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According to every car magazine and website I've read lately, every Ford small block has been stroked. Is that true, or are any of you running a stock displacement Windsor?
 

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My 351W in my Falcon is not stroked and is only bored .030.

However, if / when this engine scatters I am seriously considering short block replacement with an Ohio Crankshaft unit. Not to make the car go faster but in order to get a new casting that is race only instead of building from a 30 year old core.

Murff
 

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HankyJ

As goofy as your Question may have seemed to me at first glance ... I think your are spot on.


Anyone looking to build power (which would be the point of most builds for folks on this forum and the Mags) adding displacement is the single best way to get a leg up on the project.

I haven't stroked any builds yet, but then I'm behind the curve on most things I do.

If I build another motor ... I bet the ranch I'll be looking at a stroker kit and extra Cubes.


Murff

I love your SIG line ... It makes me feel much better about myself



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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 9/11/06 12:45pm ]</font>
 

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Stock 289 stroke here thank you very much
. I personally WANTED the short stroke of the 289 when I built it... wanted something that would turn 7000rpm without any worry of the bottom end coming apart. I guess I was just sick of the Bronco's 460 and it's 4500rpm redline, lol. Not that 460s aren't good for any RPM, but mine isn't, it's stock headed, mild camshaft, torque build... and I wanted something that just screamed in my new project


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'86 Bronco, 300hp 460, E4OD
'85 Ranger, 350hp 289, T5, [email protected] (1.96 60') on street tires


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Motorhead on 9/11/06 1:10pm ]</font>
 

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I have stock strokes in everything I own. I figure if I want to go faster, I'll turn them a little harder,tune them a little better or build some more compression.
 

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I guess I can kinda see the point though, I mean if you are planning to hit power levels where you want to replace the stock crank and rods, then why not for the same cost buy a stroker crank and rods? Not saying that's what I would necessarily do, but I understand.
 

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With the increasing cost of machine work, not to mention questionable results, delays and that sticky issue of "trust". Many guys are just not going to wait a month to get their project back on the road. For most street type rides, where there are no class limits or "tear-downs"...it's a case of let the buyer (barker!
) beware. If the guys selling "Wolf tickets" is still a "puppy"...it's not your job to inform him.

Plus, you can get a lot more cubes from an arm than from an overbore. Most of the newer engines, meaning engines that came on the scene after the late 70's, max "reliable" over bore is .015 - .030, it just ain't worth it to go any further, unless you have real good reason. You can get a stroker crank kit, balanced and supposedly correctly clearanced - sent to your door on "the big brown truck"... still driving your car, while putting everything together. If you get a spare block to help with the build, your down time is less than a week-end and you are back roll'in and riot'in. Best of all, if you are a "street sand bagger"... “no one knows what I got” – (stolen from "Lil duce coupe&quot
.

On the other hand, if you are building a real cruiser, the guy is bucks-down or can only afford a "top-end" performance upgrade...cam, heads, headers, ignition, carburetor/injectors or Supercharger/NO2 kit. Building on a stock block is still a good way to make decent horsepower.

As mentioned, there is more money, for the advertiser if you can get the guy to feel a little "inadequate". The same line they use to get women to go for implants.

A bigger engine hides a lot of PP tuning errors. The unfortunate fact is, seriously, there are more guys that don't know crap about engines ... but they do know how to warm up a credit card!! Face it - old school, Po'boy hot rodding is getting to be a thing of the past. You are not going to get much out of the junk yard, its Slim Pick’ins – ‘n getting worst by the day. When you do find decent working material, they guy wants E-bay money before letting go of his junk. The new cars are pretty much used up when they are junked and the price of old stuff is ridiculous. That leaves the only option of buying new.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 9/12/06 3:54am ]</font>
 

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Beoweolf you are right completely, there is less actual knowledge around and more people willing to spend money.

Part of that is because there's more money now than old parts. Or, at least, a big enough credit line.
 

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My 289 is the stock bottom, added new heads, 4 barrell, etc. But not stroked or bored at all.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: psivory on 9/12/06 8:37am ]</font>
 

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Thanks guys. I always get a big dose of wisdom from this group. I'm glad to know there's still stock size guy out there. I for one have a 302 (with 347 stroker kit in its future).
 

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What i dont understand is these guys building 331s and 347s If you are going to do it go buy a windsor block for a 100 buck and go to 393 or 408. A 100 bucks is pretty cheap hp for the difference in cubes.
 

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Well I for one would have built a stroker 302 rather than a 351 because the 302 fits no prob under the hood of a Ranger while a 351 is pretty tight with a stock hood. I'm sure the same is true for many other cars.
 

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I intentionally did NOT build a stroker because im sort of sick of the idea, I just liked the idea of building the inch that the car came with.
 

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No matter how much you spend or what you build to go fast someone else will be there to out do you.
 

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If you are going to buy pistons,rebuilt rods, and a reground crank, moving up to a stroker kit is very little extra money. I think the actual dollar number is something like 400 more. The 347 would give you an actual torque increase of 60 to 70 foot lbs, and a HP increase of50 to 65. If you want more performance, it should not be hard to decide which way to go. JOE SHERMAN RACING
 

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Well I for one would have built a stroker 302 rather than a 351 because the 302 fits no prob under the hood of a Ranger while a 351 is pretty tight with a stock hood. I'm sure the same is true for many other cars.
Yeah, I think I'm gonna have to really push on my hood to get it to latch.

Murff

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Murff on 9/14/06 12:34pm ]</font>
 

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I'm running a .060 351w but I would like to build either a 393 or 408 someday.....
 
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