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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Started digging out the trunk pan seams on my donor car and on the Xl only to realize they are two different designs. But oh well, I have had input from multiple people that own '67's and it appears that both were used.

Anyway, here are some starter picks.







Those are from the donor car.

Here's from the XLL


Everything you'll see that isn't rust colored is fiberglass...Not much metal under at the edges...




Here is an actual pic of my car when I bought it 13 years ago. Before I realized the vinyl top had been rusting the roof out.



One day, after stroking the engine and giving the whole car plenty of TLC, The Beast will be on the road again in usual sleeper fashionl light to light and cruisin' with the A/C on LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice ride. Are you really a Sifu?
Yes, I am really a Sifu. Actually, I am really a Sitaigung. Sifu is generic for "Teacher" but Sitaigung is my rank so I go by Sifu because it is a more humble title. Sitaigung = Grandmaster; I am a 10th Dan, Founder of a system.

I used both in conjunction for my screen name because I needed more letters. I usually just use Sifu..

Tommy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have started to take the front end off. I actually think that I will end up pulling the body up and wire wheel the frame then prime and paint it.

I haven't gotten that far as you can see but I do believe that since I will have it that close, I may as well go ahead and do it. There is no way to know when I will feel like doing this all over again, hehehehe.

I have been taking a wire wheel on a pneumatic grinder to all the pieces, one by one, as I take them off and taking them to bare metal then prime and paint. Tedious, yes, but I want to put it together one time and be done with it. I will be getting the addco sway bar for the front and putting a one inch sway on the rear. The engine is getting a 445 stroker kit and I already have the edelbrock aluminum performer heads. Harland sharpe roller rockers and a nice cam - to be determined. 3.83 gears or better in the rear; maybe even a gear vendor if I feel like it. I have to really save for that one though. Anyway, here are some pics as it comes apart.

By the way, I am cutting out an entire floor pan set from firewall to trunk from my parts car and it's going in the XL. Also, the roof skin from the parts car will be transplanted. I am doing all the cutting and the welding. All the engine work- minus the machine shop duties. All the dis-assembly and reassembly, he$$, I will probably do all the associated body work and paint too.

The front end will get new springs and all new steering/suspension parts. ( on order for over $600 - yay......right) but it will drive great when it's done.

[URL=http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/WTR77/media/DSC06918_zpsdd2af292.jpg.html][/URL]

For the troublesome heater core, yay!!!!!

[URL=http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/WTR77/media/DSC06917_zps0f566511.jpg.html][/URL]

See where it rusted out?

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Better pic of the rust.
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That hole wasn't supposed to be THAT big for draining the cowl (see the bottom?)
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I am glad I have a parts car. That inside lower hinge support bracket is gone half way down! So is the inside panel. All will be supplied from the parts car. I have already started cutting it all out.

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This is what a REALLY bad heater core does over the years.
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This what happens when someone doesn't have enough common sense to realize what to take apart to get something out without breaking it. No I did not do this. I promise you.
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I will have to do some glass work. I am glad I got a gallon of Duraglass.
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This is how I know the lower hinge support is bad. I cut it open to look. i am glad I did.
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This comes from having leaves and pine needles clog up your drain holes in the lower cowl area.


[URL="[URL=http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/WTR77/media/DSC06931_zpsa4118a65.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1279.photobucket.com/albums/y538/WTR77/DSC06931_zpsa4118a65.jpg[/IMG][/URL]"][URL=http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/WTR77/media/DSC06931_zpsa4118a65.jpg.html]
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The culprit!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
hehe, If I did not have a parts car I would be SOL.

So I finally got my front clip off today.

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This will get replaced with a 1 1/8"addco
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I will be taking body off frame.
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At the core support
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looks like she's lost a few pounds :) one of the hardest parts with stripping a old car is the mountain of parts that comes off/out of it...

you mentioned duraglassing- figured you heard of it but just wanted to be sure- make sure you ospho/metalprep or whatever brand acid etch your local paint supplier carries over any surface rust before coating with anything else, it stops rust dead in its tracks, and makes a perfect surface for 'bite' of whatever you put over it... I had a couple thin spots under the rear seat of our 65, were in what woulda been a very major job due to bracing- i etched, then brushed on a coat of POR15, while still wet, laid thin fiberglass chop cloth saturated in POR15 over it, brushed out all the airbubbles and that stuff set up rock hard, not too worried about it ever lifting :) used the same approach on my sons Mark, as it had some rust in fenderwell, used a heavier mat and did both sides...should stop the rust/add some stiffness to the area, and pulling the engine to get a welder in wasnt required...not saying POR15/glass was a good idea, but an idea no less :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I haven't gotten to a point yo use it yet. I am still cutting out the floorpans - firewall to trunk. The roof skin is next. As you can see in the pics, I will be opening up the lower front door jam/hinge area to fix the lower half of the door hinge inner brace. As long as I am doing this, the plan is to dig in and do it ONE time and since it's lasted almost 50 years, it should last the rest of my life and then some once I am finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, finally I have made some big steps in the right direction.

Update:

The original 390 block is already .030" over and at the machine shop to see if I can maintain that or have to go .040" over. If I stay at .030 it will be a 445 cid stroker, if i have to go .040 it will be a 447 cid.

The heads (EDELS) have new 1.66/2.02 stainless valves with a 3 angle job and new dual springs with dampeners, new spring seats, new seals. They had to be shaved .004" to true up on one so we matched them. They have been cc'd and are now 73 cc heads..Heads are ready to go.

The F427 intake is also there and being given the royal treatment. I believe I may just have all holes coiled to be safe.

I have the cam - $700 for lifters and cam - (hyd roller) picked out (right at .600 lift at the valve with a .238/.248 [email protected] 50) and have a deal on Harland Sharpe Roller valve train with new stands and end caps for $750.

The spindles are completely rebuilt; new brake hoses,new crossover hard-lines, new inlet hard lines, new inner/outer bearings, new studs, reman Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers safety wired on the spindles, new cross-drilled/slotted rotors and new pads. They have been wire-wheeled to bare metal, 3 coats of primer and 4 coats of automotive rattle can semi-gloss black. They are drop on ready to go.

In addition, the upper control arm have also been bare-metal cleaned, primed, painted, and new bushings installed as well as new upper ball joints with angled zirk fittings. They are ready to re-install on the frame when it's ready.

The rear end housing is in my dining room floor (under construction - still) and has also been cleaned/primed/painted but I may send to powder coat... I haven't made up my mind yet.

Now here comes the awesome part:

5 hours spent - Now the frame is completely out from under the car. I have a company locally that will pick it up, take it to their facility, blast it, clean/prep it, powder coat it, and drop it back off to me for....<drum roll...........> $1050 out the door....DONE.

See the pics below. I will post others, as soon as I can, of all the other parts that are done and ready to go.



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"]http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/WTR77/media/IMG_20140720_182653_zpsae7c7f11.jpg.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, so I haven't really made much progress in the last few months between finishing my AA degree and continuing to work on my BA in Bus. Admin.... BUT!!

I did finally get hold of Barry R. at Survival Motorsports and here is the cam card info for my .040" over 390 cid that is getting the 447 cid stroker kit from Barry at Survival Motorsports.... My C-6 is the original one and has been rebuilt with Borg-Warner plates and discs in 1st and 2nd, and Red-Line plates and discs in 3rd. It has had a few valve body adjustments made by the guy that re-built it,( who builds racing tranny's for Langley speedway guys - in addition to the B&M shift kit that he installed. He said it is built to handle up to 750hp (ish or more - said he wouldn't push it passed 800 hp - but up to that I would be fine). and with this built, I will be well under that. I have refilled my argon and got some 1/16" tungsten and gas screens and collets, so now I can do some thin stuff :).

The cam is $336 by itself, but here are the specs for ya!!!


SERIAL # H 8985-15 SPEC CARD # 27937315 SPEC CARD INQUIRY BY SERIAL #
PART # 33-000-9 CAMSHAFT, FB FORD FE 352-428 ROLLER
CORE C33-9CE CAMSHAFT BLANK, FB FORD 390-428 Special Grind
GRIND # FB 3706R/ 3398R HR112
DURATION @ .050 INTAKE 234 ROCKER ARM RATIO
VALVE ADJ INTAKE .000 DURATION @ .050 EXHAUST 240 INTAKE 1.76
VALVE ADJ EXHAUST .000 LOBE LIFT INTAKE .3380 EXHAUST 1.76
VALVE LIFT INTAKE .594 LOBE LIFT EXHAUST .3400
VALVE LIFT EXHAUST .598 LOBE SEPARATION 112.0
DURATION .006 INTAKE C/L 110.0
TAPPET LIFT INTAKE 287 CAM ADVANCE 0
TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST 294 HYDRAULIC Y
VALVE TIMING .050 OVERHEAD CAM N
VALVE OPEN INTAKE 7 JOURNAL DIAMETER STD 2.124
VALVE OPEN EXHAUST 54 RECOMMEND VALVE SPRINGS
VALVE CLOSED INTAKE 47 DEPARTMENT R
VALVE CLOSED EXHAUST 6 SPC INSTR FOR CUSTOMER
SURVIVAL MOTORSPORTS


Also, I have given the card to the machine shop so they can finish up the head set-up. The heads are Edel performer RPM heads, with new SS 2.02/1.66 valves ( they are used in great shape, aside from a couple bent valve stems, thus the new set...) with a triple angle job on them. New seats and seals, they are now ordering the necessary springs to set them up. Going hydraulic roller. The Harland Sharps are next!!! With new end stands and supports, all for only $750..... awesome :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright, where to begin... I have not posted in a VERY long time. Work, home, LIFE has gotten the better of me over the last few years. Busy, busy, busy... BUT! I have made what I consider to be a fair amount of progress on my '67 XL. I have had the frame powder coated a semi-gloss black. The pictures will speak for themselves but here is the rundown:

Front suspension completely installed minus the washers and cotter pins on the struts in the front of the crossmember.

Steering completely reinstalled; original gearbox cleaned and soaked in fluid film to prevent rusting. Used the original pitman arm (which I will change out prior to going on the road - I want a grease-able one and the original is hot anyway) Re-used the original center link as it was great after time bonding with the wire-wheel :) EVERYTHING else is new MOOG parts - inner/outer tie-rods, upper lower ball joints, upper/ lower control arm bushings - and EVERYTHING is grease-able.

ALMOST all of the brand new stainless brake lines are installed - still have to put the coil pieces in to the MC and the run on the rear axle housing to the hose block/wheel cylinders (once installed)

Rear end housing is installed - new progressive rate springs, new insulators top and bottom.

New adjustable trailing arms, new adjustable upper control arm, new adjustable pan hard bar - all with grease fittings (zerks) and all have urethane bushings. all contact points have either a moly-cote (expensive antisieze ~$50 a can...) or a fluid film coating. I will not have squeaking on my "new" car lol :p I put new grade 8 fasteners in the rear suspension and reused some fasteners that I cleaned and fluid filmed up front. (brake line clips and such)

Everything is either new or freshly ( lol couple years ago) taken to bare metal, primed/painted. or powder coated.

New cross drilled / slotted rotors on factory re-man Kelsey Hayes calipers. New brake hoses front and rear, new crossover lines too (SS). New inner and outer timken wheel bearings/seals and races up front, same going in the rear soon. Factory distribution block and proportioning valves cleaned up and reinstalled. New brake booster and attached MC are still sitiing to be installed once body is on and ready. New wheel studas are installed all the way around.

I have 4 factory 67 KH steel wheels for a disc brake car currently on the way form Montana, for a good deal. Will have to blast and coat them but they are not all pitted up and in pretty good condition.

Shocks are new, front and rear coils are new. ( i know the pics don't show the rear coils in yet - I haven't uploaded those yet. SOOO many pics)

WHEW! Typing all of that actually makes me feel better lol!!!

I look at her and realize how much MORE I still have yet to do and then read this and I think to myself "DAMN! youve done a lot already!'.

We all know though; it never ends. I hope you enjoy the update and the pics.

The body? Well, that is a whole other story all together.

SHE WILL BE A ROLLER AGAIN SOON!

Thanks to all of those that have helped by sharing their knowledge with me so many years ago, and to those that continue to do so.

Tommy

P.S.

I included some in process pics, just because I KNOW we ALL love pics :p Hope you enjoy!


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