Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

41 - 60 of 175 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
A few guys are going under the axle with the exhaust when running that setup.
I snaked mine through above with 2.5". It still needs some tweeking when I get it back out this spring.
Worse case I will get some V band clamps and go under the axle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
Dave,

You may be able to build or buy the cradle from TCI from their Triangulated kit for the Falcon. I know it wont be the right size for your car. But, give some you direction.
It has provisions for the upper control arms and for the Coil over upper attach points.

I can email you some pictures of it, if your interested.

Jet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Jet,
Not sure I am aware of the one you mentioned. If you don't mind pics, I'd love to see more ideas. I looked at a few from Mustang rear kits. They have the front cross bar with incorporated shaft loop. Though it's a nice design and would surely make things easier, I'd have to dig into the back seat for it because the loop would be all in the seat cushion because the shaft is already too tight up in there. The fab savings would be negated by tearing the floor all out and incorporating that bar. I have to clearance an inch of the shaft spacing at least anyways. I don't want to go any higher or the interior starts to suffer.

I played with the bars some and I agree that I will just put the upper mounts on the axle at the front of the tubes. That will give me just about 1.5-2"" of down slope on the bar and that's supposedly a good compromise for squat/traction on a street car from what I'm reading. That will also ensure I have more room for the exhaust to go over the axle too if I split it to two 2.5" pipes or oval a single 3" one. I can do that and drop it on air bags and still have it tight up between the frame rails. I just have to be sure the shock bar is not in the way now. I'll get back to it this coming weekend. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
On another note, I have to rant. I looked at the Street Rodder mag with a 64 Fairlane that has a KR500 5.4 in it. I liked the car until I read the article and found that each aspect of the car was done at some different shop. It doesn't say the owner did anything to the car except paid the bills. How is there pride in that? I'll have a friend paint mine but I'm paying by doing engine and suspension work for him. I feel bad enough just having him do that for me.

Not a fan of that type of build. I like seeing all of you guys do your work and enjoy doing it myself.

Rant over.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
TCI Engineering ~ 1-800-984-6259 ~ American Made Street Rods, Hot Rods, Classic Trucks, Ford & Chevy Muscle Cars Suspension and Chassis Parts. 1” upper & lower 4 link bars with stainless adjusters Greasable urethane bushings Triangulated bolt-in cr

It's not a great picture on their website. I have better pics at home.

But the upper cradle doesn't affect the floor or rear seat area other then drilling some holes and adding a doubler to the inside under the seat. It also bolts through the frame rails and to the factory shock holes.

You can also download the install instructions on their website. It has some pictures in it.

Will see what pics I have.

Jet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
I checked the install manual for it. They have some good installed pics of the cradle. Very bulky and I like how they supported everything with bracing inside the car. If the cost were low enough to consider, I'd still have the issue of cutting the bars. They have the bars at 20 and 13 inches where as I'm at 29 and 20. I don't have a wide enough axle to get it in and have mine not go into the back of the wheel. It seems like there's a lot of room under there until I get the axle in place and then all the real estate is gone. Though I like the idea, I think I'm going to stick with my plan. Then I can surely say it's mine and take the blame if it fails. Thanks though.

Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
No problem.

The upper cradle bar is 1.5" tubing. Not sure of the wall thickness though.

Great build and can't wait to see more.

Jet
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,059 Posts
What brand of harness did you go with. Look forward to hearing how it goes for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
The wiring harness is from ezwiring.com. I've installed their kits in 3 different vehicles now and will stick with them. Painless is stupid priced compared. They may have little extra features but these do just fine and are complete for half price. Their gauges acutally are pretty accurate for very good pricing too and I like the era type look on them too.

I've had to lay off the project a bit due to medical and my school is taking time. Plus the kid's sports and hobbies are time eaters. No wonder I see the older guys building their cars. Kids are gone. I hope to get back to it in the next 2 weeks.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
I came home early and had a little time to get a little done. I didn't like climbing under the car so often to measure and see where it was all going to line up and I realized I wasn't going to get the welder up to the top of the spacers I need to make so here is what I did..........







The spacer blocks will be 1/8th plate that is 4" tall and I'll build the boxes out 1/2" and just shave the brackets as needed and weld them to the boxes. I'm really glad I did this because I found how thin the material was on the frame rails and I'm shocked. I'm going to do some support work and I'm also going to tie these into the subs by a plate when I get them and install them. Just tacking the brackets to the existing material would never of handled the HP of the turbo let alone the engine itself. More work but it's for the better for the car. Now I can reinforce and weld from all the angles needed.


Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
I also have found that putting my upper axle mounts just up a bit more would put my roll center right at the CG of the car so I'm actually not far off. I know it's not a racecar but I don't want the rear lifting or squatting excessively. I should have a good balance and if I start to break the wheels loose, I'll just have to adjust the uppers on the axle. Not a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
I got both frame brackets built, tacked in and also have the lowers tacked in place and level with each other. I ran out of gas in the welding bottle so I'll have to hit the uppers tomorrow if I can get it filled. Then it looks as though I'll have to raise the floor of the trunk right behind the back seat to fit the shock bar and have room for the exhaust to go over the axle. It's coming along slowly but surely. Dark pic but you can get the idea. I can't wait to have this thing on the ground and on all 4's!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
I got the rear 4 link finished up but I'm not as sure of it as I was when planning it. I haven't had it bolted up tight since final welding yet but I wonder if there is enough angle on my uppers to keep the housing centered and avert the need of a Pan-hard bar. What do you guys think? I got a good angle of the bars to the axle as far as getting them close to parallel. They intersect around a foot and a half forward of the center of the car. I hope that'll do but I won't know till I get it on the ground and running.








I have the rear articulated all the way up in this pic and the driveshaft hits as well as the ABS sensor guards on the axle. Just some trimming and raisding of the shaft tunnel and it'll be able to sit lower when the bags are on the car. This is at 5.25" ground clearance in the rear where as normal ride height is just around 8"



What do you guys think??

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
OK, I got the rear end primed, painted and fully installed. I check it through the full range of motion and it works great. I have decided I'm going ahead with the air ride setup and am going to use the 7000 series shockwaves from Air Ride Technologies in the back. I'll go with the ones that have the 6.9" stroke so I can get the car as low as in these pics but ride at the height I want it to. I took some measurements and here is what I came up with. See if I'm on the right track.

In these pics, the rear is tucked as high as I can go with 1" bump stops going back into the factory rail stops. This puts the rear pinchweld at 3.5" off the ground and the front lower 4 link bracket at 1.75" off the ground. I'm wanting 7.5" of normal ride height.

Using the 7000 series with a 6.9" stroke, that would give me 3.75" of compression right? I'm short 1/4" since they say the compressed height is 13.75". Does it work that way or can I run the air as needed to get the height up to the 7.5" ride height and just make sure the mounts are at just over the 13" compressed height to save the shocks from bottoming?

My intention is to have the 7.5" height and get it down to the 3.5" parked height. If I were to play with the air for the height adjustment and get up the extra 1/4-1/2" of height, that would give me just around 2" of extension on the shocks. Is that enough or will I end up breaking something? These are the largest shockwave bags they have and I don't want them up into the trunk too badly just to sit on the ground.







What do you guys think??

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
I think I have it figured out. I wasn't taking into account the added 1/2" of tire I was going to gain in the front by running a 50 series versus a 45 series tire up front. That will put the front at just around 4" of clearance after deflated. So, I could actually use the longer stroke rear setup and still have cushion room for safety. Going to a final drop clearance of 4 inches for the pinchweld to be off the ground is not bad at all after researching and seeing a few pics. I'll need to get the trunk floor cut out and the cross bar placed.

I picked up some 1 x 3 x 1/8" tubing. 20 feet for the subs, trans cross member and the rear shock tower and frame brace. I can't wait to start on all that.

I also got my pinion flange in so now it's complete. I need to verify it fits with my driveshaft still though. Otherwise I'll be on the hunt for another pinion yoke or a driveshaft yoke to the pinion.

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
While sitting here searching the internet because I can't work on the car, I took interest to your idea Roger, and started researching the idea of the A6 2.7 setup in a Fairlane. There is a 2 door 64 for sale locally and I'm finding lots of wrecked A6's around. I think I found the snag though. The Fairlane has a wheelbase of 115.5 and track width of 57 front and 56 rear. The A6 has a 108.7 base with a track of 60.5 front and 61.8 rear.

The wheel base of the Audi fits the wheel base of a falcon but the width of a Galaxie best. Have you guys done anything towards this project idea? I'm interested. I'm picking up an All Road soon enough for my DD and wouldn't mind grabbing an A6 for parts too. Think about it, 64 Fairlane AWD with twin turbo, heated front and rear leather seats, paddle shift on the wheel. It got me thinking. There's a 62 Falcon 4 door not too far from me that needs help. I would go that route first to save the 64 for the diehard enthusiasts and keep to my 4 door style going. I just need to get past the track width issue. I'm not interested in the SCCA fat fender idea. Any word?

Well, back on the Fairlane project. I talked with a guy from Ride Tech. I have the bag idea laid out. I plated/reinforced the rear frame rails and put a 1.5x3" bar across from them too for shock mounts and frame support. I hope to get it on the wheels soon so I can put in the subframe connectors and get the trans cross member done soon. We're moving this summer and it needs to be able to roll on the trailer. I can't do squat now because I just had foot surgery and can't stand or walk on it for 2 weeks minimum. Being an internet hero is killing me when the car is out there screaming fro attention and we have good weather.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #58
Well, a lot has happened lately. I have decided to scratch the turbo idea and run it N/A for sure. Later on I'll get a 96-98 Cobra Kenne Bell 2.1 kit for it so now I can work on getting the exhaust how I want it as well as the suspension and get it running nicely.

The Falcon idea is out the window as well.

Here's why.......

I just picked this beauty up today. Got it loaded with crutches and all but I got it home. It's a 1952 Mainline with the 239 Flathead V8 in it and 3 on the tree. It's only issues are the floor pans need replaced which I have a source for, the interior is all out and I'm searching for the factory stuff. If not, I'll go all custom with it. The only other issue it has is the steering box is locked up because it needs rebuilt. I have a line on Rock Auto doing the rebuild for $220. Once we close on the house and get everything over to it, I'll get started on this. I need to finish the rear end of the Fairlane and put the pieces on the drivers front to make it mobile. I'll have to strap up the tranny again but it'll be movable.

Here she is...








Now, why don't we have a forum for them here? I checked the street rod forum but not much there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,867 Posts
Cool old ride you found. There were a lot of old rust free rides out there when I was going to Cheyenne Aero Tech.

1st Gen Broncos, And a shelby mustang lurking by a garage near the airport. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
There is a yard owned by an old merchant marine that is full of cars and trucks. Everything from the 20's to the 70's and he's not letting anything go because he's been having things stolen. I love to sit and listen to his stories. Just wish he'd come off some of the cars.

I got some work done on the Fairlane despite my Dr's orders to stay off the foot. I have to get it on its wheels though because we just bought our new home and I have to get this on the trailer to get it over there.

This is really my first day back in the garage since surgery. Stitches are out and I'm semi walking in the boot. Not supposed to be as much as I am but I'm stubborn.

I got the cross brace done that will brace the frame and act as the shock mount. I welded in some tubing sleeves and they were perfect fit for these bolts.




Here you can see the brace in the trunk but I can't weld it in yet. I cant get in there with this boot or even get into the angles needed to weld it in. Soon enough though.





As soon as I get that bar welded in, I have my steel stock fake shocks built and ready to install for transport. Just need to put the front end suspension back on and it'll be on the ground. I'll tie the tranny up with a strap for now until I can make the subs and cross member.

Can't wait to be in the new house!

Dave
 
41 - 60 of 175 Posts
Top