ok guys heres the deal im going to be building a stroker andi want to go with a 347 but i have been reading that becasue of the piston design they burn oil im just wondering from your expierence do they really burn oil should i go with a 331
My last trip to the Knotts Berry Farm show in April I used 1/2 quart of oil driving over from Phoenix, AZ, a 900 mile round trip. Of that 1/2 quart, I'd estimate that 90% came from my leaky oil pan. Not bad IMO for a 347, heck my old 302 used more oil than that
As I understand, the problem is with the rod length used in nearly every 347 stroker kit, a 5.400 in. rod. This pushes the wrist pin up into the ring area, therefore, oil gets through, and burns. However, Coast High Performace (www.coasthigh.com) does offer a decent stroker kit with a shorter rod (5.315 in.) to eliminate the common oil burning problem.
1964 Falcon - 260 V8 with a C4
2001 Ford Taurus - 3.0L V6, 24 Valve
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FlyByFord on 5/15/06 7:15pm ]</font>
well im not really concerned with the oil burning issue what i was trying to get at is does it burn a quart and month or a quart a week im just wondering if it consumes alot i think we all check our or once a week or when its nessassary so that fact that it burns oil isnt really a problem
Hate to break your stones, but thats a real open ended question?!?! I don't think any one her could honestly answer that or give you a real answer. How about, It shouldn't burn any more than any other high performance engine.....................
I drove my little 347 around town for a couple years (before going solid roller) and it never burnt ANY noticeable amount of oil, and I ran Mobil 1 synthetic in it. It was the 5.315" rod setup. I think it's not even an issue with newer technology stuff and good build technique.
Strokers built with blocks that have marginal wall thickness are at risk no matter what you do.
Do the sonic reports, set the clearance right, use a good ring pack and follow the recommendations EXACTLY and you should be fine.
The short rods in most combos do put more load on the thrust side, but there are some better ones out there with longer rods that minimize it. An engineer could calculate the additional load.
Part of the problem is when production blocks get treated like race hardware. At no time did the Ford engineers anticipate an extra 1/2 of stroke after an overbore (!) with the increased cylinder pressure and rpm of a highly built stroker engine ... at the same time they were trying to get every last ounce of iron out of the block. And ya cant tell me anyone builds a 347 to go to the store and never gets on it.
To really do it right, you need one of the FRPP HD Ford blocks if you want it to live a good long time while thrashing it on the strip and the street. The thicker walls and sturdy webs will help it hold up under the higher loads; they're made for it.
Plenty of guys make the production blocks work, but they are on borrowed time IMHO considering the relative cylinder wall thickness with the pressure and load they are under hanging the fronts a few feet in the air (like CometGT1974's bad ride!!)