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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am just about at my wits end with my car. It's not so much my car as much as it is my new motor combo. I thouht I would have a professional put something together this time, but as it turns out, it seems like my old junkyard motors were better. The motor I have just seems to keep leaking fluids. I'm talking about trans fluid and motor oil. It has been back to the builder and he has gone over it several times, but the F****** thing either drips when I shut it down or shoots fluid out when I go down the track or when I go into boost. I am so tired of this. This thing has cost me way more than I originally planned and now I just want to yank it and sell it. Everytime I take it back to the guy who built it, it cost me more to have him look at it and try to fix it and I can no longer afford to do that anymore. It has all good pieces, i.e. Dart block, Dart head, Eagle forged assembly and all other good stuff, but it just spews s*** onto the exhaust when I get on it. I am at the point where I would like to just get the leaks fixed and pull it and sell the thing or just sell the thing with the car because I am so aggravated right now. What amazes me is that the 70,000 mile junkyard roller motor I pulled and replaced with this one ran better and didn't have all these issues. The transmission also leaks and now I have to run a vent tube and run it a little low so it doesn't shoot fluid all over the place. I really wish I had never spent $14,000 (yes, I said $14,000) on this thing because I could have just picked up a 408 stroker crate motor for about half that and had no leaks, gone faster and been much happier. I will never have a professional build a motor for me again.
 

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man that sucks,i know the feeling though,and have learned from experience and heartache that if you get that fed up youre better off parking it up for awhile, instead of selling.
i think id be asking myself" why" it is leaking then work my way into the problem and fix it myself so i know its done properly.
theres gotta be a reason it keeps leaking.
good luck getting her sorted.
 

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Gotta agree with my country-man. I know it gets frustrating....been thru my fair share of issues last season, but there's gotta be a reason for doing whats its doing.
Still got your old engine? Drop it in, have abit of fun and when the mind's right, go back and have alook at the other engine/trans.
I am one of these people that never admit defeat, yeah I get frustrated and throw things at the wall....but I eventually work out my problem and fix it.
Talk to people with similar setups and tell them your issues, you may well find they have been thru similar problems. I think if you pull it and sell, you may well "loose" in more ways than one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know you guys are right! Thanks. It's just that I wanted this engine to be bullet proof and so far it's not. With a little more work it wil get there, but I think for now I have to put it away for a bit. Maybe I am just asking too much for an engine that is basically strip ready and wound pretty tight that I drive on the street. It is definitely something I would not want to drive everyday, but it is fun and should run mid 11's as it sits if I ever get it tuned. I just have to figure out how to make it down the track without blowing a smokescreen.
 

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I had an SVO like what you're describing. Fun car, but I was constantly working on it...even on break at work it seemed like I was doing something to it.

Best thing I ever did was get rid of it. I'm still kicking myself though. Fun car to drive and I miss it.
 

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IMHO if you can not work on your car because of lack of time or some other reason. I would definitly consider finding youself another mechanic. If you dumped 14 grand plus on this PROFESSIONAL CON MAN for just drive train work and your still blowing fluids and are taking it back to him to spend more, you have more money than you need and deserve to be taken. May be the local group of gear heads in your neighborhood can help you out and it will only cost you a couple of 6 packs or better yet donate a few grand to your local high schools auto mechanic class and let them do the work. I bet your mechanic drives Chebbies
 

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Better yet, go to the track and observe the fast running Fords....talk to those guys in the pit area, make friends, tell them the situation.
Racers *usually* help out other racers....the comroderie is generally pretty good.

Or, start from the beginning ( I know, I know!!).
Where is it blowing oil/smoke from?? Is it comming out of the exhaust pipes, or is it leaking onto the pipes??
Is it a leaky gasket?? valve cover gasket?? oil pan gasket??
Did the base of the intake manifold seal when it was put on??.
Have you done a compression test??
Is the rear main seal installed backwards??
These are just some of the things I'd check.
 

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The difference between your prior set up and this seems very significant. When you step up in the big leagues of power adders or simply add more horsepower, you will find that a number of things can change. Whereas the lower horsepower, lower RPM set up didn't seem to have many issues, a higher horsepower/RPM set up is going to demand you take a look at it every now and then, if you want to keep it running correctly. You're just in the middle of the learning curve that goes with your set up.

On my race car, I assume you have a C-4. I went down to Auto Zone or somewhere like that and bought a overflow set up that I mounted under the hood and ran a hose to the vent tube coming out of the transmission. Spewing fluid from transmission fixed.

If you're smoking going down track, it could be a number of things but it sounds like excessive crankcase pressure venting. My car is not a street car so I run a kit that vents crankcase pressure into the headers. If this is a street car, that particular kit (fix) isn't designed to run any kind of exhaust system behind the header.

You should get away from that "Pro". He sounds a lot like a guy who used to drain my wallet because he saw green everywhere! Join a local Mustang Club and see if you can find an ole hand to latch onto for guidance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have talked to some buddies of mine who are drag racers and they are gonna help me sort this problem out. They know about the problems I have been having with the motor and of the wallet draining fiasco because they have been through it themselves with the same builder. Believe me when I tell you we have had long discussions about it. I just think it's time to take things into my own hands and figure this out myself like you guys suggested since everytime I take it to the builder to figure it out, it cost me more money. The motor itself is good, it just should have had these issues taken care of for what I paid for it and my buddies agree. It is a learning thing because my old setup didn't have this kind of power and I know when I finally get it right, I will be happy, but now it is just so frustrating. I just want one clean pass before the season is over so I can put the car away for the Winter and know all is good! -Mike
 

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Ya, I know what your talking about. I got my car at 15, never drove it till 17, then i blew up the "just rebuilt" motor that was in it because someone put the rods on the crank backwards. Took all summer to build a new one. Put it together, then found out I should have opened up ring gap for kb pistons. It ran fine for the last month of summer after getting it together, then it was winter. So I pulled it back down, put in new rings, and opened up the gap, put in a custom hydro roller cam, and after getting that all sorted out, finally got it running again end of that next summer. Drove it 5 miles and stretched the stock head bolts. Put in arp head bolts and good head gaskets. Drove great for 3 months. Then I build a carb for it, took it out and it blew head gaskets 5 miles after building carb. Bought afr 185 heads and victor jr. intake. Pulled heads off to find out bolts didn't stretch this time. Block pulled up at head bolt holes. I got mad let it sit rest of summer and last winter started collecting parts to build dart block based 427" windsor stroker. Now late summer, I've got a rotating assembly ordered, block and heads are here, and plans are to have it running again next spring, hopefully. I'm now 21 and in the 6 years I've owned it I've drivin it maybe 4 months worth, put somewhere around 2,000 miles on it and spent way to much to count. But I know it'll be worth it when the next motor is in and going, cause it should fly. Goals are 625 horse at the flywheel. So just hang in there, we've all been through it, and it'll work out.
 

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I know where you're coming from dude. I've fel the same way as you.....ready to put a FOR SALE sign in the window!
I've been trying to tweek my combo for the last two years to run in the 12's where I felt it should have been. I finally did it though.
About a month or so ago, I was STILL running 13.4's after all the major mods I did over the winter!
It was a friday night and I told myself if I don't run 12's tonigh I'm selling this POS! I ended up running a 12.93 and then backed it up two weeks later with a better 12.85 I'm still trying to chip another .2 or two off the E.T though...
You just have to keep at it and keep trying and eventually, it will all come together and be all worth it!
I would certainly ditch your engine builder though!!
 
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