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Discussion Starter #1
In a previous post, I identified that I was having a coolant leak issue into the #5 Cylinder.

It was suggested that the head or the intake might be warped or broken in a way I couldn't quite see.

Short story: I took the heads to a machine shop and it was decided the heads are completely fragged. Long-term water damage, a few holes in random spots, and a strong recommendation from the machinist has pointed out that the heads aren't salvageable. He described them as a "nightmare".

In the same conversation, the machinist said "Hey, I've got these heads. Maybe you want them."

I have a 1974 Ford 351W out of a Ford Galaxie 500. He offered a set of E7TE-PA heads.

I'm interested in putting these E7TE-PA heads onto my motor to get the thing up and running as quick as possible.

The heads also have the rocker-arms still attached. I have the same hydraulic lifters, rocker arms, and pushrods that were in functional order before I pulled off the heads to have them inspected.

Here are my questions:

1) Is this an easy swap?

2) Do I need to purchase new pushrods? Can I re-use the pushrods I have?

3) Should I change out the rocker arms that come with the E7TE-PA heads with the ones that came off the stock ol' school 351W heads and re-use equipment?

4) Can I re-use the hardware from the head bolts?

5) Who has some torque specs I can look at?

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For those of you who always live by the "buy new hardware" lifestyle? I hear you. Finances are tight and I'm trying to do a "bottom dollar" fix so as to get the car running and be able to enjoy it a bit before the next big project of tearing down the motor and making it beefier.

I have experienced no other issues with the vehicle and last start-up (before I added water to check if things were fixed) was smooth.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Something to check into is how much you old heads were modified for valve springs and rocker studs. If it was clearanced for a high lift cam. If so all this work will have to be replacated on the new heads$$$
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Something to check into is how much you old heads were modified for valve springs and rocker studs. If it was clearanced for a high lift cam. If so all this work will have to be replacated on the new heads$$$
Thanks for the reply, Iowan.

In this case? I am under the impression everything was completely stock on this old school motor.

The machinist identified serious long-term water damage, and it might also explain the extreme level of rust found in the coolant journals both in the heads and inside the intake. The motor was bought in California on Craigslist, so it was a risk.

The only thing that I've found so far from my research has been that I'll need to have the bolt holes bored to 1/2 inch from 7/16th as it's a different head-bolt size.

The motor won't be getting the best breathability, but these heads could be invested in later down the road to open up their breathability.

I've been told that the torque specs would follow the 351W's original recommendation.

Does anyone happen to know anything about the rocker arms, pushrods, and lifters?

I was potentially guided to maybe buy new lifters.
 

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So the "new" heads are from 87 and later. Do the old 74 heads use stud mounted rockers, or did they change to pedestal rockers by then? I believe the E7 heads are pedestal rocker heads. Your 351W would be a flat tappet engine, so the lifters need to stay with the cam and stay on the same lobe they are mated to. If you're going from a stud rocker to pedestal rocker head the geometry could be different, so appropriate push rods would be required to have the valvetrain operate properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So the "new" heads are from 87 and later. Do the old 74 heads use stud mounted rockers, or did they change to pedestal rockers by then? I believe the E7 heads are pedestal rocker heads. Your 351W would be a flat tappet engine, so the lifters need to stay with the cam and stay on the same lobe they are mated to. If you're going from a stud rocker to pedestal rocker head the geometry could be different, so appropriate push rods would be required to have the valvetrain operate properly.

Thank you, 70XL. You are correct. The "new" (refurbished) heads are from a 1987 or later model 302.

The old 74 heads were stud mounts. It was a simple "torque down and go" mentality that allowed for easy readjustments.

I can see the new E7 heads are Pedestal Mount. Does anyone have a resource for torque specs for these? My limited experience with valve-lash on a Ford has been "tight enough to stay in place, but loose enough to rotate". I obviously don't want rattle in the motor, I understand that.

Getting this deep into the motor is a place I get lost. I have little experience with regards to motor geometry, push-rod length, opening and closing degrees on lobes, etc... I'm beginning to understand it more as I continue to dive into this project, as I have been for many years now.

If anyone has any other information on pushrods, I would appreciate it.

Knowing that I can use the same lifters / cam setup is helpful. That is definitely what I thought.

I am only looking to get the car moving at this point. No further work, performance, or others: she just needs to be able to move so I can play around with her a bit and keep her functional on the road.

Thanks to those that have replied.

Any other help is greatly appreciated.
 
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