 30 mph. It will however go all the way to 1st up to about 45mph.
Talk about cleaning out the cobwebs! At normal cruising speeds though it will not kick down to 2nd AKA passing gear. Does the vacuum valve also known as the modulator on some trannys have something to do with this? Can it be removed without draining the fluid? I am positive that the kickdown linkage was aligned correctly inside the case but I am not so sure about the pin that goes from the vacuum assembly to the throttle valve. I could not see it well enough to tell.It also seems to shift from first to 2nd too soon and the 2nd to 3rd shift seems to be more sluggish than before I started this
I guess I should have left it alone and lived with the leak
 

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I hate to say it but if you have the dough, put in a C-6 and dump the cruis-o if you aren't bound to it life and limb. I have way more power to the ground with the C-6 we installed on Sunday. Night and day difference between two tranny's and stall convertors that were setup and built to the same spec's. Otherwise if you need any parts I may be able to get them out of the old cruis-o for you...if my brother-in-law hasn't sent it to salvage yet.
 

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You can remove the modulator and only loose a little if any fluid. It just screws on the back of the tranny kind of. You can follow the vacuum tube to it.
There is an adjustment screw in the modulator also just like in the one on the distributor if the new one doesn't shift right.

I told ya that little bullet was a bear! Did you make sure that the lever was correct for what detent the bullet was in? If the modulator doesn't do the trick that could be it also. But think if that were it the lever wouldn't go all the way to park or L probably.

Mine shifts around 20-25 from 1st to 2nd. Don't know if that's correct speed or not but that's what it does. I haven't had the kickdown on mine for a long time. I need to put it back on again. I know there were times I had to stomp the gas a couple times to get it to kick down to second though. But that's how mine always acted regardless of which cruiso I had in it. Never wanted to kick down when I needed it so stomped the pee out of it. If it didn't kick down I was going to kick it forward using the floorboards.


There must be someone in here that knows more about this stuff than I do.


You do sound like me though. Mine was fine the 1st 2 times I had things apart changing levers from floor to column shift and putting in seals. Now it's slow going into reverse and it has to warm up to go into 3rd the first time. After that it's fine. Someone told me that these problems were because all the seals are dried out and once warm they expand and soften to work correctly.

Deb



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ShotRod64 on 10/4/06 7:36am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey gbeeler I think a c-6 is gonna be the way to go and that is the plan when I get the 390 ready. I never did like the way you cant hold the cruiso in2nd. It was working fine though until I decided to fix the leak and just my luck some thing would go wrong
One thing thats unique about the cruiso is that you can push it off like a standard if your starter fails. I never needed that on this car but I drove an old beat up 64 around for 3 months one time without a starter in it
Back then I lived in the mountains and you just had to ride around till you found a parking spot on a hill
 

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Like me finding a place with a dip when I didn't have park and parking just right when I didn't have reverse in a dif car. Bummer it's not working right though. Maybe i was lucky! If a modulator doesn't fix it then it has to be something not in the right place inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well it looks like the modulator was it. I pulled it out and wiped it off and put it right back in.It might be the fresh fluid but it shifts like a new one.Do you remember how much fluid you put in it when you did yours. After seven quarts it wasnt even touching the dipstick.I added one more and the damn thing is now about an inch over full
I guess Ill drain a little out tommorow and call it done.
 

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Woohooo!! Glad to hear that worked!!

They hold like 10 or 11 when empty but think that includes the torque converter. So you should be getting close!!

Deb

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ShotRod64 on 10/5/06 12:49pm ]</font>
 
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