[pnwpenguin]

In a bout of un-earned self confidence, I decided to tune our 65 Gal 302. I started adjusting the timing, with timing light, car was running, but rough. I have not been able to start her since my timing debacle. I did mark dist. and block, so returned dist to original mark. I am pretty sure fuel is flowing well. I have since then replaced points, condenser and coil(had one already) and ballast resistor. I do get spark, but seems kinda weak to me. I am getting 12 volts to ballast resistor near coil, 4.6 volts at positive side of coil when key on.
So, what should I check next? I fixed it to death!
65 Gal, 302, ps, pb, conv. edel carb and intake.

 

[arnoldtx]

Check the plugs they maybe fouled. If you set the points correctly and have good fuel it should run.

 

[ssghill]

Dud! I almost passed you by, did you say "Ballast Resistor", if you did, may I ask if you have the Transistor Ignition system inside yours? I have the 1964 shop manual and thought I could find the fix for ya but it's a long chpt. I didn't find on the schematic 12v anywhere.
I see on one side of the resistor 0.33 ohm from the ignition and the other 0.43 to the -neg side of the coil. Check, If you have a 2 ampere fuse in the harness next to the resistor.
Food for thought
ssghill, tried and true!

 

[puttster]

Man I know exactly what you are talking about. Like you do a good deed for someone and then they sue you!

OK, so now it won't start.

You can bypass a lot of upstream wiring snags by running a wire straight from the coil to the battery, clamp it there with a vicegrips. For that matter start the car by touching the starter wire to those same vicegrips. Make sure the neg battery is tight and grounded, don't use those green knob battery clamps, they suck. Remember to unclamp the coil wire from the vicegrips after 5 minutes or the 12v will burn up the coil. If the car starts the problem is not in the distributor or fuel.

If it doesn't start make sure a .000001 feeler gauge will not fit through the points when closed. Don't just look, test!

Plug your distributor vacuum hose. If car starts then you have the hose incorrectly routed.

Make sure a few pumps will squirt gas into the boosters.

Fundamentals: Is your rotor actually installed, plug wires routed CCW and #1 pointing to the Master cylinder?

Next check for TDC. stuff a trimmed wine cork (or a 5/8 - 3/4 cork if you don't drink) in #1 plug hole. Bump ignition until cork pops out, at this point both valves are closed. Is rotor pointing approximately to MC? or 180 degrees from there. Where is the TDC chalk mark, I hope under the pointer.

If it is not, try reinstalling the dizzy. Pull it up, turn it CCW an inch or two and set it back in. those gears are cut at an angle and when you push down the dizzy will shift back to the right, hopefull right to #1.

And before any of this lets be sure you have a good battery. If the cranking is slooooow put a new one in there, or at least jump it.

That's all the advice I can give except good luck

Edit: Now if you have a transistor ignition, maybe you should not try the coil direct-connect method I started off with...

 

[puttster]

Dud! I almost passed you by, did you say "Ballast Resistor", if you did, may I ask if you have the Transistor Ignition system inside yours? I have the 1964 shop manual and thought I could find the fix for ya but it's a long chpt. I didn't find on the schematic 12v anywhere.
I see on one side of the resistor 0.33 ohm from the ignition and the other 0.43 to the -neg side of the coil. Check, If you have a 2 ampere fuse in the harness next to the resistor.
Food for thought
ssghill, tried and true!

Yeah I saw that ballast resistor line too but didn't know what to make of it. Heres a schematic but who understands transistors?

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

You want me to come down there and get you fixed up right? It's only a 2 1/2 hour drive.

 

[ssghill]

yes sir, look at the wire 852, top left side of the ballast,follow around to that 2 amp fuse going to the tachometer block and check it.
Food for Thought.

 

[pnwpenguin]

Ya FE, I got to get it running good so we can make it there in July, but if your in the neighborhood.....
Taking computer to garage here to start going thru list.

 

[pnwpenguin]

update: bypass to coil straight from batt didn't help, rechecked dist to tdc#1, we ok there. I can't find the little fuse but will look more today. I did take off dist cap to watch points, they seem to be arcing? There is a lot of sparking in there when we crank the motor, does this mean anything? I put spark plug tester on plug wire and there is spark there, just still seems weak to me. It was running before I "fixed" it. Should I be looking for another source of trouble? Has to be spark or fuel right? She wont fire even when I sprayed in a lil starting fluid.
Thanks,
Tim

 

[galax-z]

put the old condenser back in

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

PM me your number so i can call you. I can come help you out.

 

[puttster]

PM me your number so i can call you. I can come help you out.

Penguin if you take this deal please note FE has a brand of whisky he drinks exclusively. Pretty expensive IIRC. Yes he will fix what ails you, all I am saying is where Gary is concerned be prepared for anything.

 

[ShotRod64]

Gee, make it sound like a bad thing if he's around! lol It's not even though that does sound that way!

 

[puttster]

Gee, make it sound like a bad thing if he's around! lol It's not even though that does sound that way!

LOL a nicer man you will not meet!

 

[PSIG]

put the old condenser back in

+1. Point arcing usually indicates a bad condenser.

David

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Well???? Are you going to reply to your PM and have me down to get you on the road?

 

[pnwpenguin]

Thanks Gary, I sent a PM.
Changed the condenser,to the old one, no discernible difference to my eyes.
Still contemplating..

 

[pnwpenguin]

WooHoo!
Thanks to FE, we got her running. Turns out you don't need a ballast resistor if you have resistor wiring. Also, I hadn't adjusted rocker arms quite right and they were kinda - well, actually, really loose...
Thanks again Gary
Tim & Chris

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Loose?????? LMFAO : )

There were THREE rockers not even ON the tips of the valves... LOL

The sound you heard coming form the intake was the exhaust valve opening the intake valve because the rocker was off.

The self locking nuts on the rockers are BAD, I took a Hammer and whacked them until they gripped the threads then let PNP's son do the valve adjustment after I showed him how.

Nutted it all back together and she caught fire on the first revolution. Damn that thing sounds GOOD!

Glad I could help! It was only 293 miles not 300 like I thought it was. Now get that car ready for prom, and swap out those rocker nuts.

Hey guy's, this is a nice 65 Vert, lots of potential! I saw a 60 Galaxie/Starliner Vert in Vader on top of a flatbed waiting for someone to by it.

 

[pnwpenguin]

update:
Self locking nuts......check
New plugs......check
Tranny leak(s) fixed......check
went to exhaust shop today, dual 2 1/4 with H pipe.....pick up Friday
Woohoo!