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Excited N00b, 1st race car, 1/4 mile predictions

7K views 34 replies 7 participants last post by  Berserker 
#1 ·
Hey all!

After scrounging all my paychecks for a few years this summer I am finally going to take my first passes at some test and tune track days and 1 or 2 arm drop events near me!! I am pumped and currently cursing the snow! I was hoping to share my set up and perhaps get some predictions for I am new and really have no clue what to realistically expect other than lots of fun lol.

NOW to the car

It's a 1969 Falcon. Street/Strip

Pretty much street trim. not overly gutted or stripped.. although I may look at losing some interior and little bits of excess weight.

6 point cage
Frame connectors
Caltracs
Springs moved in with a wee bit of axle shortening/light wheel well work
Comp Engeneering 3 way adjustable drag shocks 90/10 front, 50/50 rear
9in posi w/ 4.11s and strange 31 spline axles
28 x 13.5 ET Streets
C4 Full manual/reverse w/ Hughes 4000rpm stall

347 Stroker 10.6:1 comp.
Scat cast crank
Scat forged I-beam rods
Wiseco forged pistons
Summit under drive pulleys
MSD distributor
MSD blaster coil
Street Fire ignition box
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 11R 205 heads
Comp ultra gold 1.6 roller rockers
Hydraulic roller lifters
Ported Victor Jr intake
Custom grind cam ((no numbers yet.. Sorry!))
Pro-Systems custom 780cfm Carb
Hooker Competition Headers
Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers
Pipes turned out before rear tire for deafening V8 thunder hehehe.

maybe once I get comfortable with the N/A set up and research a tad more I might hit it with a 100-150hp shot of spray.

I know me as a driver is going to need some seat time but what would you guys think I could be looking at times wise once I am at home with it??

Thanks Alot!!
 
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#3 ·
Lots of good stuff there. It would be nice to know what cam but I believe it should be in the 11's in the quarter and maybe break into the 10's after some motor/suspension tuning and a good pair of drag slicks. It will probably need to lose some weight too, though.

I would suggest dropping out the 50/50 rear shocks in loo of something with more adjustability. Shock tuning is crucial to wittle down the 60's and help correct for track conditions. Although dual action type are best (and quite expensive), but a pair of Rancho 9 ways can get the job done.

You will also find that the bias ET Streets are just so-so. Not very consistent at the track. A better option for a street/strip car would be Hoosier QTP's which are more capable in both applications. Having dedicated strip slicks and street tires would be the best scenario.
 
#4 ·
Hey guys thanks for the replies. I like the sound of those numbers :) as my goal one day is to run in the 10s. I am actually having a fuel cell made and it is sumped as I couldn't do the stock tank with the spring move. I currently run a volley mechanical 110gph pump but plan to upgrade as I go. My rear shocks have 3 adjustments 70/30, 60/40, and 50/50 is how they came. Would one of these do the trick??. Also I will be looking to get separate street tires and slicks once I can afford it. For now I was just looking for a good best of both worlds set up haha. I am not opposed to Hoosiers at all.. I just read they were no good for driving on the street. A lot of the someone spits out the window and you are eating the ditch sort of thing which I know what is the case for both I just was told they were worse than et streets for that and to not put them on the street. But if that's bs I would def look at those instead! Also as for weight what would be some easy options to cut some?? Again thanks a lot guys
 
#5 ·
Each car is different and no one can tell you what shock setting will work. Maybe start with 70/30 and try them all. You will get tired of unhooking the shock to make the adjustment. The DA's and Rancho's use knob type adjustment. I can tune my car soft for the street and hard for the track in about 3.5 seconds. More shock adjustment is definitely better. Just a small adjustment can make a world of difference.

I recommended the QTP's for their straight-line dry road/track performance. They do quite well then under hard acceleration. Any tire without tread will be slippery when the road gets wet. Sometimes it takes lots of self control to get home after a little sprinkle. They also are not good with lots of road course type maneuvers. Best to not put yourself in such circumstances, thus the 2 sets of tires recommendation.

The more you tailor your street car toward the track, the more you take away some of its street capability. Mine does hit the street BUT I learned along time ago to respect its capabilities as it can get wild. Just don't put yourself in a position that pushes the envelope-you'll loose.

Weight loss comes down to what you don't need. Pay particular attention to anything in front of the driver. Use fiberglass and aluminum to replace heavy original stuff. Toss one of the horns. Move the battery to the trunk. Remove the front sway bar. Use light weight aluminum wheels. Remove the heater core. Its just something that you work at. A pound here and there add up.
 
#6 ·
Good job on the fuel cell.

Traction will likely be your biggest challenge, tire pressure makes a huge difference. Keep notes, you may have to go pretty low to get some bite and really low does not feel great while going through the traps.

I'm using DA shocks and love the ability to tweak 8 knobs to go from street to strip.

Have fun
 
#7 ·
Thanks alot guys this has been a HUGE help! and it is really appreciated.

I am glad the QTP's were brought up because I was originally looking at and favoring Hoosier when I first began searching for a sticky street tire. They seemed to have more sizing options and I had heard really good things about hook up ((and to be fair I am a sucker for those white letters hehe)) but then seen "designed and approved for D.O.T. class racing only. They are not approved, nor recommended for any kind of street use" on Summit when pricing so I checked a couple forums and seen the favor of the MT's.

But I was fortunate enough to atleast have experience as a passenger to what these types of tires are like in any kind of wet as my dad had the ET Streets on his Cuda and we got caught in the rain quite a few times lol so I knew it was going to be a little sketchy regardless but I am glad to hear I can open up the Hoosier option again.


That being said I definately had the respect for all cars really but especially the old muscle car and their power just by being around them growing up.. but it was especially drilled into my head when I started looking to buy my own haha. I learned even myself when I first got the car it was running with a mild built 302 and a not so fantastic street tire and I happened to be coming around a corner on the way to a shop that had a wee bit of dust.. I wasn't even trying to act foolishly but when I changed a gear and it gave the tires a chirp that almost put me around in a circle I learned to be more careful REAL fast haha.


As far as street goes right now so long as I can jump in it and drive the few minutes up to work or take a bit of a night cruise and make a bit of noise on pump gas without Johnny Law taking one look at it and saying never wanna see this car again. I am more than happy haha.


I again appreciate the help you have given me lots to look at and a good base to work for to reach my goal. Hopefully I will have some times and pictures of my own to contribute this season!!

LOVE the Mustang btw! That is a beautiful sight!
 
#9 ·
I built a 331 and a C4. I gutted my 91 coupe and I am running 11.13@122. I have a tubular K member that I will be installing after the next race and hope to hit the 10's. It sounds like you will be close. Weight was and is a factor as well. The more you can shed the quicker you can get. One thing I just did that helped was coil overs in the back. I went from best 11.20@120 to 11.13@122. from just coil overs. Good luck and above all, have fun!!
 
#16 ·
I am curious, was this a stock block. I have my rev limiter set at 6500 and I am hitting it before the 1/4 mile. I have been thinking about raising it but just nervous with a stock block.
 
#11 · (Edited)
That is excellent numbers 10.60! if I were ever to hit that or close N/A I wouldn't be able to get out of the car because standing up in public would be an embarrassing event haha. even 11.13 with the 331 is awesome!! that's one fast street car if you are down in the 11s and that would be pretty exciting my first times out if I make it down in those ranges.

thanks on the build comment aswell!! I have just been cruising the forums for a few years trying to narrow it down based on others experiences. I know the itch for more is going to get to ya regardless but I dropped back to the 347 in loo of the dart block 363 i was originally going for just for cost. in the end i kind of wish I had stuck to my guns because the whole point of trying to do a decent build was to try and get more of what Im after the first time around instead of starting small and wanting more a week later haha.. but i figured it would be easier to save for something like that later while I have a motor in the car having fun as i save to get a short block and a few changes down the road then be parked for a season or 2 more lol.

the itch for burnouts got to me haha
 
#14 ·
holy **** running those numbers would be scary in the best kind of way!.

I fear but absolutely know some day if I ever hit my mid-low 10 goal I will be there for a while and go hmmmm I bet 9's would be awesome haha orrrr as stoked as I am if I eventually got there someone I realllly want to beat will kick my ass and that will be all it takes haha.

yeah I just wanted to get a nice base then start having fun learning and tweaking lol
 
#15 ·
Always want more more more. But let me tell you, when you think its all its got, its just not true. Always pay attention to what your car should 60' for the et its running. Then its the engine, timing, lash, stall, weather, jetting, air bleeds, engine temp, launch rpm, shift rpm and so on.... good luck, and have fun with it.
 
#18 ·
Digital 6 plus. It hit the rev limiter at about 100-200 ft. before the stripe. I'll know more after Saturday's race. Usually they have test n' tune between rounds. I plan on bumping it up
 
#21 · (Edited)
Every single person I've known who took their car to the track for the very first time came away excited, but very disappointed in their ET. There will be a steep learning curve when it comes to the driving, and getting use to the strip. You will probably not run that great on your first few passes... but with experience, will get faster as you get more seat time. Plus, there will be tuning issues and adjustments you'll have to make in order to maximize things. So, in other words... don't get disappointed if your car doesn't run as fast as you think it should on your first trip to the track! That's NORMAL! :)

As for the car's potential...

A 1969 Falcon isn't the lightest car out there. It's a LONG way from a gutted out Fox body mustang! A 347 in one of these cars is NOT going to run 10's unless it's a very serious piece in a well sorted out car. I don't know how crazy the engine is, but with a 4k stall converter and 4.11 gear and 28" tire, I'm assuming it's not too crazy.

My prediction is you'll probably run 13's on your first passes, and will probably work your way into the 12's by the end of the night. You will come away wanting more gear, as the car will be nowhere near wound out at the end of the 1/4 mile... and will be launching a bit soft. 4.11 gears and 28" tall tires will have the thing needing to go 140mph in order to be wound out. The 4.11 gear with a 28" tire is geared like a 26" tired with a 3.81 gear. You're going to end up wanting to install 26" slicks or a 4.56 gear. If you go with the bottle, the current gearing will be fine.

Good Luck!
 
#22 ·
thanks for the replies guys!! after some thinking and help I was given in another post about future route as the stock block 347 wasn't my first choice and wasn't overly comfortable with the lack of growth but wanted to get rolling lol. I near the end of my payments so the machining and building will start and have decided with what I have and the pricing difference I am just going to go the 408w route right off the bat and not waste the time doing things 2ce lol. I think overall this will work better for me and what I want to do. work on my combo a bit

I know for sure I am going to need some seat time and will have fun getting better at it! I know my times are probably going to be less than impressive at first haha, but as long as the potential is there is really what I am looking for.

Hopefully if I can shed a bit of weight on it and get things working nicely. hooking up and revving ((again thanks for the gearing and tire advice!! this is something I will def keep in mind)) with a decent 408w I am really going to try and piece around for 550-600fwhp it will move me to atleast to lower 11 in time. I would be pretty happy with that. then keep pushing for that 10 even if its 10.98 haha
 
#25 ·
Now going with the 408w with rpm forged crank internally balanced and H beam rods. The TW 205 11r heads. Custom hydraulic roller cam, and letting pro systems work me out a carb what intake would you suggest. I was going yo go with a ported Vic Jr before. Would something else be more suited for the bigger motor
 
#26 · (Edited)
Are you getting a short block from Probe? I still prefer the Scat stuff as RPM can be hit or miss as they have different levels of quality available. Internal balance is good, but be sure to also use a neutral balancer and flexplate.

Those should be good heads, but you might want to have a shop verify the machine work-the last set of high ports that we bought new had leakage on 3 valves from a flawed valve job-easily corrected before installation. Be sure to install the cam's recommended valve springs on the heads at the proper height. Install at least a 1 3/4" diameter tubed headers or preferably 1 7/8". Connect that to 3" or 3 1/2" exhaust tubing at least up to the mufflers (and preferably afterwards.)

For the strip, you can't beat a super victor on a 408-but you have to have the necessary hood clearance. The next best choice would be the ported Victor Jr. It will work very well in your street/strip ride.
 
#27 ·
Thanks! Yeah I was wondering if going up to the super would be a better move. I'm not toooo worried about hood clearance as I have around a 5in scoop but if it showed problems I would be willing to get another scoop or hood for the better intake option.

As for the block I am getting everything from Fordstrokers.com. heads as well. The rpm internally was 300. The scat which I think was external 500. Would it be worth the extra?
 
#29 · (Edited)
As for the block I am getting everything from Fordstrokers.com. heads as well. The rpm internally was 300. The scat which I think was external 500. Would it be worth the extra?
Woody claims that he gets good handpicked forged RPM cranks and I would suppose that you won't have any issues with it if he does the assembly. He does seem to have good luck with them. If you are using a stock Ford block, it will probably take a little more abuse than the block will. Stock windsor blocks are good, but the 3" mains don't like going over 7K rpm. Can lead to cap walk and cracks that can't be prevented.

I used an internal balanced lightweight Scat crank for mine and it wasn't cheap but would go to 8K if I would build the rest of the motor appropriately. Doubt if I'll have any problems with it no matter what HP level its at in my street/strip car. I tried to build with an eye toward the future with it and the big bore Dart block.
 
#30 ·
X2 on the mains. I used to run a c9 block and 7200 was my limit.
Have you ever thought about the high ports from Trick flow? They definalty have more potential in the long run, and since your starting fresh might be better off. I had a 418 in a c9 block, 245cc high ports from et heads, ported super victor, solid roller, c4, 1000 cfm 4150. My best @ 2900 lbs was 9.40@143, that bitch would 60" a 1.30. This wasnt a high dollar piece. I could drive around town.
 
#31 ·
Gotta love those high ports--great race heads at a fair price.

Unfortunately the raised exhaust ports on the 351w based block can make large tube headers nearly impossible to install if using the factory shock towers. That is what holds me back from doing the swap.
 
#32 ·
Hey guys.

Now that snow is flying here I figured I would hit back with some updates or rather a lack of. Have had my car in for frame connectors, springs moved in and some wheel well work I guess you would call a mini tub lol.. was going to have a cage done but now that I had this started at the end of 2012 and its still not home I have since had that knocked off the list due to him not even being close to getting around to it and miraculously my bill went up! Long frustrating story but needless to say I missed another season so one way or another next season I will update with some N/A times of how my first outing went!

I have tried cutting out weight where I could! going to weigh the car once I have it all together and on the road. Comparing to another VERY! similar car my guess would be its around 3,000 with me in it but I suppose time will tell! see if I can squeeze out some weight when its home.

As for the engine funds ran low so I just went with the 347 for the time being. When the time comes I figure I can sell off the block and other things I plan to swap out maybe intake and carb for a dart block set up.

Which during my boredom I have a few questions but first I will refresh memories on my combo

347 Stroker
Scat 9000 cast crank
Scat 4340 forged I beam rods
Wiseco flat top forged pistons
Custom grind Hyd roller cam. (gross lift I: .584, E: .579 duration @.006 tappet lift I: 285 E:296 lobe sep. 108.0)
TEA Twisted Wedge 205 11R 56cc (10.6 comp)
Comp Cam Ultra Gold 1.6 rockers
Victor Jr. Intake ported
Prosystems 780

I wanted to eventually after getting comfortable with the N/A set up, run a small shot of nitrous.. (100-150 is the most I care to run on this) What I was wondering given my set up would it be possible to run a 100 shot on 93 octane. I did some research but only really turned up way more radical things like guys asking if they can run 250 shots on 12;1 on 91 and stuff.. what I did see is the whole 2 degrees for every 50hp and watch your plugs. But I figured I would see what some of the guys with spray experience here say.

also I have been trying to do some reading up on it and wondering if anyone here can point me to some good articles giving a good run down on nitrous do's and don't's

Thanks a lot!!
 
#33 ·
hopefully some of our more experienced folks will chime in but I would guess a lot of the answer will depend on things like:
What year block?
50oz, 28oz, or neutral balanced?
Expected rpm for peak power and shift?
Expected n/a power?

Should be awesome runner even without nitrous with those heads!
 
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