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Hi Guys,

I am just about to start the build of my 393 windsor using all new components, (except the block). Can anyone advise if Optimoly PL Paiste is suitable as an assembly lubricant, (can it be used on the cam assembly also)? If Optimoly is not suitable can anyone advise of an alternative?

Thanks,
Martyn
 

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Use regular 30wt oil and Crane Cam lube and they're breakin additive. Also for new oil on start up use Rotunda 30wt. only due to the newer oils don't have the right additives in them anymore and lots of new cams are getting wiped on startups. Prime the oil filter and prime the engines oil system to. All that fancy stuff just plugs the oil filter at startup, IMAO.
 

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I use 80-90W gear oil. Stays put and is loaded with Moly and Zinc.
 

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Hi Martyn,

Ive used Reddline engine assembly lube throughout the build so far, I wanted something that was going to stick well as, perhaps unlike a lot of engine builds on this site, I know the motor is going to sit for at least a year before its fired. Im going to change the filter and oil after the first firing anyway so Im not too worried about the lube starting to clog the filter as its only got to last 20 minutes!

Mybe Im miss guided but thatst the way Im planning it. Hows it going?
 

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I do not like assembly lube, Some can turn hard after a long time sitting. The gear oil i have used. STP i have used. And just Motor oil 50w. Even if motor sits a long time before startup. When it is finally startup time i prime the engine with clean fresh motor oil. I have even then changed that oil so as to remove all the assembly lube.
You will need something high in Zine for a flat tappit breakin.
You should always prime the engine oiling system before startup.
 

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I agree, priming the oil system is very important. Most guys dont do this and I dont know why. With the distbributer out, find the correct socket that fits the oil pump drive shaft and a long extension and hook it up to a drill and spin it in the direction of the dist rotation. Do this for a minute or two. You can even take a look at the oil pressure gauge and see what it looks like. Do this just before you fire up the engine. The lifters will even be quiet.
 

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On my 302 it was a 5/16 inch socket. Make sure to tape it to the extension (dont want it falling off). If you pop off a valve cover just wait untill oil starts coming out of the rockers then you are ready to go.
 

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In addition to spinning the pump drive shaft, you should manually turn your engine over a 1/4 of a turn at a time, and then resume priming. Do this for full revolution of the crank, a 1/4 turn at a time. As mentioned, once you see oil coming out all the lifters, your done.
 

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I have to tell you that when i first assembled my engine I started to do the priming thing and forgot to plug the oil port. After mopping up about a pint of 20-50 Valvoline racing oil.
I THEN did exactly that (1/4 turn etc.) priming it . What i found was about 6 lifters that were ROCK hard. Near solid.
Now i understand that 20-50 is old school and i plan on changing it to 5-30 later but for now its in there and it will be fine for breaking it in.
I talked to my Co-worker who used to be a ford tech and has built "untold number of 302s" and he mentioned that Yes you have to be carefull when you prime it not to go overboard. And thats its better to have a SLIGHTLY loose valvetrain than a tight one with overly pumped up lifters when you fire it. Lifters that are too tight can let valves hang open which will burn them up in a hurry.

my .02c
good luck

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71 Pinto,5.0 Roller block,B303,1.7 Rockers,Crane beehives'68 302 portednpolished heads. Cut n re-welded,coated Must II headers,Rpm Airgap,Holley 570,Msd dist steel gear,Crane HI6
"The MONEY PIT"

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 71hotrodpinto on 5/24/06 9:50am ]</font>
 

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I use plain black Moly Lube "paste" ... I've built about five engines over the past six years ...

I've dotted all the "I's" and I've crossed all the "T's" on some ...

Then I have just assembled parts and fired it up ...

(this usually being after an Initial Cam Failure on one of the "T" crossing and "I" dotting adventures.)

Moly Lube is great stuff and it will never leave the place you put it on


Most of the rest of the "priming the oil system" and "rotating the crank in 1/4 turn intervals" and the "use of special oils" and "whatever?"

Hasn't proven to me to be worth a rats rear end ... because most of the failures I've experience happend when I took special effort to do things exactly right ...

Then after A Failure and that frustration ... ... ... Then throwing caution to the wind on that stuff ... (not to be confused with failure to assemble the motor correctly to begin with)

I have had them fire and run flawlessly to this day using ZERO special Oiling "Techniques" on initial start-up.

Take it for what it's worth and I'm not saying "Don't do it." ........

But some of that stuff is akin to the "Witch Doctor" ...

Or so it seems to me.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MonsterMach on 5/24/06 12:17pm ]</font>
 
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