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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody out there have experience with a product line called POR15??
I read an article in Rod & Custom last year and they said this stuff was great for repairing and preventing rust in and on sheetmetal.
Looking for some feedback on long term usgae.
Come on, let me have it!!
 

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Yeah, it works great. Totally worth the money. Stops rust, coats rust, does everything it says it does. Finish is hard as steel. I used it on my entire roof. Check out this link.

www.rustpaint.com
 

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Everything I've ever heard is absolutely positive. I used it to do the entire floorboards and underside of my car. I really like the way it came out. One tip: don't buy their kits, which give too much of the stuff you don't need (masks, gloves, stirrers, etc.), and not enough of what you do need - the Metal Etch and the paint itself. Get the silver paint for most auto applications.
 

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i was wondering about that stuff too but i forgot what it was called, so how much paint would i need to the entire underside of my car? its a late model mustang, and basically with that stuff you just paint rigth over everything, you dont have to clean out the already rusted areas correct? i dont have any rusted through areas just occassional surface rust.
 

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I forget how much I used to do the entire interior floor and underside of my car. Check out the website www.por-15.com. If I remember it took two medium sized containers. (Sorry, I know that's lame.) Check out the directions on the site also.
You need to degrease the metal very well prior to using their Metal-Etch product. Then you apply the POR-15 paint. You can get away with wire brushing the loose rusty scale off. Then, be sure to vacuum up off all the dust, debris, etc. Just be sure your metal is clean: it's okay to be rusty, that's what it's for "paint over rust" POR.
 

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I bought a pint of por 15 about 6 months ago to coat the inside of my quater panels and still havent done it. Lazyness and getting sidetracked i guess got the best of me
But anyways so how much prep has everyone done? I was basically just going to use a die grinder with a wire wheels. Blast all all the loose crap of the quaters i could and then vaccume it out. Is this sufficient? Also how thick should i paint it on? thanx alot. MAN I LOVE THIS SITE!

Rich
 

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I used the gloss black to paint the roll bars in my racecar. It works great, brush it on, and the brush strokes smooth out flat when it dries and you cant even tell it was brushed on. The real nice thing is, you dont get overspray all over the inside of the car, and the stuff is hard as h*ll when it dries. But, whatever you get it on, its on for good. That includes your clothes, your skin (has to wear off), the floor, everything.
 

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My Morris was in a junkyard for 25 years before I got it back in 1996. The floor was rusted thru in a few spots but I just wire brushed it off,vacuumed the loose stuff and painted it with POR15. It has held up really good and I would highly recommend it. I only brushed it on the top side of the floor and no rust has returned. The only bad thing is POR15 doesn't have a long shelf life after being opened and even when kept refrigerated doesn't stay useful for too long.
 

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I agree with JustJim. Once you've opened a can you're committed. You can supposedly keep the excess in a sealed container (like an old Cool Whip container), but that's not really the case. It will go bad, or rather, get air to it and it will harden. So you're better with a few small cans than one large one. As far as prep, you don't need to go nuts. You just want to wire brush off the loose rust, dirt, etc., and vacuum it out. I went overboard with a 3M "sponge" type wheel attached to the end of my drill and cleaned off the metal more than I needed to. Just get off the loose stuff, clean off any grease very well, put their Metal Etch (absolutely required) on the metal as directed and wash it out well. LET IT FULLY DRY, before painting on the POR-15. I too used a brush and it came out brush stroke free. GREAT product.
 

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Some WARNINGS about POR beofre you run out and purchase it- the product contains Isocynates and that is why its shelf life is very short once opened. What this means is you are dealing with a product that contains chemicals that are MUCH more hazardous than typical paints. Isocynates CAN kill and/or subject someone to industrial asthma. Each persons exposure limit varies, some folks are so sensitive that even one exposure can result in severe health problems.
ISOs are what are found in clearcoat paints and are why to spray those you need COMPLETE protection and a supplied air system. Isos are absorbed thru the skin if left unprotected.(that's why you need to wear gloves with POR) In short they are not to be messed with casually!
You may want to surf over the www.autobodystore.com site and do a search. The owner of the site did a test on rust products on an ocean going boat. Complete with Pics. POR did poorly as I recall.
Two good products out there that are not as hazardous are Rassonil- which converts rust to an inert form and Zero Rust Paint. Rassonil is designed to be used under topcoat materials, in short any surface that will be painted with automotive paint and seen. Zero Rust is ideal for floor pans- frame rails etc. HTH
 

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Autobodystore.com is a decent site with a real good bodywork forum, but that guys always bashin POR15 I think because he sells his own stuff. He wants you to buy from him. I'm sure his stuff is great, but in my experience POR15 is good stuff.
 

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The fact still remains that POR15 contains isos. They are extremely hazardous. I wanted the original poster to be aware of that fact and make an informed decision.
Both of the products I mentioned can be purchased direct from the companies that make them and you can bypass him (autobody store) if you desire. The reason I mentioned the site was more to see the difference in performance via the pictures.
The Rassonil is amazing you can literally watch it convert rust. One big plus to it is, if you have to do any welding, if you apply it on even a 'clean' piece of metal it makes the welding easier and better. GM did a test on it and it strengthens the weld by 60%. And a little goes a LONG ways.
As I said wanted to give some alternatives- forgot to mention in the original post, Not affiliated with either product in any way. Juat trying to share info and knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
GaryL,
Thanx for the heads up on POR 15!!
I was not aware that this product or products like it were so caustic or that thier shelf life was so short. Of course there is no information to that affect on the POR web site.
I have ordered the POR 15 products but have not received then yet. I'm going to do some more homework before I open them.
Thanx again to everyone who has posted on this topic. You've been super helpful.
Finkster
 

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Gary L ,great info!!!!!!! The single greatest risk to using POR 15 is ISOCYANURATE RISK,THE RISK IS NOT REDUCED BY USING A CARBON FILTER MASK OR A LOT OF VENTILATION, YOU NEEEEEEEEDDD TO HAVE An AIR SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR. You can live with rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After doing my homework on this product, I have found that if you are brushing this product on, good ventilation and a mask with charcol filter(s) are essential. IF you are SPRAYING this product, the same precautions you would take when spraying clearcoat automotive paints MUST be taken!
Time to get to work!!
Thanx again to everybody who posted on this subject!!
 

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Finkster, Where did you get the info that brushing it on was safe? I would agree that as less paint is atomized less exposure would result , However ANY exposure to this is BAD. WE spend thousands on our cars , one would think you could spend $500.00 for your LUNGS!
 

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The proper way to use these products ( POR and similar ) is to coat the metal with the silver paint. It contains aluminum flakes that interlock. Use the black as a top coat only. The silver is far superior. Put two coats of silver followed by black or another automotive type of paint ( epoxy primer is good ). The silver is used as a primer on bridges etc. I use Masterseries rather than POR, but it is similar. POR does make the silver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
460Tom,
After searching the web and consulting with my doctor, it is agreed that there is risk when using this type of product.
Prolonged exposure without the proper ventilation and filters WILL result in respritory damage. However, since my expoure will be limited and I am not spraying this product, the risks are minimal.
I understand that this type of product is extremely hazardous. That's why I'm going through the trouble of finding out as much as I can before exposing myself to it.
Thanx, Mike



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: finkster on 6/6/02 7:49am ]</font>
 
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