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Discussion Starter #1
Doesn't show it in the pictures of my car, but my 30 year old paint job is dull, and that's probably giving it more credit than it deserves.

So, I decided the other day to try to bring it back. Picked up some polishing compound and went to work.

I'm pleased to say WOW, what a difference.

I learned that the key is to keep your applicator damp, and only do a small section at a time.

After the compounding, I waxed the section with Meguiar's cleaner/wax and learned something else.

If I left the wax on to dry, when I wiped it off, I could see swirls. But, if I took it off after just a little while, no swirls and you could still see a big difference between the compounded area as opposed to the compounded/waxed areas.

It will never look like new, but it sure looks better.

Unfortunately, I was too chicken to use the Girot buffers that I won when I got Letter of the Month (re: Death of Mercury) from Motor Trend.

The two buffers and all the wax/polish etc are still in plastic bags.

Someday..........definite maybe, I'll take a chance.
 

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Um....you forgot the pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Car's not done yet. Sandy set me behind.

But, I don't think you'll be able to see the difference in a photo.

Plan to finish the trunk this weekend, and I'll try to get a pic with one side done and the other side not done.
 

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I use Wet Paint for a quick shine before going to a show on my Galaxie (67 with original paint)
Works great, easy on, easy off and last months.
Works great on my 78 (original paint) ford van.

Yes, lets see those pictures.
 

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Car's not done yet. Sandy set me behind.

But, I don't think you'll be able to see the difference in a photo.

Plan to finish the trunk this weekend, and I'll try to get a pic with one side done and the other side not done.
Do a "in progress" photo, half a fender/hood etc. bet it would show then, with the right lighting. Just a thought.....
 

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Unfortunately, I was too chicken to use the Girot buffers that I won when I got Letter of the Month (re: Death of Mercury) from Motor Trend.

The two buffers and all the wax/polish etc are still in plastic bags.

Someday..........definite maybe, I'll take a chance.

Dont be chicken of the powah....lol go slow take your time and use minimal pressure....;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Dont be chicken of the powah....lol go slow take your time and use minimal pressure....;)
Way, way back in the early 60's, I worked as a helper in a body shop. (The Del Shannon/Runaway; Maris/Mantle days, for you older guys.) Very interesting job, for a car nut. Learned a lot.

(It was amazing to see what hitting a deer can do to a big Caddy and Packard, and seeing tooth marks in the metal dash of a 56 Ford from a head on collision. Ouch!)

So, I've been around buffers, but I've never used one on my personal car. This paint is so old, I'm too afraid to use a buffer.

I need the exercise anyway. Good for the arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do a "in progress" photo, half a fender/hood etc. bet it would show then, with the right lighting. Just a thought.....
That's the plan.

Lighting is the key.

I'm not doing the sides unless there really is a VERY noticeable difference.

The upper sections (hood, trunk, fenders, rear quarters and doors) take the biggest beating.
 

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Back in high school I picked up a $75 1971 ltd, it looked bad- faded paint in that 'all too common' light green metallic...blue coral waxed that car and it looked like new- I remember using 'star- bright' "vinylbrite" on the roof- it lo looked new, and never streaked...

The blue coral was definitely a workout, but man did it bring that old paint back.
 

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I might have to look up that Wet Paint stuff. I use Zymol and a buffer. 15 yrs ago i had to do every inch with rubbing compound to get rid of purple spots. I have tried stuff today but it doesn't do a thing. I'll be fine till too many show up and then i'll go nuts...almost did seeing the other red gal next to me at a car show that was covered in purple spots like mine was back when. lol

That peacock color is difficult to get a pic of unless like they said, find the right angle and lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

after



before


No luck taking a full car pic to show before and after, but here's a closeup of a bulb's reflection in the trunk, one side "before", one side "after"..

The dull side had been waxed recently. The clear side is a result of compond and wax.

Nasty weather tomorrow, but I'll try to post a few complete car pics over the weekend.

Hard to see it in the pictures of the car that I have posted before, but the whole car had the dull picture look. Now, it looks like the clear side.
 

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What do you use to stop the polisher from throwing polish all over? I have a 7" electric but can't use it because it makes such a mess!
 

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A large Apron. That's part of buffing.
You may be putting to much polish down to start with.
I spread the polish thin with the buffer pad before starting to buff.
 

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A large Apron. That's part of buffing.
You may be putting to much polish down to start with.
I spread the polish thin with the buffer pad before starting to buff.

X-2... Yes its gonna fling stuff around, but sounds like your using to much to start with, as was stated, shouldnt make a huge mess, Just some residual sling off. Also the D/A style buffers are less messy...
 

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A large Apron. That's part of buffing.
You may be putting to much polish down to start with.
I spread the polish thin with the buffer pad before starting to buff.
X2...
before buffing .. i usually go over all flat surfaces first with soapy water and 1800 - 2000 grit wet sand paper

spread rubbing compound thin and even with small pad or rag, as if you where doing it by hand..
then go over it with buffer. small sections at the time..

i also use a foam buffer pad (that really brings out the shine) after applying finish/glaze polish
forgot the name , think its Duponts " 3M perfect it II "

then hand wax/polish...

detailers usually wash car after done..
then dry off with chamie...
to get all residual powders/dust from polishing componds out of nooks and crannie's

it's a lot of work...but when it's done...WOOW what a diffrence...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I went strictly with arm power,

After the compounding and Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax, I tested a small spot with TurtleWax liquid.

Color actually got deeper, so I did all the previously treated areas with the TurtleWax. The shine is great, not HiDef quality, but pretty decent for an old paint job.

In the spring, I'll consider doing the sides. If there's a noticeable dfference, I figure I'll do a section at a time to conserve energy.

Five/six days should be sufficient.

In 1962, while working in a body shop, one of the guys painted my 57 Olds 98 convert Honduras Maroon/GM metallic red (over the original white.)

He did a terrible job. (We think the compressor air pressure may have been too low.)

Anyway, it was suggested that I sand the car with 400 grit and gasoline. I did.

Result, the paint job came out looking like a mirror. Great shine and a real deep look.

Beautiful car.

Sold it to buy a 57 BelAir so that I could hit the dragstrip on Sundays.
 

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Anyway, it was suggested that I sand the car with 400 grit and gasoline.
HOLY SMOKES....:eek:

it actually worked...
i would expect it to be silver metalic after that treatment...:D
 

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The paint used back then was formulated totally different than they are nowdays... I have heard old timers talking about using gasoline as a REDUCER...:eek:
 
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