Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Those all sound good,but make sure thier "constant run" pumps,Im pretty sure the BG-280 is only a "drag race" pump only and will overheat in about 10 minutes on the street.


My fabricator builds allot of real hot cars up for guys,and he says the Magnaflow pumps can run constant on the street,I have done some research on them but its still unclear to me as of right now if they are "constant run" or not?

I know the old Paxton 300 that Greg Cook runs is for sure a nice "constant run" pump but they dont make it anymore.

Chilly,let me know what you find out on this subject on the "constant run" pump deally,Ive been doing alot of searching for this type of info and have not really come up with anything good yet?

I was thinking I would go with the Magnaflow Quick Star 300 for my Falcon,if I can determine for sure it can live on the streets thats the one Ill get.

Chilly, I forgot is your combo all motor or do you have a bottle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
when it comes to pumps, ive heard good things about the magna flow products. i run system1 has some very nice filters. 30mic. watch out for 10mic,with some filter designs you can run into clogging if you have any funk in the fuel system. even new tank, pump lines. you can still get funk. you runnin 10AN, man you must be ready to use a bunch of bottle on that 408. i run -8, fuel cell up to carb, then 6 into carb. no bottle. you can only get so much into those bowls. -8 into the bowls should be plenty for what you want to do.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,758 Posts
Gheesh. I feel like a needledick with my 'small' fuel system. I've always loved carter race pumps, (didn't use one on the stang, no money when first put together), but in either case, carter race pumps were like 110 gph. I've always utilized the Fram BIG fuel filters. I modify/whatever the 7/16" lines going in and out to 1/2". I run 1/2" line from fuel cell to filter, same to pump, and 1/2" aluminium line to regulator, then 1/2" line to carb.
Like stated in the beginning, I feel like the 'little twinkster' compared to the 'killer' fuel systems you guys either 'have', or are gonna have.......... (wish I wouldn't have spent all that money on engine................could've had some for fuel system upgrades)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
<font color="blue">I run a BG400 with the step down box, and it does fine in stop and go traffic. I'm not saying that you should do this
as this is a setup that I'm willing to live with. At half voltage the pump is much quieter. I have #12 from the sump to the pump/filter, #8 bypass at the pump, #10 to the regulator(BG 4Port) and #6 to the carb and NOS system. I do believe there are constant duty pumps on the market that will flow as well without the need for the voltage stepdown. Good Luck</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,929 Posts
I vote for the Magnaflow. Get one that has the external bypass built into the pump. Its got a shorter distance to travel than all the way from the front of the car. If ya can afford it, spring for the pump with the built in filter housing. Not cheap at near $500. Their 4 port regulator could be used with only two ports. If ya decide to use the juice later the regulator is already setup.
Ya know I'm just trying to look out for ya Chilly! I could even help ya spend your money!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
OK, I was going to run a 10-AN from the cell to the pump and filter all the way up to the 4 port regulator.

It looks like the Magnaflow Quick Star 300 is a "constant run" pump,I friend of mine runs one on a 502 BBC on the streets all the time with no problems.

I see that they rate the MagnaFlow 300 for up to 900 hp. and it says good for nitrous,blowers and turbo combos.

I was going to run two seperate pumps at one time but this one big pump will be cheaper and easier to plumb in the system.

Chilly has a good point,its better to have expansion room in your fuel system than to run it on the small side or leave no room to feed more power.

You can run your motor rich a million times....but you only run it lean once.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Chilly, I found that Aeromotive 350 pump on Summits site and it says 10 minutes run time before overheat.

I wish these companies would just come out and say "constant run" or not right in the ads they have for their pumps!

I have found some list the run time info,but most dont?

My friend runs that Aerospace Components pump on his 64 Tempest,he really doesnt street drive the car much but when he does he says the pump gets real hot in about 15 minutes.

I want to know for sure before I buy and plumb a plumb for my car that it can run on the street with no overheats.Im not going through all the money and trouble to find out after all the stuff is on the car.

If it comes down to it I know I can run two smaller pumps that are definatly ready to run all the time,the BG Hot Rod 220 is a pump that would be one I would consider.

I could run the BG-HR220 @ $229 for the motor and run a second smaller "nitrous enrichment" pump if I wanted to be completly safe.

I think I will reasearch some more and find one big pump that would fit my needs,let me know if you find out anything in your reasearch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
777 Posts
On my racecar, I run a Holley 350 pump, with -10 line from the cell to the pump, -10 from the pump to the Holley big port regulator, and -8 from the regulator to each bowl on the carb. In between the cell and pump I have a K&N filter with the fine filter removed. I run alcohol for fuel so my demands are much more than a gas powered car and this fuel system leaves me room to grow (go faster) and has helped me run 9.97.

Any big fuel pump that's worth a d**n is going to require a step down box to keep them from burning up on the street.

FYI= Had a Paxton 300 pump, it was junk. Went to hell on me after 4 weeks of racing, and they wouldnt warranty it.
Another guy at the track had the same style pump go out on him after 6 weeks. They wouldnt warranty his either. Needless to say, I will never purchase anything ever again with the name Paxton on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,832 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

I was told the MagnaFlow pumps could be run all the time by a couple guys,but now with the company telling me so Im 100% confident it can!


What one you going with Chilly?

That built in filter model really makes the price skyrocket!

I was thinking I would run the "Quick Star 300" its $360 pump only and $520 pump and filter in one.

Thats $160 extra for the filter,Im not sure I want to spend that much more just to have the filter built on?

Whats a good seperate filter going to cost?

I might just break down and by the pump and filter assembly in one from them.


_________________

65 Falcon Sprint Super-Stock-White Lightning
66 Galaxie 500 390 4-V auto-future 4 or 5spd.
95 F-350 XLT Super-Cab DRW 460- Tow Vehical

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DynoTom on 2/21/02 2:25am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
the system1 filters cost between $60-$130. it depends what size you need or want. they are cleanable. stainless steel .30 micron filter element. you never need to replace anything. i will snap a few shots and post them later on. i am satisfied. good parts cost good money..
 

·
Subscriber
Joined
·
329 Posts
Aeromotive's #101 pump, the cylindrical one rated to 1300 HP carbureted is usable for constant duty with the 204 regulator. The key concern according to them is properly sized return line. It needs to have adequate flow characteristics so that it doesn't create pressure back against the regulated output, e.g. 6-8Lbs. to the float bowls. No return line or too small is the reason they get hot, burn out etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
777 Posts
The inline filters from K&N have male AN ends on them, a cleanable stainless filter inside, and are less than $75. Plus they are relatively small to fit into tight places around the pump easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,470 Posts
Yes, running a return style regulator is key in getting a pump to live a long, happy life.


This way, cool fuel is continuously circulated through the pump, keeping it cool. It also doesn't have to work too hard pushing stagnent fuel against a deadhead regulator.

Use a return style regulator on the street! My Mallory 140 has lasted 10 years of street duty without a hiccup... using a return style regulator. The pumps live a MUCH quieter and cooler life this way.

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
777 Posts
On 2002-02-18 23:36, n2omike wrote:
Yes, running a return style regulator is key in getting a pump to live a long, happy life.
Or a pump with a built in return. But that doesnt allow for the fresh fuel to stay in the lines. On a strictly racecar its not a problem since it doesnt idle around alot (like for miles at a time) and give the fuel in the lines a chance to "heat" up. On a dedicated racecar, the return in the pump is fine, for a street car a return style regulator would be best.

At least in my opinion.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
280 Posts
I have a dumb question, on the AN fittings sizes 4-6-8-10-12 AN relate to sizes 5/16 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4
Alan
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top