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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys, A while back I drained the cooling system on my ford. I drained and flushed the whole system and changed all hoses and even the thermostat. All good so far....then I filled the radiator as much as I could and cranked the engine over a few times to get the coolant back into the engine and put more into the radiator. I put the new cap on and watched the temp gage go to operating temp then saw it keep climbing! I thought the temp would go down once the thermostat opened but nothing!

I turned off the engine and let it sit for awhile before checking things out.....I added more fluid but it wasn't a lot. I restarted the engine and the same thing happened again! Before anyone asks I tested the thermostat in boiling water before I installed it. Again I let the system cool and added more fluid and restarted the engine....this time the temp went up to around 200 then dropped to 190 like it's supposed to do. I haven't had any problems since but is there a way to get all the fluid replaced in the block and radiator so you don't have the trouble i had on start up?

I've never had this problem on any other car but maybe I was lucky?
 

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You can:

  • Use a performance thermostat with bleed notch
  • Use a standard thermostat with poppet valve
  • Drill a standard thermostat flange for a bleed hole
  • Vacuum fill the system
  • Use a water neck with air bleed port
I prefer using performance thermostats as they not only allow air bleeding, but also regulate the temperature better. All of these methods permit the air trapped in the engine heads and manifold to be removed so that water is touching the thermostat. Water must contact the thermostat to transfer heat to it, or the engine can overheat without the 'stat knowing it's hot. Get the air (or most of it) out.
:tup:
David
 

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Make sure the tstat is installed in the correct direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's a 289 and I used a standard thermostat but I'll try a performance thermostat later or drill a hole in a standard thermostat.

I had one guy tell me all he does is fill the radiator and starts the engine and then continues filling the radiator....I didn't know what to think of that method.
 

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Most thermostats have a bleed hole or sort of a V slot. On a SBF 302/ 289 /351W style engine the bleed should be installed veticaly at the top of the hsg.

Unless you vacuum fill the engine or install a bleeder valve into the top of the water pump impeller cavity its never going to fill the water pump completely.
Signs of it not filling completely are water lines, similar to a bath tub ring, in the water pump impeller cavity, on the cover plate or timing chain cover (if is the style with no cover plate). Pock markes on cover plates which is caused by cavitation DUE TO AIR TRAPPED.

Purchase priemium thermostats I have had issues with the cheeper versions.
 

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Remove the heater hose from the intake manifold slowly and let the air escape from the system/block especially, reattach hose and jack the front end up to engine above level to help with purging the rest of the air while running.
 

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Remove the heater hose from the intake manifold slowly and let the air escape from the system/block especially, reattach hose and jack the front end up to engine above level to help with purging the rest of the air while running.
hAVE TRIED STUFF LIKE THAT even installed a bleeder in the heater hose. Still ends up with air in the pump. Had a bleed installed in the pump and everthing jacking vehicle up different ways the water pump would always let air out when the bleed was opened.
 

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I had a 180* thermostat in my Healey replica but the temp never got above 160*......took it out (180* stamped on it) and replaced with a NAPA 180* and the problem was solved!!:tup:

Perhaps you have a D-E-A-D thermostat??:confused:
 
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