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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all!

After scrounging all my paychecks for a few years this summer I am finally going to take my first passes at some test and tune track days and 1 or 2 arm drop events near me!! I am pumped and currently cursing the snow! I was hoping to share my set up and perhaps get some predictions for I am new and really have no clue what to realistically expect other than lots of fun lol.

NOW to the car

It's a 1969 Falcon. Street/Strip

Pretty much street trim. not overly gutted or stripped.. although I may look at losing some interior and little bits of excess weight.

6 point cage
Frame connectors
Caltracs
Springs moved in with a wee bit of axle shortening/light wheel well work
Comp Engeneering 3 way adjustable drag shocks 90/10 front, 50/50 rear
9in posi w/ 4.11s and strange 31 spline axles
28 x 13.5 ET Streets
C4 Full manual/reverse w/ Hughes 4000rpm stall

347 Stroker 10.6:1 comp.
Scat cast crank
Scat forged I-beam rods
Wiseco forged pistons
Summit under drive pulleys
MSD distributor
MSD blaster coil
Street Fire ignition box
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 heads
Comp ultra gold 1.6 roller rockers
Hydraulic roller lifters
Ported Victor Jr intake
Custom grind cam ((no numbers yet.. Sorry!))
Pro-Systems custom 780cfm Carb
Hooker Competition Headers
Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers
Pipes turned out before rear tire for deafening V8 thunder hehehe.

maybe once I get comfortable with the N/A set up and research a tad more I might hit it with a 100-150hp shot of spray.

I know me as a driver is going to need some seat time but what would you guys think I could be looking at times wise once I am at home with it??

Thanks Alot!!
 

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Low 11's, possibly high 10's if everything works right. What fuel system do you have?

Stock tank will likely cause lean out if it's not sumped. If it's not sumped make sure it's near full.
 

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Lots of good stuff there. It would be nice to know what cam but I believe it should be in the 11's in the quarter and maybe break into the 10's after some motor/suspension tuning and a good pair of drag slicks. It will probably need to lose some weight too, though.

I would suggest dropping out the 50/50 rear shocks in loo of something with more adjustability. Shock tuning is crucial to wittle down the 60's and help correct for track conditions. Although dual action type are best (and quite expensive), but a pair of Rancho 9 ways can get the job done.

You will also find that the bias ET Streets are just so-so. Not very consistent at the track. A better option for a street/strip car would be Hoosier QTP's which are more capable in both applications. Having dedicated strip slicks and street tires would be the best scenario.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey guys thanks for the replies. I like the sound of those numbers :) as my goal one day is to run in the 10s. I am actually having a fuel cell made and it is sumped as I couldn't do the stock tank with the spring move. I currently run a volley mechanical 110gph pump but plan to upgrade as I go. My rear shocks have 3 adjustments 70/30, 60/40, and 50/50 is how they came. Would one of these do the trick??. Also I will be looking to get separate street tires and slicks once I can afford it. For now I was just looking for a good best of both worlds set up haha. I am not opposed to Hoosiers at all.. I just read they were no good for driving on the street. A lot of the someone spits out the window and you are eating the ditch sort of thing which I know what is the case for both I just was told they were worse than et streets for that and to not put them on the street. But if that's bs I would def look at those instead! Also as for weight what would be some easy options to cut some?? Again thanks a lot guys
 

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Each car is different and no one can tell you what shock setting will work. Maybe start with 70/30 and try them all. You will get tired of unhooking the shock to make the adjustment. The DA's and Rancho's use knob type adjustment. I can tune my car soft for the street and hard for the track in about 3.5 seconds. More shock adjustment is definitely better. Just a small adjustment can make a world of difference.

I recommended the QTP's for their straight-line dry road/track performance. They do quite well then under hard acceleration. Any tire without tread will be slippery when the road gets wet. Sometimes it takes lots of self control to get home after a little sprinkle. They also are not good with lots of road course type maneuvers. Best to not put yourself in such circumstances, thus the 2 sets of tires recommendation.

The more you tailor your street car toward the track, the more you take away some of its street capability. Mine does hit the street BUT I learned along time ago to respect its capabilities as it can get wild. Just don't put yourself in a position that pushes the envelope-you'll loose.

Weight loss comes down to what you don't need. Pay particular attention to anything in front of the driver. Use fiberglass and aluminum to replace heavy original stuff. Toss one of the horns. Move the battery to the trunk. Remove the front sway bar. Use light weight aluminum wheels. Remove the heater core. Its just something that you work at. A pound here and there add up.
 

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Good job on the fuel cell.

Traction will likely be your biggest challenge, tire pressure makes a huge difference. Keep notes, you may have to go pretty low to get some bite and really low does not feel great while going through the traps.

I'm using DA shocks and love the ability to tweak 8 knobs to go from street to strip.

Have fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks alot guys this has been a HUGE help! and it is really appreciated.

I am glad the QTP's were brought up because I was originally looking at and favoring Hoosier when I first began searching for a sticky street tire. They seemed to have more sizing options and I had heard really good things about hook up ((and to be fair I am a sucker for those white letters hehe)) but then seen "designed and approved for D.O.T. class racing only. They are not approved, nor recommended for any kind of street use" on Summit when pricing so I checked a couple forums and seen the favor of the MT's.

But I was fortunate enough to atleast have experience as a passenger to what these types of tires are like in any kind of wet as my dad had the ET Streets on his Cuda and we got caught in the rain quite a few times lol so I knew it was going to be a little sketchy regardless but I am glad to hear I can open up the Hoosier option again.


That being said I definately had the respect for all cars really but especially the old muscle car and their power just by being around them growing up.. but it was especially drilled into my head when I started looking to buy my own haha. I learned even myself when I first got the car it was running with a mild built 302 and a not so fantastic street tire and I happened to be coming around a corner on the way to a shop that had a wee bit of dust.. I wasn't even trying to act foolishly but when I changed a gear and it gave the tires a chirp that almost put me around in a circle I learned to be more careful REAL fast haha.


As far as street goes right now so long as I can jump in it and drive the few minutes up to work or take a bit of a night cruise and make a bit of noise on pump gas without Johnny Law taking one look at it and saying never wanna see this car again. I am more than happy haha.


I again appreciate the help you have given me lots to look at and a good base to work for to reach my goal. Hopefully I will have some times and pictures of my own to contribute this season!!

LOVE the Mustang btw! That is a beautiful sight!
 

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Hey all!

After scrounging all my paychecks for a few years this summer I am finally going to take my first passes at some test and tune track days and 1 or 2 arm drop events near me!! I am pumped and currently cursing the snow! I was hoping to share my set up and perhaps get some predictions for I am new and really have no clue what to realistically expect other than lots of fun lol.

NOW to the car

It's a 1969 Falcon. Street/Strip

Pretty much street trim. not overly gutted or stripped.. although I may look at losing some interior and little bits of excess weight.

6 point cage
Frame connectors
Caltracs
Springs moved in with a wee bit of axle shortening/light wheel well work
Comp Engeneering 3 way adjustable drag shocks 90/10 front, 50/50 rear
9in posi w/ 4.11s and strange 31 spline axles
28 x 13.5 ET Streets
C4 Full manual/reverse w/ Hughes 4000rpm stall

347 Stroker 10.6:1 comp.
Scat cast crank
Scat forged I-beam rods
Wiseco forged pistons
Summit under drive pulleys
MSD distributor
MSD blaster coil
Street Fire ignition box
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 heads
Comp ultra gold 1.6 roller rockers
Hydraulic roller lifters
Ported Victor Jr intake
Custom grind cam ((no numbers yet.. Sorry!))
Pro-Systems custom 780cfm Carb
Hooker Competition Headers
Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers
Pipes turned out before rear tire for deafening V8 thunder hehehe.

maybe once I get comfortable with the N/A set up and research a tad more I might hit it with a 100-150hp shot of spray.

I know me as a driver is going to need some seat time but what would you guys think I could be looking at times wise once I am at home with it??

Thanks Alot!!
Sounds like a pretty good build for calling yourself a noob. Good luck and have fun!
 

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I built a 331 and a C4. I gutted my 91 coupe and I am running [email protected] I have a tubular K member that I will be installing after the next race and hope to hit the 10's. It sounds like you will be close. Weight was and is a factor as well. The more you can shed the quicker you can get. One thing I just did that helped was coil overs in the back. I went from best [email protected] to [email protected] from just coil overs. Good luck and above all, have fun!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
That is excellent numbers 10.60! if I were ever to hit that or close N/A I wouldn't be able to get out of the car because standing up in public would be an embarrassing event haha. even 11.13 with the 331 is awesome!! that's one fast street car if you are down in the 11s and that would be pretty exciting my first times out if I make it down in those ranges.

thanks on the build comment aswell!! I have just been cruising the forums for a few years trying to narrow it down based on others experiences. I know the itch for more is going to get to ya regardless but I dropped back to the 347 in loo of the dart block 363 i was originally going for just for cost. in the end i kind of wish I had stuck to my guns because the whole point of trying to do a decent build was to try and get more of what Im after the first time around instead of starting small and wanting more a week later haha.. but i figured it would be easier to save for something like that later while I have a motor in the car having fun as i save to get a short block and a few changes down the road then be parked for a season or 2 more lol.

the itch for burnouts got to me haha
 

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I though 10.60s was the **** too, then went on to 9.40s then 8.90s all n/a 400ci. Was fun but I regret it now, too much money spent.

I had the most fun wrenching on a Cleveland powered mustang, working on the suspension from 10.70s to 10.20s, never lifting a valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
holy **** running those numbers would be scary in the best kind of way!.

I fear but absolutely know some day if I ever hit my mid-low 10 goal I will be there for a while and go hmmmm I bet 9's would be awesome haha orrrr as stoked as I am if I eventually got there someone I realllly want to beat will kick my ass and that will be all it takes haha.

yeah I just wanted to get a nice base then start having fun learning and tweaking lol
 

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Always want more more more. But let me tell you, when you think its all its got, its just not true. Always pay attention to what your car should 60' for the et its running. Then its the engine, timing, lash, stall, weather, jetting, air bleeds, engine temp, launch rpm, shift rpm and so on.... good luck, and have fun with it.
 

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Had a 347, similar combo, 10.60s. With more attention to detail, could have been much quicker. That thing spun to 7K easily.
I am curious, was this a stock block. I have my rev limiter set at 6500 and I am hitting it before the 1/4 mile. I have been thinking about raising it but just nervous with a stock block.
 

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I am curious, was this a stock block. I have my rev limiter set at 6500 and I am hitting it before the 1/4 mile. I have been thinking about raising it but just nervous with a stock block.
Yes, Mexican block. Not much difference. Caps a hairline thicker, still has cap walk. Definatly raise it, ide rather run a couple more rpm than stutter it at 6500. Bring it to 6700 and work your way up until it runs out without hitting the limiter. If its a 6al, ive had problems where the pills aren't accurate at rpm limiting.

How far from the stripe are you when it stutters?
 

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Digital 6 plus. It hit the rev limiter at about 100-200 ft. before the stripe. I'll know more after Saturday's race. Usually they have test n' tune between rounds. I plan on bumping it up
 

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Definatly raise it, ide rather run a couple more rpm than stutter it at 6500. Bring it to 6700 and work your way up until it runs out without hitting the limiter.
Agreed. It is typical for racers to push it a little above redline at the end when geared to do so and the motor is still pulling. I doubt if you're close to any type of destruction by holding a 331 under 7K (or even a little more.)

I too have the digital 6 and suspect that it is no better than the pill type 6AL as far as upper RPM accuracy. I do like how it tames the cylinders better when on the 2 step vs the blatant cutting out of the 6AL.
 
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