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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For some reason the 302 in my 1963 Falcon isn't sitting level. If I put the hood up, and looking at the car from the front, the engine sets 1 inch or more lower on the passenger side than on the driver side. When I put the car back together a few years ago, I didn't notice it and I don't recall if the engine was sitting this way when I bought the car. I replaced the motor mounts, and I'm positive I put the new motor mounts in (right,left side) the way I was told to by the parts store,so I don't think that's the problem. I was told that the mounts that are bolted to the frame on the early Mustangs had a right and left side to them, so I would asume the Falcon mounts are the same, is that correct? What could be the cause of this unlevel engine?

http://www.smallestparrots.com/falcon1.jpg

http://www.smallestparrots.com/falcon2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was told that the motor mounts that bolt to the frame on the early Mustangs had a right and left side. I know that I have the rubber motor mounts that bolt to those mounts on correct,but I don't remember if the engine set this way when I bought the car,or before I pulled the engine for rebuild. I had this car all apart and found some real rigging on he way it was put together by the other owner.I'm thinking he may have put the other mounts I'm talking about in on the wrong sides.
 

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Yes, there is a right and a left motor mount. If they are backwards, they move the engine either more forward or rearward (I don't remember which.)

You should check for a broken rubber mount. The early mounts need some strengthening bolts ran through them to prevent them from separating.

Torque may have caused the misalignment. The early stud mounts offer some adjustment. Loosen up the "big" nuts underneath and jack up the engine slightly. Rock it back and forth or pull it to the side until it is more even. You might need to loosen up the tranny mount nuts too.

Is it possible you put spacers on the driver's side to help correct a clearance problem, such as for header tubes?

_________________
Dennis

65' STANG, 3160 lbs

393W NA, 2.78 Toploader 4 Spd, 9" 3:70 Posi
Pro Comp Heads, Vic Jr. Intake, 750dp, 236/561 Solid Cam, 9.6CR, 1 3/4" Headers, Lakewood, Subframes, Caltracs



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 9/10/06 7:05pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 9/10/06 7:05pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Dennis,so if I understand you.if the right , left side mounts that bolt to the frame are on the wrong sides they will move the engine front or back but will not change the side to side elevations on the engine ? No I didn't use any spacers for header clearance,I have Hooker super comp pluss headers and they fit perfect.
 

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Bob,

Yes, that is what I remember about the motor mounts--you get front to rear problems, not side to side.

Also, some brands of motor mounts have the studs located at different positions in the rubber. I bought a couple of pair from different places before I found a set that had the studs in the correct, as factory, location.

Perhaps a quick look from underneath will reveal the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Dennis, I was looking at the motor mounts today and it looks like the rubber motor mount on the driver side is thicker than the passenger side.I may go to the auto parts store and order a new set just to see what they look like.
 

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The V8 Falcon mounts are made up of the left and right frame mounts, left and right intermediate mounts (V shapped with stud). and the left and right motor mounts. The frame mounts attach to the lower part of the shock towers with three bolts. It's possible that rust or other damage has caused one to sag. The frame mounts have large square holes where the intermediate mount attaches that allow some laft to right and front to back movement but not much. It;s likely that you have a bad rubber mound to missmatch set. Early Bronco mounts are often used to raise the engine a bit is needed. You may or may not have a factory belly bar that connects between the shock towers ender the engine. You should invest in one if you don't have it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a belly bar,and the car is sound and solid.I didn't have the mounts that are bolted to the frame off, but when I had the engine out everything looked good and solid.I'm really starting to think that the new rubber mounts I put on (about 6 or 7 years ago) are the problem.I know that every one removes the heatshields on the motor mounts because I threw mine away on a 64 Fairlane that I had back in the early seventies. This may sound stupid and I know that the heat shields are put on for this reason but, I just wonder if the heat from engine could raelly cause the rubber mounts to swell like this ?
 

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i had a similar problem in my 66 mustang.passenger side leaning just like yours.just as extreme..
rubber was all bad.tried a new mount with rubber..still leaning.
i have a slight vibration in my engine and alltough not very extreme it's causing the mount to deteriorate very quick.went to soild TCP mount.engine sits totaly level and vibration is actually better(now from 2100-2600 rpm)
also..
not sure if it's set up like a mustang,but loosen your trans mount aswell when you try to level the engine.so that your engine is not beeing pulled down by the trans.
my 2 cents..


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 9/11/06 10:24am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you know I was thinking of going to the solid mounts but had concerns of the vibration I would think they would generate,is there any other problems with running them,what did you pay for your solid mounts ?
 

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On 2006-09-10 19:38, bob1963 wrote:
you know I was thinking of going to the solid mounts but had concerns of the vibration I would think they would generate,is there any other problems with running them,what did you pay for your solid mounts ?
With the heat shields and the following mod, solid mounts are not needed:

http://www.erareplicas.com/fiaman/engine/mountmod.htm

So far, they have held up fine with my 393w stroker.
 

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i should correct myself.the TCP mounts i run have a urethane core so it's not 100% a soild mount. with a proper balanced engine i would not have any concerns with using them even for a regular plain cruiser car.i experience my vibration now as minimal and pay no real attention to it..and i know my engine is not balanced properly...also as a plus,the response is quicker on the car as all force from the engine is pushed rearwards and the engine will not flex on the rubber mounts..it feels more alive. will be doing both track/strip and street with mine.and want the engine to sit as firm as possible..read NOT MOVE..i allready have a dent in my hood because of a rubber mount starting to separate..

it all depends on what you can live with.i like my car to feel a bit "racey"and a little shaking only adds to the feeling for me..(it's subtle shaking..not parts falling of shaking).as an indication of how much sturdier the mounts are..before if i rev'd up the engine it would raise the engine quite a bit,up drivers side,down passenger side...now the whole car twitches instea, and the engine sits still...sweet.

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/motormounts.html

these are the ones i run at a 199$.. i'm sure you could fab up some as well,but i went the quick route..and payed for ready made.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 9/11/06 12:08pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: terlinguaterror on 9/11/06 12:17pm ]</font>
 

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Get it fixed... It's uuuuuuuugly.... and that's a fine looking ride!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I had the engine ballanced when it was rebuilt so I could use solid mounts or the modification that Dennis used,just looking at the driver side mount and the more I think about it, I may have gotten a defective mount or the heat did get to the mount.the difference in the thicknes of the mounts from one side to the other looks like the difference in the way the engine is setting.
 
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