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I agree that the gears don't help, but I still should feel a significant improvement over stock. I might have a 8.8 with a 3:55 posi lined up....that will help, but there is still something with the motor...
 

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OK, don't worry about the secondaries, as you don't want them until high in rpm at WOT. In-fact, they could be coming-in too early causing some bog. But, not smoking the tires is a low-rpm issue, compounded by the gears, and likely a stock-stall converter. At this point, you are looking for mis- or non-adjusted stuff. If sitting on the dyno in-front of me, I'd start checking everything, including initial setup directions. For example, did you follow the fairly extensive carburetor setup instructions for setting all the adjustments, in proper order, and without skipping? Did you degree the cam when you installed it to verify proper valve timing? Same with the distributor? Did you check for total advance, rate of advance, as-well as initial? Are those adjustments correct for your engine? Stuff like that.

Next, use a vacuum gauge to look for abnormalities. It can tell you all kinds of stuff, from fuel, to timing, to exhaust issues, and more. Get one, and learn how to read it. Cheap and fast answers.

It doesn't take much to mess-up a combo, and like a brand new guitar, it won't make anything that sounds like good music until it's tuned. Rule #1, if you throw nice parts on a slug without tuning, it will usually be a slug wearing nice parts. You can bet they had some smart guys working hard to get every bit of the numbers they advertise.
;)
David
 

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David, again thanks for the reply. I will admit that this is my first "toy" in a long time, and there is the possibility that I missed something. No, I did not degree the cam, actually, I called edelbrock to ask if it was necessary, and they said no. That combined with the fact that it fired right up after I reinstalled the motor, I was pretty confident that I had things correct. I think that I have a vacuum gage, not sure if I really know how to use it. Thanks, mark.
 

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Why I think that I might be having carb issues, is that I thought that I was able to use the stock/factory linkage but I know that edelbrock makes an adapter for the linkage. I did watch the video and read the instructions for the carb a few times, it didn't seem too difficult. I followed the instructions for the distributor as well. Again, didn't seem to involved; it popped right in where it was supposed to go. Fun but frustrating project!
 

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you are fortunate because you have two extremely sharp guys replying to you.

you can not follow distributor set up instructions . you need to set the timing curve so t is optimal for your particular engine . the very, very first thing you absolutely mus d is plug the distributor vacuum advance and leave it plugged.

if your pistons are dished instead of flat tops with 2 valve reliefs, you will probably have less compression than edelbrock used for their test.

also, if your block is not 0 decked you probably have less compression than eddy had.

not all dynos or dyno operators produce the same results so you can not use numbers only for comparisons.

if you want to increase your rate of acceleration, you must install numerically higher gears . if you had a 271 h po engine, it would feel like a pig with 2.80 gears . those gears are for grandma so she doesn't have a stroke by accidentally accelerating to fast . decent street and highway gears are 3.25 and those will make it feel like you added 50 . a decent basic converter stall is 2000.


heres the deal if you want to spin the tire and hove decent power and you have 2 valve relief flat top pistons, you can do the following.

install a comp cams xe62h cam.

remove the heads and mill them to 54 cc

measure how far below the block the pistons are then use a thinner head gasket to get the quench/squish between .034 and .042 . the thinnest available gasket i know of is cometic .027"

install a weiand street intake.

install a quick fuel 600 cfm carb and try a lighter secondary spring.

set the dist timing.

install 3.25 gears . if you drive 70 mph or more for long periods use 3.0 . if you only drive 65 mph and want screamin acceleration, use 3.43

install a 2000 rpm stall

make sure the intake still fits properly or possibly mil .010" off the intake surface of each head when you have them off but i prefer to mill the intakes if needed.

you will probably have 40 more hp than you do now and it will smoke a single drive tire till the cows come home, almost.

make sure the intake still
 

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Barnett, thanks for the info. It would be great if I was just getting started; it sounds like I have almost everything you suggested, just a different brand. I just need to get what I have working correctly. Again, the Edelbrock numbers were based on a stock motor with 9:1 pistons....thanks, Mark
 

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Barnett, thanks for the info. It would be great if I was just getting started; it sounds like I have almost everything you suggested, just a different brand. I just need to get what I have working correctly. Again, the Edelbrock numbers were based on a stock motor with 9:1 pistons....thanks, Mark

Yes but not with a stock exhaust...

500CFM is a bit short, and EDL carbs are not VS, this is a mix between mechanical and vacuum.
Be sure that a 500 cfm is fully opening on your combo.
Your long rear end doesn't help for seat of the pants feeling ;)
 

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Again, I appreciate all of the help I can get. I can't Remer if I mentioned that I am running Hedman long tube headers, 2.5 Dia exhaust thru magna flow mufflers....
 
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