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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I wanted to ask what is a good cylinder head for a mild 289. I want better performance , but nothing crazy that will work with stock exhaust. I will have a small cam of around 218-224 or something close; I bought a 1967 289 and want to soup it a little its a 2 barrel so need to get 4 barrel intake and carb.It;s a low milage engine not going tear it apart to do anything . but heads and cam.
Thank you
 

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Hello,

I wanted to ask what is a good cylinder head for a mild 289. I want better performance , but nothing crazy that will work with stock exhaust. I will have a small cam of around 218-224 or something close; I bought a 1967 289 and want to soup it a little its a 2 barrel so need to get 4 barrel intake and carb.It;s a low milage engine not going tear it apart to do anything . but heads and cam.
Thank you
For a mild 289, keep with the stock heads and port out the exhaust side and just clean up the intakes. Have the heads milled about .015" for a little more comp. Most have the smog air bump removed that gives much better response. Good set of roller tip, not roller rocker arms, just tipped ones. Windage tray helps make HP, along with standard oil pump. Ignition system that works good is the
PerTronix Flame-Thrower Stock Look Cast Distributors D134600
with a epoxy coil. I'd also get a Ford style 100 AMP alt for better power to the ignition. I bypassed the resistor wire to get 12+ volts to the coil all the time. Edelbrock Pref or Weiand work good. Since you didn't say what vehicle it's going in, hood clearance on taller manifolds can be an issue. Pref RPM is a little tall for a stock hood on Stangs. In a Mav or Comet, plenty of room.
Better servo in the trans, and 3.25-3.55 gears will help wake her up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the detailed response Ricky. The motor is in a low mileage 67 Fairlane. What about a little bigger valves. I’m not pulling out the motor so I don’t want to run into pv clearance with bigger valves.
 

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Thanks for the detailed response Ricky. The motor is in a low mileage 67 Fairlane. What about a little bigger valves. I’m not pulling out the motor so I don’t want to run into pv clearance with bigger valves.
Install 351W intake and exhaust valves in your 289 heads. Then make sure and open the port up under the bigger valves and especially on the TOP PART ONLY of the exhaust port.. Unless you're driving 500+ miles a month, you don't need the exhaust seat change out. Not worth it and can be a leak problem down the line. A engine that sees less then 5K miles per year doesn't need the seat change out.
 

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a good option for you may be a set of pro comps, i run a set on a BBF stroker with a 871 and i was amazed at at how well they work, i even broke a crank bent all the valves and heads were fine just needed new valves and assembly don't count them out, i also used them on 2 sbc motors no issues there either
 

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65 did have the smog bump if they were a Cali car. I had a 65 back in 72/73 and it had them. Smog pump and tube manifold with the head drilled by the exhaust manifold. Then a tube stuck down in the port. But as stated they did have the adjustable rocker arm studs, and not the torque down.
 

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Thanks guys.
Back before all these specialty heads we had to make due with what we could find. Many used 351W heads and ported out the exhaust side and used higher comp pistons to get comp back up. Many used Chevy valves in their SBFs and ported the heads out.
On my 331 stroker in my 66 Stang, I have 68 302 4V heads (54ccs), with Chevy 1.90i, 1.60e and ported out to the max on both sides. Makes it more of a sleeper that way.
 

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