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Deeper is Better
Installing a B&M Trans Pan and Shift Lever

Installing a B&M Cast Aluminum Deep Trans Pan and Shift Lever is pretty simple. Last weekend I reinstalled my AOD trans into my project '64 Falcon. Long story short, this is the third time it has gone back in and this time it will last. Needless to say, lining up the 2800-stall ProTorque converter to the flywheel is second nature.

After bolting it up to the engine and car, I was disgusted to look at the hideous transmission pan. This pan was on the original AOD case from the first build. Someone had coated it with some sort of undercoating and then sat it on foam padding before it was dry. This was my first project car, so now I am going back through the car and making things look better and upping the quality.

B&M Racing is only 20 minutes away from my office so I called them up and picked up the parts I needed on my lunch hour. Besides the Deep Sump Trans pan (PN# 40291), I needed a new shift lever (PN #40494). The old one broke while transporting the transmission. The trans shop installed a stock lever to keep everything together until I got the new CNC machined billet piece. The pan holds an extra 3-quarts of fluid, which will help with maintaining a safe trans temperature.



Here is the old and ugly stock pan that needed to go. With the high stall ProTorque converter, the more fluid capacity the better.



This is what the stock linkage looks like and it will not work with the B&M Mega Shifter cable. It must go.



The AOD trans was totally dry (except for the quart of fluid in the converter), so I did not have to worry about spilling trans fluid everywhere.



After the pan is off you can see the entire lever and the components it connects to inside the case.



The large nut on the inside of the case has to be loosened in order to remove the lever.



The cotter key holds the lever in place. Remove it, but do not lose it. Slip the new lever in and re-install the cotter key.



Now tighten the nut onto the new lever. The lever can only go on one way. Make sure it fits into the slot on the gear selector.



The CNC machined Billet lever slipped in nicely and looks great!



The allen head cap screws installed easily and maintain that clean look.



The pan came with two gaskets. They are both the same except for one hole that makes the difference between the AOD and AODE. The parts bag came with a plug for the hole that remains unused.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No I did not. Is it vital to have? The fluid is still filled to the full mark, so it reaches the pick-up.

I am adjusting the shift cable this week. I will let you know how it goes.
 

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Ok. It all makes sense. Do you have a P/N? I can post the install when I get it done. I will be creating more tech pieces now that the Falcon is back on the road.

FYI-The ProTorque converter and the LenTech Valve Body are AMAZING! I farted around with the TV cable yesterday and got it set right.
 

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Here is some info I got from "Pauls1950" THANKS PAUL !!! :) :)

I have not had any luck finding the extension tube, (will probably just make one, since they are from early broncos, typically I've found those guys are using them, and they are hard to by, like I haven't found one yet)

<hr style="color: rgb(198, 198, 198);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> <!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: bbcode_quote --> Quote:
<table border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset ;"> Originally Posted by cccdjb

Thanks, do you know where to get the deep pan filter/extension tube.

</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
<!-- END TEMPLATE: bbcode_quote -->The filter and tube are available at any transmission parts house. They are for the 73-77 Bronco with C4. You will need to get the filter kit and not just the filter.
My supplier lists the kit as part# FK26422D.
the "FK" is for "filter kit"; the 26 is the prefix for all C4 parts; 422 is the ID number for all the filters and the "D" is for the specific application. Suppliers often have different numbers so your supplier may (probably will) have a different number.
The filter has a rubber grommet in a circular opening that a tube fits snugly into. The tube is usually cut in arches at the bottom for oil to enter but I have also seen some that are straight with braces that bolt to the filter mounting screws.
There is also a filter used in Mustang IIs with a deep pan but it isn't usually deep enough for an after-market deep pan. It only adds 3/4" to the depth and has a small square or rectangular opening. The Bronco filter kit is the one to get. You only buy the kit once - after that you can re-use the tube and just buy the filter from then on.
The Ford filter number is D3BZ-7A098-A.
<!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> ______________________________________
Paul
______________________________________
retired mechanic after 35 years
specialized in Holley carbs and Ford Automatic Transmissions
 
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