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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting ready to pull my engine while my car is painted. I need a rebuild so I'm looking for suggestions. I currently have a 351W .040 over with forged pistons, an Edlebrock torker II, a Holley 750 double pumper, and World Products heads(iron). I 'd like to build a 408 I think. At first I'll use the same heads to save some money. I'd like to use a hydraulic roller. I talked to someone today who was going to use a Scat rotating assembly with I-beam rods which they said would be around $2500. Then another $2500 for everything else and dyno. I don't want to go cheap but that seems high. I'd also have to find a block most likely. I can buy a CHP 408 short block for $2800. Any suggestions or comments?
 

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You don't mention a power adder, so I'll guess this is a n/a application.

The $2500 sounds real high for a SCAT rotating assembly even if it's with a forged crank. Which IMO, you wouldn't need.

I'd contact Brian at www.adperformance.com for excellent pricing and products. Customer service is outstanding as well. I bought my SCAT 408 kit and AFR 205 heads from him and won't hesitate to use him for my next project.

There are plenty of CHP engines out there with very satisfied customers. So that wouldn't be a bad choice either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since my block is .040 over already with a 4" stroke I don't think I'll have a 408. The block is a '74 will it handle a .060 over bore? Then I would have to do a 414 correct? Would that work?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: drksuroo on 1/8/07 10:06am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: drksuroo on 1/8/07 10:07am ]</font>
 

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If the block is still fine at .040 over I wouldn't bore it more just to arrive at a certain number..The engine doesn't care what size it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No I won't if I don't have to. I just wanted to know what it could handle if need be.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: drksuroo on 1/8/07 11:03am ]</font>
 

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The Ford small block (351W included) are not recommended for more than .030" over bore. I have seen some live pretty good at .040" but I have seen a couple at .060" that would not stay cool - even with aluminum radiators that were over size. If you can get another block that can be cleaned up at .030" then get it. (it would be nice if it was a roller block. Then you can use factory rollor parts and a 400M crank stroker kit.)
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. I have actually located a stock bore 69/70 block so hopefully I can use that. I read somewhere that the deck height is a little shorter so I'll have to make sure it all fits.
 

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Early blocks have a shorter deck height (not a lot, but shorter...can't remember the numbers...something like 9.506 vs 9.46something
). Have your block sonic checked at the machine shop, it's not expensive and they can do it while cleaning and checking for cracks. If it sonic checks ok, you can bore it to whatever the shop recommends.

That solves all questions regarding boring over .030" =).

Also, http://www.fordstrokers.com is another place to go to do the stroker kit thing =). Woody's got great prices, incredible customer service, and aside from a customer service PM system...he also uses the forum (I'm a moderator there) for some great tech info. It definitely never hurts to look around for the best deal and service though.

Good luck with your build!

Cris

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If you can't beat 'em...you must not drive a Ford!!




<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Is1BadFord on 1/16/07 12:54am ]</font>
 

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the older block has a .040" shorter deck height. The Ford flat top pistons used on the '69 4 bbl Windsor were made for that block. If you are buying aftermarket pistons that are forged flat tops just check the piston to deck height. You should have at least .015". Unless the decks have been milled you shouldn't have any problem. When you check the piston to valve clearance Ford recommends .070" for the intakes and .100" for the exhaust. With good rods and bearings a forged piston doesn't need quite that much but a cast piston expands a bit more and that clearance will be reduced when you run hard with cast pistons.
Paul

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PaulS1950 on 1/15/07 8:49pm ]</font>
 

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Actually, the exact opposite is true. Forged pistons expand considerably more than cast. That's why forged piston engines have piston slap until they are warm, from skirt clearances to accommodate extra expansion.

C'mon Paul...



http://www.glmmarine.com/castvsforged.html

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: MaxPower on 1/16/07 1:52am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So the engine building has begun and a problem has surfaced. As I said before I'm building a 408 using a '69 block. I have a forged Eagle rotating assembly. The pistons are .040 too high.('69 block .040" shorter) What's the best way to remedy this? Thanks!
 
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