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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It sounds so easy, so simple... "...just drop the tranny and...." I read it everywhere in these forums, but Ive never ventured near working on transmission, so excuse my ignorance. the bellhousing on my '63 352 has a chunk missing off the bottom of it, has had since I got it. Ive seen one going for $40 shipped, is that a good price? what happens if I just leave it cracked like that? Its done 3000 miles that I know of like that,

Just how hard/easy is it to change the bellhousing? Do I have to loosen engine mounts, use A frames, and all kinds of crazy stuff, or do i just need a wrench and a jack and some axle stands?

....:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just be tough, get some sockets and some jack stands and some wheel chocks and some beer adn go for it. It only weighs about 120-160 lbs. I am 45 and still pop them in and out all the time without a tranny jack.
LOL see thats what I mean... pop em in and out all the time, you make it sound like a sport :D

Im ok with that as long as it doesnt get uber tecnical, I dont want the car to be jacked up for a month and risk making it worse. I need a new inspection cover too so I was thinking I could just fabricate one, and leave it long enough that I could tuck it back to cover the hole. But if its genuinely quite straight forward Ill have at it. Gotta love the 60's tech! :D
 

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ohh and since you asked.

Jack up car sufficiently.

Drain fluid from transmission pan and torque converter

remove u joint at the differential. Put pan under driveshaft yoke at trans tailhousing. Remove driveshaft. When yoke is removed, trans may leak a lil atf.

Unbolt trans mount

Remove shifter linkage, kickdown rod, speedometer hookup etc at transmission.

Remove negative battery cable, remove starter.

Remove flexplate/torque converter nuts. This is easy to do with one hand, use a socket and rachet. Try to remove nut, engine will probably rotate... that is fine, keep rotating engine with rachet until it binds against the driverside of the trans.... the leverage will make it easier to remove.
Do that to the next one as well.

Place a jack loosely under engine.

Remove bellhousing bolts, make sure trans dipstick is unbolted from engine. If new, perhaps leave two bottom bellhousing bolts loosely into engine

Place jack under transmission, jack it up. Remove transmission crossmember. A basic floor jack, with a piece of wood under the transmission pan works, tho is unsteady. When in doubt, two rachet straps will help hold trans firmly on jack.

lower transmission until the engine jack is firm below engine. Remove any remaining bellhousing to engine bolts

Slide transmission back until disengaged

Lower jack, slide trans out from under vehicle.


installation is pretty much the opposite.
Only hangup is that some longtube headers need to be removed as the collectors will often make trans removal impossible. I also don't know the setup of your car, and there may be other things in the way.
I'm sure I forgot something, so forgive me, but that is the general gist of it.

Good luck,
Drew
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Phenomenal run down Mr Roots :) Thats extremely helpful in giving me an idea of what to expect. Im based in London UK, the car is in Key Largo FL, so Im basically amassing info and parts before going back so that next time Im there I can just get on with the work. This forum has proved invaluable!!:bow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Getting it out is the easiest part. Getting it back in sometimes is more of a pain when getting it all to line up. But still nothing major.
I hear that, I worked on a 67 VW Bug, easy as hell to get the engine out, 4 bolts and a Jack, getting it back in took a bit more skill, its all down to technique, but obviously you dont learn technique until youve done it a coupleof times....:D.
 

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yeah, was only asking location, because I have a shop in southern Ga. We could pull the thing out in no time.
Not to mention, I have a 63 galaxie in the shop as a parts car with a good bellhousing.
I don't bother with cruisomatics, I like c6 transmissions, so there is that.

Putting the trans back in isn't that bad. If you are new to this, two things that you need to watch.
1. Converter is all the way into the trans before install
2. alignment. If need be, use two threaded rods in the engine/ through the bellhousing and wiggle it up that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah, was only asking location, because I have a shop in southern Ga. We could pull the thing out in no time.
Not to mention, I have a 63 galaxie in the shop as a parts car with a good bellhousing.
I don't bother with cruisomatics, I like c6 transmissions, so there is that.

Putting the trans back in isn't that bad. If you are new to this, two things that you need to watch.
1. Converter is all the way into the trans before install
2. alignment. If need be, use two threaded rods in the engine/ through the bellhousing and wiggle it up that way.
Well, incredibly thoughtful offer sir, and thanks for the tips!! I hear the C6 is legendary, but Im just rolling about town, not racing so, "i think" the clunk-o-matic will be just fine.
Where in GA? perhaps you could use a trip down to the Keys, Ive ebayed the bellhousing, should be there next week, sooo if you swing by and "...just drop the tranny..." :p you can cruise the car down to Key West.. you know.. just to make sure its running right, have a nice weeks holiday. Just dont forget to bring her back on the way up though ... are you selling any of the parts on that '63? I could really use a windshield ..
 

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shoot. I can't seem to ever have a car with a good windshield :)
I've always got a few parts vehicles for my project cars/trucks.

I'm offshore working for another 3.5 weeks or so, the keys would be an expensive ride for me anyhow.
I never tried doing it, but I wonder if you need to remove the transmission all the way to change out a bellhousing. Seems to me, it could be slide back some, pull the converter, and change bell. Slide it back and be done.

Either way, good luck.
 

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thats a nice rundown on dropping it out :)

only thing I can add, the first time I pulled one was in middle of a snowstorm, no garage=out in the snow, I was 16, and it sucked...had no tranny jack, just pulled it out on my chest, wrestled it out/back in pretty easy. bad thing was, I figured just slide it off the torque converter, left it bolted to the flexplate, but wasnt expecting the torque converter to pour a half gallon of stinky burnt oil right in my face/hood of the parka style coat I had on - man did that make a mess :)

so, note #1: if the torque converter is stuck in the crank pilot, pulling the tranny back will leave it behind, big mess- also once unbolted, torque converter will fall out of the tranny if its tipped
#2: torque converter holds a lot of oil - some have drain plugs, but none of mine ever did...

before putting it back in, I would replace the front/rear seals, be careful to install the torque converter FULLY. it usually slips right in, just rock it to engage the turbine/splines, but about 1/4 inch from all the way in it usually stops... rotate back and forth 1/2 turn and gently push it in till the oil pump keys fall into the notches- Ive used ductape from torque converter to the pan just to be certain it dont slide back out and disengage...polish up the center 'button' on the converter and the crank pilot hole with some scotchbrite so it will go in easy, a dab of moly grease will prevent it rusting in place...once in the car and bellhousing bolts snugged up(rock the t/c as bolts are snugged up- if torque converter gets tight, pump might have not been engaged- stop and verify!), once all bolted up, pull the tape off and rotate the t/c to align bolt holes with the flexplate...have heard a lot of horror stories of tightening up with the pump disengaged breaking the tranny internally...
other than that, and dealing with a very awkward/kinda heavy piece of metal, its not as bad as it sounds.
swapping a heater core in a Mark VII sounds like a easy job...guarantee you could swap a half dozen transmissions faster :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the pointers Ford4V, that sounds like a nasty day, parka hood full of dirty tranny oil... I can think of better ways to spend an afternoon.

I appreciate the quick n dirty tips though, just what the doctor ordered!!
 

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yeah, that is why I mentioned draining pan and converter.
2quarts of atf doesn't look like much until it's on a concrete floor :)

Not draining, it'll also leak out the back of the transmission when driveshaft is pulled.
No drain plug on trans? no problem. Pull the modulator out as you tip the trans, a good bit will fall out that way (least on a c6, I can't remember on cruisomatics)

If it was me pulling the trans to swap bells, I'd be considering a shift kit and a new converter, new front seal as mentioned, also in the tail housing is a bushing the yoke rides on, it's typically worn out.
Hell, I'd just rebuild it, what am I talking about.

I also don't install a transmission pan without adding a drain plug. This place will help you, should you need parts:
Cast Iron Small & Med. Case Transmission Parts Ford - rear wheel drive
 
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