Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
65 Falcon Wagon Re-Build

Had some time now to REALLY go over the wagon.

1. Steering wanders and leaks
2. Exhaust leaks
3. Carb leaks fuel, and some engine issues
4. Some paint bubbles aroud the rear roof 1/4's
5. 1/4 windows need new rubber
6. Windshield needs new rubber

This is the short list.

The steering is a quandry, think I'm going to go Borgsen intagrated PS box. Have to save up some pennies for that, will see if I can do some small adjustments till then. As for the leak, I will just have to deal with it till then.

If I drive with the windows cracked, I get exhaust in the car. Need to find the leaks. I know there is a leak on the drivers manifold, I can hear it when I get on it. Dont know if its the head or pipe yet.

The Holley 680.........I know its WAY TO BIG!, leaked fuel and I tightened everything up on it, till I can get a 500cfm for it. I dont seem to leak anymore fuel. The engine is an old points ignition and I dont think the wires have been changed in 10 years. On a happier note the oil is clean and the filter is new. I will be ordering a Pertronix II and coil very soon, along with cap, rotor, plugs, and wires.

Will not be doing anything with the "bubbles" for right now, and the rubber will have to wait for awhile.

Other than that I'm very pleased with the wagon. The interior is nice, I prefer buckets, and have a set that I will see if they fit. The floor shifter is to far forward and will need to be moved back. Maybe I'll put in the buckets and make a console built around the shifter........interesting.

There is little things too, like there isnt any armrests, or a passenger mirror......which to get a matching has taken 3 days to find. Come to find out the drivers mirror is off a 60-63 Fairlane 500.....very cool looking, so I had to find a match.

Thats the updates for now...................more to come.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Today I put the Falcon up in the air in the garage.

Why is it that when you take your car in somewhere........idiots work on your car?

With tha said, I decided to see what I could find out on my steering and wander woes. As they said the idler arm is wore out, and the wheel bearings are a little loose, but here's the kicker. The drivers lower control arm is TRASH!!! I can make it move a 1/2 inch at the frame, by the "top-n-bottom" wheel shake. I would think that would be checked by ANY qualified tech......BEFORE they tried to align the thing, like I asked.

Well parts are on order and will be in on Friday. Maybe I'll have this on the road and driving STRAIGHT next week. Its lookin like it gunna be time for upper bushings soon too.

On my 71 Ranchero I used a Granada? rubber bushing kit. Does anyone make this kit for the Falcons? It sure did make the Ranchero ride and drive better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What the hell...............I have now gathered a set of Moog loaded upper control arms, 1 lower control arm (the pass side is new), Idler arm, spring compressor tool, and 90* zerk fittings for the uppers.

Tomorrow I will take the front end apart and replace most of it, then see how it drives! ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The spring compressor that I bought..........wont work on the Falcon, so plans changed a little.

I changed the driver lower arm today, the old one wasnt really bad, old but could have still been used. The biggest problem was that neither side was torqued.....at all. With the drivers being the worst. I still replaced the lower with the new one I got, torqued everything down, and went on a test drive. it drives WAY BETTER!!!!! Doesnt feel like it has a mind of its own and almost out of control.

Funny little squeeks coming from the front end are gone too.

This afternoon..........see if I can cure some leaks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ordered a new PS ram, since thats whats leaking, from chockostang, and found out that my steering stuff is 67 Cougar. Had a fun time trying to find the right idler arm, now I know what year and car to buy parts for on the front end.

I'm holding off on replacing the hoses at this time, till I get the ram installed. I've also decided to not go with the Borgeson PS box since it is driving 100% better since I've torqued everything in the front now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did more work today on updating the wagon. Got a set of high output headlights, that use H4 bulbs and installed them yesterday. Guess what happened........yup, the blinking light syndrome.....to much draw. So I added relays and picked up power from the battery. WOW ARE THEY BRIGHT!!!






With that done, I've had a shake and miss since I got it. So I I did a tune-up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, the whole nine yards. The plugs were all rusted on the outside, so I guess its been awhile since its had some attention.

Thats all for now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got under it and changed the idler arm and changed the steering ram. The old rams piston shaft was bent pretty bad, I'd say at least 1/4" from straight. I guess I found another reason for poor steering response and control. I should have ordered new valve to ram hoses.....cause after removing the old stuff they really need to be replaced, so there on order. It drives better with everything I did so far, so I'm very happy with the results.

I also got rid of the bargain choke cable and put in a good one.....its nice to be able to start it and not have to sit in it to keep it running to warm her bones.

Still have to change the speedo cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Finally got the alignment done.......0.5*+ caster and camber, It does drive much better, but my steering doesnt self-center? Any ideas?

On to the next issue.....from time to time I get a LR wheel lockup while braking. So in the garage and up the rear goes, pulled it apart to find.....the wrong brake shoes are on it. Both shoes are secondary shoes, no short shoes on either side. The right side has a bad wheel bearing seal....what a mess!! Oh yea, the flex line where it attaches to the the hard line.....not in the bracket, just floating in the air.....parts are orderered should be here in the morning.

Changed the carb to a 600CFM 1850 Holley........WHAT A DIFFERENCE, driveability is WAY better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
336 Posts
You don't have nearly enough caster. Add at least 2 more degrees and the steering will center like a dream.
Ditto. Factory specs are intended for bias ply tires, which Im guessing you probably dont have, and for ease of steering. Basically you want as much positive caster as you can get.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
Really? I went by the factory specs. Will the "darting" mellow out more too?
Yes it will.
Everyone forgets that front rake effectivly takes caster out also. Have you dropped the front? Big and littles?

Caster isn't a tire wear setting, it's for drivablity. Too much caster with manual steering will make it feel heavy, but with PS you'll never feel the difference, but it will track like it's on rails.

Add plenty, just make sure you can still keep the camber in spec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It does have a little rake to it, but there is no mods to the suspension that I can tell, it has air shocks on the rear, but I dont have any air in them. I will replace the rear shocks pretty soon with some good gas units and the tires are the same front and rear although I am going to change to 215/70-14 on the front and 225/60-14 on the rear to get a more 70's muscle look.

I'll have to get some shims, I think the book said a 1/32" shim adds 0.5* positive caster. So I want at least 2*+ and 2.5* would be better?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
576 Posts
You are going to be limited by however many shims are under the rearmost a-frame mount on each side. To adjust caster without changing camber, remove shims from the rear bolt and add an equal amount to the front bolt. At the point there are no more shims at the rear...it is what it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I finally got all the parts in for the rear brake job.......new axle seals, the right brake shoes, and a complete fluid change and bleeding.

She stops real good now!
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top