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I'm as old school as it gets so going to aftermarket heads was a tough one. The heads that were on the old 289 I had worked over when I did the motor in 01, with a little more lift and duration than the old hypo cam and it ran 13.50s @ 103mph. That's about 325 hp. from a fairly stock 289 with stock valves.

The thing is you can start with a head out of a box that makes more power than a worked over stock head and weighs fifty lbs. less per pair, then improve them as needed.

One other thing my grinding days aren't over, I'm on my way to pick up a set of 440 Mopar heads I did twenty five years ago. I have a Plymouth drag car these were on my first motor, I had given them the shop that did the heads for my 500ci -440 twenty years ago and never got them back. I got a call Sunday night saying they had been found and where delivered to me on Monday! I've had the short block done for a year so I'm going to do more work on the exhaust ports order a new cam and put it on the dyno.
 

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An example of a 302 with factory DOOE heads pocket ported. Vehicle 84 Mustang GT 3200# with PWs, AC, 245 60 BFGs, 3.08 rear, T5, 2 1/2 exh with dyno max muffs (never uncorked), Pocket porting, stock valves and comp valve job around 300.00.
1/4 mile 12.2, fuel economy highway 24 to 28 MPG

VrJr intake untouched, Crane cam around .535 lift solid lifter, Headman Super Comps, reworked 750 DP Holley, Shift point around 7200. Daily driver put 170K on the 30 over org engine with no issues.

As far as selling machine work I am retired and dont realy care if I do another set.
To all members- the stock iron heads can be made to make a lot of power. the cost for that power can be Very high.

want to know how much , look at NHRA class racing. No dial your own et number.They set the time for you.
 

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The 289 heads on my car that ran really good had the following parts and machine work.

1.94" stainless intake valves
1.60 stainless exhaust valves
double springs
titanium retainers
machined locks
bronze guides
guide plates
7/16" screw-in studs
viton valve seals

clean
check for straightness
magnaflux for cracks
machine for bigger valves
multi angle valve job
surface 0.020"
machine and install head for bronze guides
machine for valve seals
hone guides
remove press in studs
machine bosses for screw-in studs and guide plates
tap for screw in studs
machine heads for double valve springs
set spring height

And, then I had to port them.

Buying quality parts, I had as much money in them as what you would pay for a set of aftermarket heads today... and I had to do all the grinding. I also had them ported so thin, an intake port cracked, letting in water, which junked a piston and rod when the engine hydrauliced.

If you aren't going to go to the expense of double springs, larger valves, bronze guides, guide plates, etc... and just want to install a 5k rpm cam... sure. Do some porting on the heads. It can't hurt. But, if you want to make some power, and need the machine work required to do so, you're FAR ahead to buy a name brand aftermarket set. Been there, done that. Plus, MOST port jobs done by most places are total crap... and you're stuck with a couple of expensive door stops. Resale value? Forget about it! I got my 289 headed 306 into the 11's. It ran 7.48 @ 92 in the 1/8 mile. Most ported stock headed cars are lucky to hit the 13's. I had a TON of time in mine, and they had good parts.

Good Luck!
 

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NHRA 289's in S/S with oem iron heads run in the mid 10's or lower. no power adders allowed and stock carb or legal replacement.

like said before cost money and know what your doing
 

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1967 Mustang, Coupe, 289 2v, C4, Base
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Happy New Year Everyone

I was wondering if the installation of 194/150 valves in stock cast iron 289 heads will show big results without having the ports/ passages enlarged to allow that extra air/fuel mixture and exhaust to flow. The reason I ask is that I had a head issue cracking a stud boss and now have a set of 289 heads that I can swap all the larger valves and studs over. Or leave them stock. The cam is a roller 260hr Comp unit with the original heads having beehive springs. I could go the route of installing the Aluminum TF heads etc but this car rarely sees the other side of 5000 rpm...Driving mainly in the city and no track time...SO would it be worth my while, to have them redo the heads again or just leave the stock valves . Running tri-y 2 1/4 exhaust with magna flow mufflers...Probe pistons...balanced rotating assembly...Sucks that the boss cracked


Cheers

Greg
I'm new to the Forum, and late in the game . . . What was your final result to your head issue ?
 
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