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Discussion Starter #21
I have the IRS from the Lincoln MkVIII. It's way too wide for what I want. I like the dish look of the wheels in there now and don't want to run a late model offset. Plus, the hub and rotor setup on it would have to be swapped for the 5x4.5 pattern which nulls all the cost of the 4 link and tunnel mods. I'm using the IRS in the Galaxie project later on.

When I built my last car, I started with a blower, ran it and then had to swap engines because it was too much for the stock block with my growth. I went Sportsman block, T70 turbo and sold the kit before even starting it. I got a YSI trim Vortech and never ran that. I started the engine and broke the car in without the blower with only around 50 miles or so of driving. I ended up building a T6 BWS480 setup for it and it was down again. All in all, I had the car from 97 to 2010 and put a total of 8000 miles on it. That's not happening again. I'll get it running, then think of what I want to do next, Galaxie, F100, turbo this, whatever. If you haven't noticed, I change my mind like the wind. That's why I like the flexibility in my rides to do what I want when I get an urge....like this turbo idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Looks like I'd need to run a 3" wide intercooler at max. I found one at 31x12x3 with both enter and exit on the same side that would work with just a slight trimming on the front inside of the valance. I'd surely have to modify the coolant and oil filter passages to be able to get the drivers side exhaust over to the turbo. I'd have to find some way to mount the MAF in the piping in a nice looking way and then still determine an air filter setup. The rest is not hard. The oil and coolant passage thing would surely cause me a headache and I'd have to build the headers from scratch as I planned anyways but it's all doable now or down the line with little body modification so I'll start gathering parts after the car is on the suspension. Then tuning and injectors will need to be addressed. I'll get the right fuel pump for the job right off the bat.
I'd like to do twins but the intercoolers are all 3.5" thick and that would make trimming the fromt end turn tuner style and I'm not wanting that. If I could get a 3" thick one at 31x14" total dimensions, I'd consider twin T3/T4's and that would be more ideal for me with internal gates and less hot side piping.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I've been on the turbo forums for many years now. That's where I got much of my info for my T6 347 build on my mustang. Already searching now. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I think I made a mistake in borrowing the turbo and setting it in the bay. It's a 67mm P trim so 350-400hp is super easy to achieve with the right fuel and injector setup.


Here's what it'd look like in the bay with the engine in there. Just need to determine routing of hot and cold sides and then find the right position for it. Plenty of room to grow it looks like too.





I think I might have found a new goal here. Looks like the air ride setup is going to have to wait.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well, I'm trying to sand blast the rear end so I can prep it for paint and bracket welding. In between waiting for my crappy compressor to catch up and cool off, I decided to grab a piece of steel and cut the fender out to fit the turbo in the bay. I guess you could say, I'm committed now. The turbo needed to be clocked in a way so I could get the 3" down pipe around where the old shock tower was and still clear the engine. I also had to make sure I could get a filter or an elbow with a filter on it connected and routed in the fender. I needed just about 1" down and 1" back into the fender so I cut the curve out and made it straight. The turbo fits in there nicely. Too bad I ran out of wire for the welder. Once I get it taken care of, I'll weld this all in and look at starting my exhaust building. I have to get the intercooler too because I need to get exacts on where the in and outlets pipes are going to mount. I'm going to have the in and out on the same side in a cooler that supports 600-700 hp if I ever decide to step it up. You can see where the cold side will return above the turbo in the slotted radiator support.






I have a few questions though, My last turbo setup was run by a Big Stuff 3 with a single O2 sensor. I'm planning to use the factory EEC with 42# injectors and a lightning blow through MAF. How should I look at placing the O2 sensors in this car? In the down pipe seems a bit far from the cylinders but in the manifolds are under pressure. Does that matter?

Is there a boost referencing FRP that mounts on the factory rails? I'm not going to do aftermarket rails and such because I know the stockers will handle what I'm planning.....for now.

Will the factory vac IMRC's have an issue operating since mine are not electronic operated? I guess they work off Vac but how will they open if I'm putting boost to it?

Thanks for any help guys.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Just ordered my triangulated 4 link setup, the extra short axle for the 8.8 and a new fuse and wiring harness for the whole car. Time to get busy!!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I find myself in a bind. I was going at all this install without two key parts I eventually plan to reintroduce to the car. I'm going to be putting an AC setup on the car again eventually and possibly power steering if it's not easy to turn as is for the wife. After mounting these pumps back on the engine I see, I have some obstacles to overcome with the exhaust and the intercooler. Pardon the messy pics below but the wiring is all loose still, I loosely mounted the pumps in and just placed the reservoirs in. The passenger side can be overcome I think but the drivers side is going to be tough. This is unless I do like I've seen some cars do recently by running the exhaust back and under the engine and up over to the turbo. I saw a Crown Vic with it done that way. Not what I was wanting but I have to make sure those can be mounted if I need or want both. Getting older and those warm trips to Denver or out of state to visit family will surely suck with no AC. I think we'll do ok with the big factory steering wheel and the steering ratio but the AC is almost a need now. I know I could just say, forget both of them and drive myself all the time but this is about getting the most out of the car. So, with the pics below, do any of you have experience with the piping setup I mentioned or know someone who does? I'm thinking a 2.5" crossover and both merge into a 3" and then forward to the turbo with a 3" down pipe and exhaust if possible. I might even consider ovaling the tubes in spots. Would this hurt anything? What do you guys think?? Then I need to see what I will do about the AC condenser/evaporator positioning. With a 3" intercooler up front, I have zero room to play with.
I'd like to keep everything and still have the turbo if possible. That's the plan until I find the end. Then I'll determine what is most important. The wife may disagree but, getting somewhere faster is more important.......




Glad the wife mentioned AC or I would have forgot!
 

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You might get past the p/s problem by going to electric assist. Theres a couple of threads in the forum about it..Looks interesting...and from what I'v read, a pretty easy conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I read about that too. If the steering is too tough for the wife, I can still go power steering and not be in too much trouble. I went out and decided I'll have to run the pipes like most modular guys do in their tight bays. I'll run the drivers manifold through a 2.5" pipe under the bell housing and over to the passenger side to merge and go to the turbo from there. I have room for a 3" after the merge to go forward and then a 3" down pipe. The problems I'm finding while looking through Vintage Air's site is that the condenser is .83" thick. I will have to do some modification to the front end to keep the outside looking factory while fitting that between the intercooler and the radiator. Plus the hot side pipe going to the turbo will run right in front of the compressor for the AC so I'll have to modify the lines for it. More parts to buy but I "think" I can get it all to work if the factory 94 compressor will work with their systems.

Thanks for the tip though.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I think I have it all figured out for fitment. I need to do some metal work on the hood latch support bat but not an issue. I have a few lines in the water for intercoolers but no bites yet. I just need to know if this compressor will work with the vintage air systems. I think I just need to work the lines for it but it should keep the pressure up. They have only compressors for added brackets and such and I don't see any brackets to mount theirs in the factory Mark location.

I did get this in the mail today. 31 spline 27" for the shortened 8.8.



The 4 link should be here any day now.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The 4 link came in today.







Now I just have to wait for some decent weather. It's been below 0* for the past few days now and too cold to get out in the garage. I really can't wait till I have my heated shop next winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I got the wiring harness in today. It was in the 30's but still too cold and my back is not up to the task of laying under the dash today. My garage time is coming soon!!!!




I also pressed the studs into the new axle.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #34
After a hour of searching, I realized, I'm missing the pinion yoke. WTF???? Seems it was put in the bed of the 57 F100 I just sold a few days ago when we had it in the back and it was never removed. I don't have the guy's number. Guess I'll be looking for another one. You can see it missing in the pic below. I was still able to verify pinion angle because I verified the face of the housing was level with the flange before I took it all a part. So, I got the pinion in as much as I could, put the diff together with the axles in place and the discs on for proper final spacing and after 2 hours of going from side to side verifying angles, level and straightness, I got the rear in place and ready for bracket fitment.





So, tomorrow, I'll tack the brackets to the axle and the frame and then work on the upper. I have about 1.5" or clearance for the driveshaft to the tunnel. I'm goig to go ahead and give it another inch or so from raising the hump. Setting the rear ride height at 7 and 3/4" and the front at 6 and 1/2" I'll get the ride height I want and a little more clearance for the driveshaft. The clearancing is mainly for the future bags. What you see will be the final rear ride height.

I wish I got over to the welding shop to get some steel for the subs. I have to wait for the week now. It's slowly coming along. My back and feet are yelling at me but I got something done!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #35
While setting the 4 link in place and trying to get the geometry right, I find myself in a spot I'm unsure of. I have the lower bar at 1* down to the axle and it'll almost ride level once on the ground at the raked ride height. The problem I have is the upper bar. I am sure the angle is not an issue from the frame inwards. I'd love to go more but have a cast iron center section and the angle inward in the pics below is right at the frame to the inner most part of the axle I can go to. The one concern I have is the upper angle from the top of the axle mount down to the frame where it's such a drop. Is there anyone out there with suspension geometry knowledge that can tell me if this will wreak havoc on my pinion angle or bind heavily? I will be lowering the car as far as the suspension will allow before it hits something. THat's with a bag setup.

What do you guys think about these angles in the pics below???






Desperately waiting to finish this up but want to do it right.

Thanks guys.

Dave
 

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There are some pretty sharp suspension guys over at Pro-touring.com
Maybe join over there and do some reading and ask for some help.
They have a suspension section.

What are your plans for mounting of the brackets to the body?

Your 4 link kit looks like a Ride Tech universal kit. If it is, I'm sure they could help you out.

Jet
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks. I found a few threads of theirs in searching. I'm still looking around but might migrate over and search their list.

It's a knockoff of Ride Tech's kit. Half the price and the same size material.

I have to build the frame rails out a bit to meet the brackets since the Fairlane frame rails back thee are angled. Not a problem. I want to put fresh metal over the old stuff there for support and reinforcement. Then I'll tie it all into the sub frames when I get them.

Thanks for the info.

Dave
 

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I don't see anything wrong with the side to side angle on the top bars. Thats creating a triangulated 4 link and can negate the need for a panhard bar. It will probably create a giant headache when you try to run your exaust tho.

I'v never tried ot build a 4 link that was meant to turn a corner, but on a drag car that extreme downward angle is gonna make the rear want to squat on accelleration and it prob wouldn't hook worth poo. Hacking into the floors and losing rearseat room so the top bar has a reasonable angle is one of the limitations to a street 4 link.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I searched all over and found on Protouring as suggested. The setup with the upper axle mounts on the front of the axle is good to help against squatting and also brings the bars to just off of level. It seems I lucked out with the design and layout on this setup. I'll go ahead and put the uppers like that and see how it does.

The triangulated 4 link works great in a street car. I've had a few Fox mustangs setup for autocross and they were excellent with the tubular setup triangulated. As for the exhaust, I'll be running a single 3" which might prove a problem. I'll tackle that issue when I get to it. It'll be tough to get it tight when I want to drop the car on the bags.

Thanks!

Dave
 
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