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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My car was idling abnormally long and I shut it off and didn't wait long to
Start it back up and when I turned the key it started to run again for a second
And stalled out, now upon start I have very rough idling and no real change from pulling plugs, also the oil pressure is 0 now Please help
 

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Pull your distributor cap first, and see if the rotor turns while bumping the starter over. You may have sheared the distributor shaft pin, which would cause an issue as described. As for what cause the pin to shear, that may require pan removal. Bits of junk in the oil pump could seize the pump, and cause the pin to shear. It could just be age, too...
 

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I had a oil pump lock up before going down the road, it sheared the pin in the distributor gear and the trucked died, the rotor (distributor shaft) and oil pump wouldn't turn. The motor turned over but it just spun the gear on the distributor shaft


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Right. And the OP said his engine runs. Rough, but it runs. Oil pressure is the primary concern. So, the timing gears, chain and cam are working. The dist gear is probably also OK if it's running, though I would inspect all of that before sending it back out on the road.

The only thing iffy is the oil pressure indication, and that (if true) would be a snapped shaft, busted pump gear, jammed pressure valve or blocked/cracked/dropped pickup. So, I'd say FE is on it. BUT - but before I did all that work I would check oil level and then take 2 minutes to screw a pressure gauge in just to verify. No pressure test gauge? Pull a valve cover to look for oil flow while cranking or running. If you see flow, there is more than zero pressure, and you need to find a test gauge. Just trying to save some work and money here.

David
 

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in another thread, he mentioned its a 250 I-6... I never worked on a old inline, do they still use dist driven pump?
Gary, is there room in a old mustang to sneak a 6 pan out? just wondered as from memory of my old 300, the pan seemed a mile long :)
tim
 

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I have a 65 with a 200 I6, given a different engine, but knowing the 69 engine compartment is larger than mine, I wouldnt think its an issue to pull the pan after unbolting the engine mounts and lifting it up a couple inches.
 

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Pull your distributor cap first, and see if the rotor turns while bumping the starter over. You may have sheared the distributor shaft pin, which would cause an issue as described. As for what cause the pin to shear, that may require pan removal.

Bits of junk in the oil pump could seize the pump, and cause the pin to shear. It could just be age, too...

Rotor will ALWAYS turn unless the timing chain or cam is broken.

Go no further until you pull your pan and oil pump. Or headaches will ensue.
Please explain FE, how a rotor will turn with a sheared drive pin?
 
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