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One thing I need to do on the '95 Mustang I just bought is to change the drivers door hinge pins. I picked up one at the local Advance Auto Parts store (Dorman # 38395). Says it fits '79 to '98 Mustang, but it looks way too long. I also got one for my '96 Tbird. The Tbird door hinge looks almost identicle to the Mustang hinge. I measured the length of both hinges were the pin goes through and they are the same.
Would the TBird pins work for the Mustang? I didn't want to cut out the Mustang pins before finding ones that actually fit.

Thanks.
 

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I KNOW this thread is 3 years old, but it came up in my google search on this topic, so i thought I'd document my experience.

I drive a 98 mustang.

I observed the same thing. too long. I wrote dorman and they replied, "yep, that's right for the job and designed for multiple years."
check - thought I'd try. I was going to cut it off and drill a new cotter pin hole.

except

the bushings don't fit. Outside diameter is too big. I tried jamming and it broke the soft metal.

All this AFTER I ground off the old pins. GRRRRRR. Trip to dealership.
 

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Since I was ultimately successful and I love the feel of the new hinges, I will post a bit on what I did and what I wish I had done. Also, there is a fox body example posted on the net which looks a lot easier than what I encountered on the later model.

Replace door hinge pins on 1998 Mustang Coupe. Proceed at your own risk.

I bought the "Help!" pins, which a) were too long and b) the bushings were too wide for the existing holes.

I built a little support frame for the door, since I was on my own. Leave to your discretion but do choose something that holds the door independently and safely.

With the door in place, I started by grinding off the top of pins. Top one was simple-ish. however, note that the heat generated in the process burned through dremel grinding stones like no one's business. It would melt the glue holding the mandrel to the stone. I was able to punch out the top pin but the bottom one wouldn't budge. I then used a cutting wheel to start cutting through the bottom pin. then...the dremel stopped working. I was kinda screwed. I reassembled the door as best as possible so I could close it and made plans to go to well-equipped buddy's place.

Once there, I first cut off the too-long pins to a measured length according to the outside dimension of the hinges. then, I drilled new holes in the hinge pins for the cotter pins. for this, I used the cut off piece as a drill guide, placed in position in a vice. Be really careful choosing the position of the hole. I found that on one, I was a bit too close to the hinge for comfort. It was very tight.

Then, after some fiddling I decided to just take the door side of the hinges off to allow better access to the existing pin that was still left. Worked so much better. I used a hacksaw blade held in a vice grips to cut through the bottom pin. It took a little elbow grease but got the job done. Trace the hinge with a marker before removal, so you have a reference for the position. since you have gone this far, you might as well make sure the door is perfectly fit when you are done, but this helps to ensure that you have a comfortable starting point.

The door-side hinges are the ones into which the bushings go. Removal of the hinges from the door allows this to be done comfortably on a bench. The bushings are too large for the existing holes, so you'll need to drill. My holes were true, it was only worn bushings, so this was not a problem. I chose 15/32" which is a bit tight for the bushings, but works. I could press them in a bit, then inserted the pin and gently hammered the bushings into place. The metal of the bushings is copper (or something like), is soft and can easily break.

Once I had the bushings installed, I then reinstalled the hinges on the doors and applied grease to all contact surfaces. Note, I used assembly grease to do this. Not adequate, I found out later. Use a lithium grease to do the job, according to internet searches.

After I was done then, I set to adjusting the doors. for this task, I only tightened one bolt for each of the hinges, swung the door to determine what adjustments need to be made. Here is where having a buddy is very helpful. I'll leave it to you to figure out the adjustment.

After all was said and done, I was very pleased. The doors opened without dropping and closed with much less force. I initially was scared like crazy to do this job, but after completing, I'd do it again.

Steps
1) Build support frame, but also have a friend to help support the door especially during the reassembly process.
2) Position support frame under car door, ensuring the door is secure.
3) Mark the position of the door-side hinge and unfasten from the door, to allow easy access to pin removal.
4) Use available means to remove the old pins - dremel with cutoff wheel, hacksaw blade, noting that the area is tight. I used a hacksaw blade held in a vice grip.
5) take the hinges to the bench and re-drill existing holes for 15/32".
6) place bushing in hole, and insert the pin all the way. Tap with a hammer until the bushing is seated. Repeat for the other 3 bushings. Note that the bushings insert from the outside of the hinges. Apply grease.
7) Reposition the hinges on the door according to the markings made at removal and install bolts. Tighten 1 only for each hinge.
8) Position door-side hinge in car frame hinge, and insert the pins. This might require a punch or something like (I used a long socket extension) to press in.
9) Insert and bend cotter pins on the hinge pins.
10) VERY carefully close door to assess door alignment. Note that the door could catch on the fender. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!
11) Adjust door, try again, repeat until satisfied. :)

I think I got everything. All the best with this if you are reading and doing this.
 
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