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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I may have to add another 1/2" NPT port in the coolant passage on my Victor "Torker II" intake manifold. Any neat ideas for drilling and tapping without removing the manifold but still catching the cuttings? I'm thinking a mag drill with an annular cutter and vacuuming the hole after, maybe rags fished in from existing port on either side to prevent debris from entering cooling system. Am I stupid or what? 1969 Mach 1, alum 351W Stroker (427), with sending units for EFI, fan relay and dash gauge.

I appreciate old-timers with far more wisdom and experience than me, thanking all of you in advance...
 

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I drilled and tapped for a extra sensor right behind the thermostat. Just stuffed a rag in behind it and vacuumed it out afterward.

Jet
 

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I did a manifold a while back. Drilled 8 holes (one in each runner). Just removed carb, drilled, tapped, sucked out any shavings with a shop vac. No big deal. Grease on the tap and cleaning it often while tapping helps a ton. Also grease on the drill bit and cleaning the flutes helps. Grease, vaseline, etc. All does the same thing--catch the shavings.
 

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I bought an aluminum bung and drilled then welded, it gave me much more thread for the tapered sender. I don't think there is enough metal there to just drill and tap NPT

I'd bite the bullet and pull the manifold, not because you can't drill it, but then you can get it welded and it will be a better base for the sender

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So you have a line for your heater hose, a line for your Mass Flo computer and what's the third line for, your dash gauge?
 

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Exactly
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So what should I torque my intake manifold bolts to, and should I use washers? The intake is an aluminum for 351W and the heads are AFR 205cc aluminum?

Thanking all of you great live and let live folks in advance.....Adlai
 

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I had to drill out the oil dip stick tube hole in my car so I covered the drill bit completely in vaseline. I drilled a little at a time and cleaned the bit then re-plugged it in vaseline. If I lost any material down in the oil pan I haven't seen it.

With something as pretty as you are doing on there I would get the ARP stainless intake bolts. They have flared heads so you don't need washers and they are a very nice set of bolts. I have ARP just about everywhere on my engine. They make really nice bright stuff as well as the chrome moly studs and bolts.

If my brain is working right the torques are 25 ft pounds for the intake. You should re-check your head bolt torques after you crank down the intake just in case.
 

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Didn't know if I should back off some with aluminum threads...I'll go 20 and see how it feels, thanks.
25 is fine, recommend lubing the threads with anti-seize and be sure your bolt length is correct.

I like to use .250 less than full hole depth with an alum head. The more threads the better, but you'll be crying if it bottoms out, so check close
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks all for the experience, I'll update when I make some more progress (translation: I'll be asking more questions when I get stumped again!)
 

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Looks like my guy builds up a 1/4" or so pile of weld and drills down into it. Seems like that could be done with the intake on the motor.
tom

See my later post on threads
 

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Looks like my guy builds up a 1/4" or so pile of weld and drills down into it. Seems like that could be done with the intake on the motor.
tom. See my later post on threads


Remember those senders are NPT pipe threads, not regular machine threads. So when you tap, you should use a NPT tap. If you are using a threaded bung or a nutsert, those have machine threads and might not work out as well.
 
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