Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I dyno'd two recent builds last week, one was for a Mustang restored racer... the other, destined for a Galaxie but is a nice street PS/PB/AT engine, both pump gas and low maintenance

The blue one is 457 inches, C-scratch stroker, CJ iron head, hyd roller 241/241 @ .050, .630 lift, dual quad tunnel wedge, 545 HP/545 TQ, HP peak was at 6000, shift point 6400. Our goal was 530 @ 6000. This is rowdy 4 speed 4.11 street/strip engine




The second, different story, 14 inches of vacuum at idle, 461 inches. CX scratch block, RPM intake, Trick Flow heads, 233 @ .050 intake, 241 @ .050 exhaust, .598 lift, 113 LSA. This mellow monster made 558 HP at 5500-5750 and 594 ft lbs at 4000 rpm. It was a sweetie and would be a dream in almost anything






Hope you enjoy, the owners should have a BLAST!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Duals have the wow effect, but HP is HP and the single carb would be more fun to drive. Heads and cam make HP/TQ, but willing to share oiling secrets you did?
These engines don't have anything magical with oiling

  • I run an M57HV, disassemble, check clearances and make sure relief is free.
  • Blend the block to match the pump, but I leave the block passage at its standard size (used to be that people opened the whole galley up, need to be careful, castings can break through, so I stopped)
  • Later big port filter adapter
  • Clean up both head returns and valley casting
  • Tap all oil galley plugs to 1/4 NPT, to include the one behind distributor
  • Mains and rod clearance at .001 per inch of journal (these are std FE mains but 2.20 BBC rods)
  • Used to run FM bearings, but got away from them, clearances aren't consistent, now Clevite. The FM bearing design seems better with a 3/4 groove, but if you can't hit clearances, they are useless
  • I am oiling through the pushrods with Lykins Motorsports rockers (you can't do that with any adjustable or stock hydraulic rockers though)
  • Standard rocker oiling path blocked, set screw drilled with .030 feed (this is only because I like the shafts to see oil quickly, can block entirely, I keep dropping hole size, may go slightly less on the next one (if using standard oiling path I go about .070)
  • Always run a good pan on an FE, bigger is better, and baffles/trap doors even better if front sump
  • Pickup right at .400 clearance
  • 10w30 oil, needed for Morel lifters, but also helps in drain back
  • Pressure runs about 75-80 psi at full boogie

Lots of stories on FE oiling, but really, the most important things beyond careful attention to detail are: crappy oil pan and too much oil to the top. Those two things fixed are generally enough for all but the baddest FEs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
465 Posts
Most people forget that cleaning the oil passages and just a little help on the drain back holes will make a big difference. I also like to use a grinder and just round off the sharp passage behind the front oil galley plugs. Just to take that edge off the route the oil has to take.
Very good info. Thanks for sharing it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
TFS heads are certainly worth some power here.
Dare I say that the TFS engine was a full dish piston, maybe that was it :)

Inside conversation, but a decent point to make, both engines used Racetec Autotec pistons, the dual quad a flat top, the TFS heads a dish, and both with a metric ring set. The iron engine used Total Seal rings and the Alum headed engine, Mahle rings.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top