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What's been your experience on cost to send a motor out for a mild rebuild. Here's what I have

1966 Galaxie 352 4 barrel - all stock. Quote I got today was for $4500 to bring it up to around 325hp (I didn't get the details of exact cam, etc) but was told that the price included cam, headers, new intake and Carb (again don't have specific details), minor work on the heads, clean up of the block, electronic upgrades and all work necessary to make it look good under the hood. I'm in California, so take into account some factor of higher prices (seems like everything out here costs way more than it should). This quote is from a builder who came recommeded as someone who knows the FE motor.

Trying to get an idea as to whether this is on target or off base. Care to share your cost for similar rebuilds and give contact info for reliable builders?

Thanks for the input.
 

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It will take some not small time head porting, and a decent cam and intake to get neat the 400HP mark with a 352... And $4500 sounds a little high even for here in cali. Figure the machine work at about $2,000 (that counts boring back to true, a crank kit with bearings, putting on the new pistons and paint work on the block and heads, and mild head porting), intake manifold $350 (list price of course...) Carb $300, Pistons $150... I can get you to 350 HP for about $3,100.
Seeing as the stock 352 in 1966 with a 4V had right at 250 HP stick with slightly over 9:1 Comp, a set of aluminum heads would greatly increase your chances of hitting the 400 mark, and still might keep you under the 4K amount.
I'm in Nor Cal if you're of a mind!

FE
 

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I'm assuming you number includes removal and installation? and a warrenty?

It dosent look like a bad number considering it includes an intake, carb, headers, Ect. and 325hp is a realistic HP goal for a 352.

Alot of people on here are going to tell you its way to expensive and they can make alot more hp for less...... so why aren't they doing it for a living ?!?!?!

But in all reality to have a shop do a complete performance rebuild add all those parts and perform all the work the number looks fair.


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1991 LX Mustang 347 C4 combo 11's with the AC on.
1984 Mustang GT 460, Powerglide "Still putting it together" hoping for 9's !!
1929 T-Altered "In the works" 8's are on the horizon

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dfree383 on 5/23/06 5:12am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dfree383 on 5/23/06 5:13am ]</font>
 

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Yes it does... In a 66 I have no issues charging little to remove it and replace it, there's plenty of room...

That's NOT counting going with aluminum heads... I will do some research and put up another price if he want's to go that route.

FE
 

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Ask to see some of the shops work, if you like what you see and are comfortable with the shop its fair. Like I said everybody on here can make more HP and do it cheaper that anybody else...............................Life with the internet.
 

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I'm not sure where you are located in Cali but here is San Diego there is a place called RC Machine in El Cajon and they quoted me $1700 out the door for a stock rebuild with a little cam upgrade. They sent me to a head guy also in El Cajon and I gave him three sets of heads and $200 and he gave me back a beautiful set of heads.

Edelbrock intake is only $250
Carb another $300

Labor to pull in and out was $100.

I decided to do the top end myself and they have two blocks and three cranks I gave them and they are cleaning them up and using the best. all for about $700 with new pistons and refurbed rods.

I say too much!
 

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I can do it cheaper and make the <U>same</U> amount of HP because I 'AM' the shop, and set my prices accordingly...


To make noticably more than the 325 my price is thus, but, to make someone Quake with Fear when he drives by it would still be less than the shop but not much less, and that wouldn't include hedders....

FE
 

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On 2006-05-22 14:26, FALCONAROUND wrote:
I can do it cheaper and make the <!-- BBCode Start --><U>same</U><!-- BBCode End --> amount of HP because I 'AM' the shop, and set my prices accordingly...


To make noticably more than the 325 my price is thus, but, to make someone Quake with Fear when he drives by it would still be less than the shop but not much less, and that wouldn't include hedders....

FE
The only time I make people quake with fear is when they see my heading towards the bathroom!
 

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Labor to pul and put was $100 Bucks???? Hmmmm OK...

I was only stating a round price on the intake and carb surf... List price on a carb is near $400 bucks... List not Cost...

You guy's have to let me dream while I can dream!
 

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Yeah I ended up pulling it myself. I am not even using the block and crank from my original motor. I picked up two blocks with 3 sets of heads and two sets of rods for $100 from a buddy who is big into the 70's era ford trucks. He had a crane so I used that to pull mine. Save a penny here and there gets me more go power for my motor.
 

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I can give you about 420-440 HP for about $4,800. That includes $1,300 Aluminum heads, intake, and a numbers matching Autolite 4100 for the '66 Galaxie. AND a 2 year guarantee, unless you race it and break it into tiny little pieces.... I don't recommend over 350 HP on the stock rods so stronger rods may be necessary and may be hard to find for the 352... But not impossible.

FE
 

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jhovis, a few thoughts on your rebuild:

I'm kind of getting the idea from your posts that you want a strong engine that will perform well when you mash on the accelerator, but will also be useful and a pleasure to drive in typical city/highway driving. If you're building a drag car, please disregard ALL the following thoughts.

The bottom end of the FE motor is very strong. Few builders, outside of out and out 7K rpm racing, need a cross bolted block, a steel crank, LeMans rods and other expensive exotica.

A budget smart rebuild can utilize the factory mains, rods, and crank, but do consider ARP bolts properly torqued, checked and triple checked for proper torque.

Get the block blueprinted so the rotating assembly suffers no offset bindings from sloppy factory work. Carefully balance the rotating assembly. This makes other work you do a better investment, helps the engine run smoothly, and reduces fuel consumption. It's well worth the modest expense when done properly.

The major investment in the rotating assembly should be hyperuetectic or forged pistons with Perfect Circle moly rings... this is because the FE comes alive with COMPRESSION!!!

A minimum of 9.5 up to 10.9 compression will work on pump gas, depending on your geographic elevation and local gas octane. You can go up to 12 if you have access to Aviation gasoline or can spike your gas with toluene, xylene, or racing fuel. Just be sure not to leave home without it!

Heads: C4AE-6090-G heads work well for compression up to about 10 to 10.5, but if you seek compression above that number, consider some Edelbrock heads, 390 HiPo, 406, 427 lowriser, or 352 HiPo heads. I prefer factory cast iron heads mentioned above with proper porting if needed. These heads give good flow and have small combustion chambers to help elevate compression.

The heads can be fitted with stainless steel CJ valves and dual springs to accomodate increased flow from the properly ported heads. Use factory adjustable rockers for slightly greater lift and better valvetrain adaptability. Pocket the bores of the 352 block to unshroud or provide extra space for the larger valves if needed. Some machinists may recommend the 406 valves. They're pretty good too.

Now camshaft. Boy, everybody has a favorite, but here's mine:

For anything other than serious racing, big numbers are a waste of fuel, develop poor torque at street RPM's and fail to perform at any RPM under 60-70 MPH. If you're going to street this car at ALL, avoid the ego grinds and go for one that will actually work well for driving conditions usually encountered.

I find that a lift of .385 and a dual grind duration of 214/224 is really nice. This is a modernized spec fairly similar to the 390 Police/HiPo grind, and is a good compromise between high RPM HP and low-mid RPM torque needs for the large Galaxie. My preference is for a solid flat tappet cam, which does require periodic lash adjustment and minor modification to the block to reduce the oil your block is set up to provide to the factory hydraulic lifters.

However, if you prefer a hydraulic lifter because that's what your ballet instructor insists upon
then a .400 lift and 224/234 dual duration grind is pretty keen IF you use Rhoads adjustable lifters. Now some folks don't care for Rhoads lifters, but a freshly done engine properly vatted and cleaned, regular oil changes and a good quality oil filter keeps the Rhoads lifters in fine condition (www.rhoadslifters.com ). You'll appreciate the increased low-mid RPM torque with the larger cam.

Now for intake. If this car is going to be street driven, avoid the ego intake manifolds. An Edelbrock Performer 390 will work fine and is very cheap, since most folks are under the impression that low- to mid-range RPM torque is of no value in stop light driving around town (wrong). The Edelbrock RPM and Blue Thunder manifolds are great for higher rpm's, but are also great for making the engine run less well under 3000 rpm. Again, don't confuse good performance in typical range of driving with the needs of quarter mile drag racing

The Holley 600-700 vacuum secondary carburator is a nice mate to the Performer 390 intake, and will perform well in the under 4000 rpm range. You will get almost NO benefit from a larger carburator if you intend to street drive the car. These are cheap and easy-to-work-on carbs, too.

Headers. I totally hate headers for the street. The long headers are a complete pain in the posterior in the Galaxies because they loosen up frequently, they drag the ground and get beat up bad, and they often sound tinny. The steel shorties are just an ineffective gimmick to make dudes feel like header he-men, but with little flow benefit. If you MUST have headers, find a pair of factory cast iron '65 FE long headers.

Otherwise, use a pair of the larger pickup truck log manifolds with exits nearly like those of the car manifold. The pickup manifolds take a 2.25" pipe while the car manifolds accept a 2.00" pipe. Go from a 2.25" inch pipe at the pickup manifold with a conical adaptor to 2.50" mandrel bend dual exhaust pipes with H-pipe crossover. Exit in front of the back wheels using Spintech mufflers. You'll LOVE the sound, the flow, and be glad you avoided the horrendous hassle of headers. This system will flow very nearly as well as headers and 2.5" pipes up to 4750 rpm.

Spark. Pertronix in stock distributor, good plug wires, good coil, end of story.

And also, do yourself a favor and sh*tcan the automatic tranny. The FMX and C6 transmissions are the best way to eliminate 15-20% of your new engine's power to the pavement. Not to clever, doing an engine up right then pissing 20% of it away through a boring slushbox, eh?

My last build along these lines came to just under $3,250 last year.

Note: I'm not saying other approaches don't work. I'm just saying this approach makes the compromise between hot performance and good economy and pleasurable driving in a steet car. Don't be confusing these suggestions with "How to Build The Fastest Quarter Mile Dragster in California."


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: farmallmta on 5/24/06 2:28am ]</font>
 

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Very Well said Farm! BUt I do think that some hedders would improve the breathing a lot. Factory truck manifolds have a lot of immediate back pressure because they provide no curvature for the flow of exhaust gases to flow with. They are thin and right angled to the exhaust port and restrict FE's more than they should...
But you mentioned a very good but hard to find option


FE

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*WARNING* This car is a Sleeper, and is NOT powered by the infamous 170 ci, 105hp weakling you all know so well... It is Powered by the Mighty Power of a .040 Over 200ci 1 1/2bbl, POWERHOUSE making nearly 123.6 hp! I'LL SMOKE YOU!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FALCONAROUND on 5/24/06 3:19am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
farmallmta - You just proved why the Internet and forums like this one are better than... you get the idea. Why go out an reinvent the wheel when so many others have done exactly what you want to do.

You summed up what I'm after - a streetable car (will be my daily driver) that has enough spunk to make my heart pound from time to time. I'm sure people out there will differ in your opinion on the specifics of how to accomplish this - there are more ways to get to the same result than what you have described, but, what many of us reading this forum needs is a place to start. I'm new to Galaxies, FEs and restorations. Without the kind of detailed answer you gave I'd spend way too much time getting an education the hard way. Thanks for taking the time to share in such detail.

And to the rest of you who have posted your thoughts here and in the many other posts I've read - your time is most appreciated. Any more thoughts are welcome and will be put to good use. Thanks & keep up the great info flow!
 

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WOW! My eyes hurt from all the reading. I am stroking an FE 360 to 433 so my costs are a little above norm. Edelbrock doesn't tell you that you need all new push rods and such with their heads if you have hydrolic lifters so add that in and the heads run close to $2k when on. I have to disagree on headers....FPA makes some really nice stuff! They aren't cheap but they do work nicely and have 4 bolts per exhaust tube. Back to prices...add for a SCAT stroker kit and a Comp Extreme Energy cam and the work to put that together and your closing in on $4k plus the heads. If you really want to make engine and tranny work you add RPM manifold, 800 cfm thunder series carb, 2200 Cruis-o-matic stall converter.... I went about 1/2 extreme on my build and will end up in the $8k range. Not saying YOU have to, just saying you can get stupid with your money...like I did. You'll probably never be really happy with a 352 in a heavy Galaxie. Just not enough stroke and cubes to get you moving quickly. I don't race but I don't want to get smoked by every stock Chevy product out there either. Just my two pennies.
 

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Why don't you go on www.tbolt.net, based out of houston and get a 390? I know the 352 is cool and vintage, but the 390 was available then. A long block for the 390 is $1095 including core charge there. Put a $250 Edelbrock intake, a $100 rebuilt holley 600 cfm carb, a $200 Comp hydraulic bump-stick, and headers? Reuse all the tin pieces that don't come on the long block, & rebuild the distributor. And as far as core is concerned, they actually want more of a core charge for the 352! It's like $300 vs. $200 for the 390 core charge! There's 325 horse, maybe more for around $2000, and they have a warranty. Factor in shipping (no idea on that but would it be more than $400?) and you could have a good streetable engine for a lot less than $4500. This is the route I'll end up going when I get money saved up. Till then, it's just drive like it is for me.

Brado

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: shadesogrey on 5/24/06 11:50am ]</font>
 
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