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Most people that are into hardcore rebuilds will check the cam for accuracy and adjust as necessary. But most never verify the damper and timing marks or the pointer for accuracy.
Now think about it, if they are off 4 degs that affects timing and how much HP you’ll get. When it says adjust to 10 at idle or 36 total. Checking them is actually easier then checking a cam accuracy. Also with an older factory damper, you can check to see if it’s slipped.

First thing you have to do is remove the belts and pulleys if installed, and all the sparkplugs (easier to turn) if installed.

Then use the damper bolt to mount the timing wheel. You’ll also need a few washers to put between the wheel and the damper face to not crush the wheel when you tighten the damper bolt.

Using a piston stop as this one or the sparkplug type, GENTLY rotate the crank until it stops against the piston stop. You have to do this both ways and mark the wheel to get it calibrated for the damper test. Just as you would a cam timing test.

Once the wheel is calibrated to “0”, remove the piston stop and rotate the crank 1 complete rotation and stop at “0” on the wheel. This is why you need the spacer washers for the wheel because the damper bolt is what you’re turning both with.

Check the damper and pointer to see if they’re at “0”. If not, you can either use a adjustable pointer, use timing tape to adjust, grind the pointer or what ever works for you. At this time you can also mark the damper itself for later to check for slippage.

Then just remove the wheel and reinstall all the parts, retorque the damper bolt.

You’d be surprised how many damper/pointers are several degs off.

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