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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been reading some posts here and would like to post my combo here for your opinions / best guess-timates. This engine is almost finished, has not been fired off, will not see an engine dyno, might see a chassis dyno. The combination is my own so if it comes across as a little goofy there's no one to blame but myself.

351W, +030, 1976 block
Stock crank, .010/.010
Stock rods, polished on beam, balanced, fitted with full floating pins
KB Hypereutectic pop up pistons, 11.25:1
ARP Main stud kit
C.A.T. Main girdle
Melling HV oil pump
ARP Oil pump drive shaft
Cloyes double roller timing
Ford Motorsports SFI balancer
Ford roller bearing cam retainer
ARP Head studs
World Rousch Iron 200CC heads
2.02 / 1.60 Stainless valves
1.55 Dual valve springs, titanium retainers
Crane 1.6 aluminum roller rockers w/studs & guide plates
Delta Cams custom grind solid lifter cam:
Lift - I=575, E=572, Duration - I=308 E=317
Howards lifters, solid w/oil hole in face
Hooker Super Comp's 1 5/8"
Price Motorsports billet intake adapters w/ lifter galley cover screwed to block
Weiand 289/302 tunnel ram, modified
Enderle Bugcatcher mechanical fuel injection, #21 main, ported to intake runners, running on gas
Enderle 7GPM belt driven fuel pump
MSD Billet 'Ready to Run' ignition
C4 trans with Alto red clutches & valve body kit
Hughes 3500 convertor
TCI SFI flexplate
9" rear with 4.11 gears
Strange full spool, 33 spline
Dutchman 33 spline axles
29" x 10" x 15" slicks
Cal-Track traction control
Est vehicle weight 2900 lbs with driver & 8 gallons gas
Also 8 point cage and sub frame connecters

This is all in a '68 Falcon Futura.

Would any of you care to hazard a guess as to what kind of hp/torque I might see at the flywheel/rear wheels? How about et/mph?

This engine is 98% completed, just the final mods waiting to be done on the intake and then button up the top. I will not be changing any components at this time so you really don't need to tell me I need to change this or that. If you would like to tell me what you would do different if this was your motor then I'm Ok with that. Know what I mean?

Really looking forward to your responses.

Murff

_________________
Anybody can restore a car. It takes a real man to cut one up.
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Murff on 3/6/06 11:12am ]</font>
 

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The stall seems a bit low for the cam specs you listed.



BTW is there a reason for using a 302 intake, did it already have the FI on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wanted to run the hat on a tunnel ram and as you probably already know, no one offers a tunnel ram for the 351W.

As to converter, this car will launch on the foot brake and more rpm than that and I believe I'd be driving through the brakes.

Murff

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Murff on 3/7/06 5:47am ]</font>
 

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On 2006-03-06 06:40, Murff wrote:
As to converter, this car will launch on the foot brake and more rpm than that and I believe I'd be driving through the brakes.

Murff
As that may be, regardless what rpm you hold it at the line you will want your stall to be optimized. Simply adjust your staged rpm accordingly, you'll mat it at the light anyway so it won't matter.
 

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Hmm your running a HV oil pump in a 351 which is a no no. The gear size of the HV may cause you issues. Replace that oil pump with a regular one. It will be fine. If not, your going tick tick tick...B O O M
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah, I guess I'm actually a little curious myself. My knowledge with small inch Fords is to not use a high pressure pump but high volume is not a problem.

I would appreciate it if you would elaborate on the area of weakness that validates your statement. Is there an inherent flaw that I (and maybe others) are unaware of? Please be as specific as possible.

Thanks

Murff
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I realize this is an old post but I needed to bring it back for a minute.

We got this engine running a week or so ago and I quickly found that I had onitted the oil galley plug in the lifter valley. Installed the plug, refired and had 70 lbs of pressure for about five minutes, then down to 10 lbs. Checked the plug I had just installed and found it to still be in place. Pulled front cover and found the lower galley plug had popped out. Replaced plug and since I had the pan down I decided at that point to install a stock pump.

The reason I bring all of this up is because of one of the responses to this post, namely the reference to the motor going "tick tick boom". I asked what the issue with a HV pump was and got a couple of good guesses but the OP never replied as to what the issue was.

I subscribed to this board because there appears to be a pretty vast talent pool to bounce ideas off of. There also seems to be a bit of arrogance on the part of some posters. That is to be expected, I guess. But I just couldn't let that Boom comment go. It would have been nice to have that poster speak from some sort of fact rather than a generic statement with nothing to back it up.

I have learned the hard way that if a HV or HP oil pump is going into the build then screw in galley plugs are a must. Even 'staking' or 'pegging' of the plugs cannot be trusted.

If I see a post of someone asking a question in an area that I have first hand experience then I will share that experience in the hope that someone will not have to do things two or three times to get it right. Had a reply regarding galley plugs popping out been posted I probably would have reconsidered my choice of pumps while the bottom of the motor was open, on the stand, rather than changing the pump in the car.

I apologize for the apparent rant and hope this doesn't come off as a total flame but this has been in the back of my mind for quite a while and I just felt I had to say something. Maybe I shouldn't have. Dunno.

Murff
 

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I haven't personally run into problems with them popping out with my HV on my 302, but I have heard stories. That is definitely cheap insurance to put threaded plugs in it. If my oil pressure ever takes a hit, that will be the first place I look.
 

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the fact that StangNinjak did not elaborate when you asked him to speaks volumes as far as im concerned.
in my experience with running a hv pump in a 351w,IF your engine is setup properly you should not have a problem.
when we put my engine together the bearings were set for using a hv pump and a heavy duty pump shaft was used.
the only issue Ive had is the distributor gear needed replacing but i arent sure if that was on its way out anyway,because since the new gear went on there is no visible wear on it
 

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Same here. Been running, (well,, hell, I've always run HV pumps in all my engines), anyway, been running a Melling HV pump in my strokers since their inception.
Also wore out a dizzy drive gear, but it's a solid roller cam, and brass/whatever (soft), gear. It's gonna happen.

Anyway, like everyone else stated, if your clearances are right, and you red loctite/stake the originals ones, OR tap/use screw in plugs (best), no worries.

Good luck, have fun. :&gt
 

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Sorry too hear you ran into problems Murff, that always sucks, but I'm with the others on this one.

I've been running a Mellings with 3 different 351W's in the Falcon for 10 years and have not experienced any issues what so ever.

That intake does look good..! Like to know what she run in the 1/4 if you ever get to the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the replies folks.

Might have been I was just feeling sorry for myself for making mistakes in my build and just needed to whine a bit. That's the tough part about building my own engine...when it don't work there's no one to blame but myself.

Sorry for taking the Dyno board so far off topic.

Murff
 
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