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Well that time of year here in AZ! Gotta sneak the Cougar through emissions. Not so tough with ny little 302 but it got me thinking? Who's got some good tricks? Do thoes store bought fuel additaves work??
 

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I have never done it because I don't have to worry about emissions, but... Someone told me if you have about half a tank of gas in your car, put a bottle of rubbing alcohol in there. After you pass the test, empty the tank and fill it up again...
 

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i dont know about az.... but here in colorado when a vehicle has classic plates in will never have to go through emissions again... i drilled and drilled the ladies at the county courthouse about this, because i hate emissions... i ended up getting classic plates on the maverick.
 

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We have a "hotrod status" here in Canada if you have changed the engine that has a little looser limits.Its kinda funny I have a 82F-100 pickup that I just pulled a 1969 429 Thunderjet out of that I had ran in it for a few years.I replaced the 429 auto with a 300 six, three in the tree, for my emmisions test.Since the truck was originally a 302 it was considered a hot rod cause I had changed the engine.I almost peeeed my pants when he told me my old six-banger was considered a hotrod ,after I had just pulled the 429 out
 

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Change your oil, do a tune up, and make sure all of your emissions equipment is there. Don't let the car idle for more than a few minutes before the test and make sure the engine is to full operating temp. I really don't think those additives work, but who knows, you could try and cross you fingers.
 

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synthehic oil works wonders on emissions test also lossen a muffler clamp a little bit of extra air in the system along the same line a small vaccum leak will induce more air into the system lean out fule system
 

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LOL I've been trying to pass emissions tests too. I took it in last week and failed both the driving on the rollers and the idle test. Adjusted the timing and gapped the plugs, it ran better but still failed. So I changed the jetting on the carb. Better but not enough. Then I noticed raw fuel coming from the left exhaust pipe and that it was not as hot as the right. So I took off the driver side valve cover and found 2 bent pushrods, 1 broken rocker arm, and 1 broken stud. I took off the heads and took them in to check for any other damage, it was fine. I had the stud replaced, bought a whole new set of rocker arms and pushrods, droppped them in and the car runs way better. I took it in to test again yesterday, but my rear brakes were not working when they tested it, so it was an automatic fail. lol I'm gonna work on my brakes today, then hopefully run it through emissions again. These test are a pain in the ass.

I've heard the alcohol in the tank too. I never tried it, so I can't really say if it works or not. Same with those additives.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: rod n az on 4/3/02 4:45am ]</font>
 

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Here's a trick that helped me . . . have your testing done by some knucklehead who's not paying attention!

I failed the first time due to a bad carb, so I replaced it. When I went back for the second test a different kid was there and spent time adjusting the idle mixture to get the numbers down. It passed. As I was leaving he asked if I knew why it had passed, and he said it was because he was just damn good. I almost replied that maybe it was because he only put a probe in one of my two tailpipes!
 

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First, try to do it legally. Most additives don't do much. a Well tuned engine is the first step, but you want that anyway.

One thing that helps the idle readings is to increase the idle speed. I run mine at 900rpm. The other is to lean the carb primaries one step. I have a 70 351w in my 66 Mustang and I always pass easily. A real lumpy cam will kill you though.
 

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I have the same problem passing emission tests. I run an edelbrock carb and I just jet real lean and up the idle a bit.

I am curious about timing though. Does more advance at idle promote a more complete burn?
It might be worth bumping up the timing or just hooking the vac advance to manifold vac for the test.
 

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If your car doesn't have converters on it, go to the junk yard and get a pair and bolt them up. That will help tremendously, but becasue it is extreme I'd do it as a last step. Also by having the smog pump, which increases the heat of the exause which aids in converter light-off, you shouldn't have a problem, in California they don't check the exaust system.
 

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All these replies from california are making me nervous. Would my '67 Cougar have to be smogged in California? I ask, because the first day I got the car, the smog stuff was the first to go.
 

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Well, living in california and owning a '74 el camino, I've played the smog game. California is able, if they want, to make any car from '65 onward smogable, whenever they feel like passing the legislation. But since your car is a '67, your in the clear. I have heard that the new law passed will allow all cars 30 years or older smog free, and every year it will roll over. So next year, '73 cars will be smog exepmt, and in 2 years, '74 year cars will be smog exempt. But that law can be changed at any time. The bottom line is to hold on to your smog stuff even if you take it off.
 

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I have found 3 things which have helped me:
1. Have your idle mixture screws adjusted.Half a turn can make a tremendous difference!
2. Retard your timing.Try 5 degrees first, then even more. I had to retard mine 15 degrees- it worked like wonder.
3. Pour a gallon of antifreeze alcohol in a full tank of fuel-worked for me.

I have tried all of these in my 351 W with different cams, intakes etc.The best cure has been just simply have the idle mixture set up by a pro before the test!
I am sure the emission tests and limits are different in all parts of the world, but at least these tricks have helped me here in Finland.
 

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Well, depending on what they do for the smog regulations, here in California they will adjust your timing back to stock for that year, for that engine. That trick won't work, unless they don't check the timing. Good Luck!
 

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Back to the California smog thing, All cars and trucks 1965 and older are smog EXEMPT forever. They had no smog control of any kind and therefore can't be smogged. So if one owns a 1965 , or older car truck ect. you can sleep easy. The 1966 thru 1973 cars are "exempt" from bi-annual (every two years),only because of an exemption status granted by the State . So the State may revoke the 1966-1973 exemption on those cars at any time they wish. So a 1965 can get away with anything that you can put under the hood!(or thru the hood,if that rocks your boat)
 

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Don't have to worry about it in MD for the old cars, but I've used 'Emissions Pass' to get failing cars to pass. I put it in a half a tank and the CO number goes almost to zero, CO2 goes up. Says it's legal......
 

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You're right Tom, I stand corrected. I do know in fact however back in the '60s that my dad had a '54 ford that he had to retro fit for the state. The smog people mandated him to have a PCV valve system and a gas tank vapor canister. Hopefully they won't do that again.
 
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