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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just pulled the drip rail trim off of my 63 Gal.
I wasn't going to do it right then, because I wanted to make up the right tool. I have seen online where people use a modified bottle/can opener.
Then I thought of the bottle opener I had on my key chain.
The kind that is about 1.5 inches in and is made mainly for popping the tops off of bear bottles.
I pulled out my key chain and gave it a shot. Wow!! It works perfectly, the way they are made you can adjust your grab and pop the trim up from underneath and just move on along the trim.
Anyway, just wanted people to know that a key chain bottle opener is the perfect tool.

If you have any doubts on how to do this check out this youtube clip:
Mustang Drip Rail Molding Installation - YouTube

I was afraid of pulling this off, but it was easy.

I was then able to get all the cracked old calking out, and yes there was rust wanting to start under there. Now I won't have to worry about that.

My 63 is getting closer to painting.

All the best
 

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Huh...Didn't think of that. I was about to buy a set of moulding tools at Harbor Freight, may give that a go first.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The harbor freight molding tool set is so cheap that I bought one. On sale for$ 5.99 I think.
I have used it here and there. But mostly it seems you can easily get under and start removing most trim without it.
 

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So how do you get it back on? After paint it must be a fight to open it up so it doesn't plow the fresh paint? One kink and it will never look right again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will cross that bridge down the road and will report. What ever it took to pull it off and clean the old caulking out and stop any rust will be worth it. This area was one of my main fears. You just look at that cracked caulk and know what is under there. And yes it was, but not that bad.
I need to figure out what to use to replace the old caulk and how to finish that off.
To busy with other projects right now.
Like I said I will report.
 

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I would to be able to see videos of the assemble lines where someone puts these parts on every 30 seconds or so, was reading something the other day and the guy was at the fairlane assembly plant and had like 60 seconds to hang a front fender on one. Wow talk about a long day.
 

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If you are doing your own primering, I suggest using only a minimal amount on the rail (where the chrome attaches) to prevent excessive buildup. I like to tape the rail after it has been evenly covered before spraying additional buildup coats on the rest of the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the info. I will look into the seam Sealer.
As far as the buildup of paint. I will take the drip rail down to metal and then paint.
Thanks for the tip about taping the rail to prevent excessive paint buildup.
I would think that if I go to metal and build back up, I should not end up with more paint than the stock application. The trim should snap on then without much issue.
I will also wait until the paint has dried hard before installing the trim.
I hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just took a close look at the drip rail without the trim on it. It does not appear to have been ever painted body color. It indeed does not have any paint build up on it.
It looks as though it was some primer/paint that was put on with one coat. My car is white and the drip rail is black/gray.
So I will get the rust off the rail and use the thinnest coat of paint/protectant and not allow the main body paint to build up on it.
 
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