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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys :)

This is my first oil change. I have a 1966 Ford Mustang Convert.
I had the engine 289 rebuilt & bored-out 30 thousanths. Cars got 5,000 on if so far.

I don't I should any SYNTHETICS YET.
You guys tell me if I should and why.

What the best grade oil I can use. I live in the Las Vegas area,if that helps.

I believe ANSOIL is one of the great oils out there. However I think they only
make SYNTHETICS YES/NO ?

O.K. guys I'm in your hands.
I wait for you relies. ;)
 

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Unless you have a roller cam do not use just any synthetic oil. You need a oil with enough zinc in it to keep the cam wear points in good condition. Amsoil makes a synthetic oil with zinc that is made for classic car engines. You can also use a zinc additive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So What You're Saying I Can Use A Synthetic

Hey Arnoldtx :)

Do you know if I can buy this at: Pepboys or Autozone :confused:

Would you happen to know the name of that Amsoil :confused:

Some fact about my '66 that might help - U - 2 - help me.
Its got a 5 speed manual tranny.
Fuel Injections.

Thank guy ;)

Unless you have a roller cam do not use just any synthetic oil. You need a oil with enough zinc in it to keep the cam wear points in good condition. Amsoil makes a synthetic oil with zinc that is made for classic car engines. You can also use a zinc additive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fill The Oil Filter Half-Way ~ WHY

Hey Guys :)

Not being a car guy as you very well know ~ but I'm learning all the time.

I went to AutoZone and pick-up my 20w-50 oil.
The gal behind the counter toll me when I install the oil filter FILL IT UP HALF WAY and then install it.

She told me why but being an ol' fart I just didn't get it.

Can you guys explain to me WHY I should do that :confused:
 

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it takes about a half quart or more to fill oil filter depending on size of filter..
if you dont prefill filter prior to initial start up ,the oil pump has to do it for you...and that takes a moment to fill ,during that short moment bearings is not getting enuff oil...
by prefilling filter you eliminating any chances of bearings running dry and will build oil pressure right away....
 

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I would run Brad Penn 10-30. I would not run synthetic oil for some time, if ever. I have been an aircraft mechanic since 1967 and all jets use synthetic oil so I have had exposure to them for years. There is nothing truly better than Pennsylvania crude based lube oils for our classic engines. As others said make sure it is a high zinc oil.
Pre filling the oil filter cuts down on the dry start up time due to the oil filter being filled first as the engine starts.

Penn Grade 1 High Performance Oil
 

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I'll add to the 2 above explanations.

Since the filter is installed at an angle in relationship to the ground, using much more than 1/2 full on a SBF will allow oil to spill out of the filter when you tilt it and then spin it on.
 

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I would run 10W30 high zinc oil in a 289.... 20W50 is too heavy for this engine unless it has a lot of miles and wear on it... You could use a 10W40 but I think the 30 weight is fine, even in NV.

I have used many different motor oils but found that Valvoline VR1 10W30 conventional in the silver bottle runs best in my 1965 Mustang convertible 289 HiPo engine. Rebuilt with around 4K on it...
 

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I would run 10W30 high zinc oil in a 289.... 20W50 is too heavy for this engine unless it has a lot of miles and wear on it...

Schooner, this is good advice. Possible damage is to be done running a thick oil like 20-50 ... especially if crude. 10-30 is a 30 weight oil when hot and is plenty thick for a street machine. Also, with a thicker oil like 20-50 and running a cheap filter, on cold startup you will force open the filter bypass allowing unfiltered oil into your bearings until your engine warms and the oil thins. This is even more prominent when running a high pressure pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
He Built My Engine

Hey Guys :)

I'm not doubling your help guys. However, the guy who built me engine and a good friend who owns and works in his shop. Recommended that I use the 20w-50 oil.

My engine only has 5,000.0 miles on her & bored-out 30ths.

You know guys or don't. I live in Las Vegas where the springs & summers don't get HOT !
THE GET BURNING :eek:
When we first moved here from my beloved Brooklyn,N.Y. I got in my car that was parked outside on the pad in front of my garage. I got in the car and it was like getting into an OVEN.
I reached to get me shoulder strap and WOW! It was so HOT, I JUMPED. Had to let go of it
like I put my hand on a HOT STOVE.

That what me engine has to endore. I think my builder was right about the 20w-50 oil :tup:


I would run 10W30 high zinc oil in a 289.... 20W50 is too heavy for this engine unless it has a lot of miles and wear on it...

Schooner, this is good advice. Possible damage is to be done running a thick oil like 20-50 ... especially if crude. 10-30 is a 30 weight oil when hot and is plenty thick for a street machine. Also, with a thicker oil like 20-50 and running a cheap filter, on cold startup you will force open the filter bypass allowing unfiltered oil into your bearings until your engine warms and the oil thins. This is even more prominent when running a high pressure pump.
 

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Your buddy may know something you dont like the engine will have to low of an oil pressure if you use 30 or 40 weight. If that happens then something is wrong with the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Problem Is I Don't Have An Oil Pressure Gauge

Hey Arnoldtx :)

I don't know if the pressure is right or not. The only thing I know is I have a large oil pan that took 5gts.28oz. of the new oil.

What will a presure gauge tell me :confused:
If I had one, what would the right pressure be for my engine :confused:

As you can tell I'm not a car guy. I try to learn from what you
guys tell me that makes sense.

Thanks guy ;)

Your buddy may know something you dont like the engine will have to low of an oil pressure if you use 30 or 40 weight. If that happens then something is wrong with the engine.
 

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Install a gauge and get the engine to normal operating temp. Take readings at idle and at 2500 rpm. Once you do this report back.
 

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Install a gauge and get the engine to normal operating temp. Take readings at idle and at 2500 rpm. Once you do this report back.
Ditto on the above.

The amount of oil you put in is what most of us use. 5 quarts is stock and some even put in 6 quarts.

Some old time engine builders believe in a 50 weight oil but that is to heavy for a new or rebuilt 289 motor. You will have poor flow at start up compared to a 30 weight and most wear is at startup... Originally these 289's called for a 30 weight oil.

Your engine, your choice but if you insist on a heavier oil then go to 10W40, not a 50.

I have 10W30 in my 289 HiPo and run 20W50 in a Galaxie 427 which has 39K miles and the engine has never been out of the engine bay.
 

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A new engine should be tight, pressure for 289/351/302 should be 40psi hot idle.
I said a new engine with like new clearences, new cam bearings, proper rod bearing and main bearing clearence.
Normal cold psi will be 50/80psi
5.0 engines wich use the 1963 casting alum oil pump have 50psi cold and 30/40psi hot using 30weight oils.

Once you know the pressure you may find that your engine is tight like a jet engine or loose like a scrap metal pickup truck smoking down the road.

The AMSOIL is the best lubricant on the market. I use it in everything that burns diesel or gas.
The other oils are ok to use as long as you change often, but if you want the best AMSOIL makes it.
Most important for any engine is the air filter and oil filter, the regular filters are poor quality at best. Using an extra capacity filter will extend oil life and engine life.
The regular filters capture large particles of dirt but allow smaller particles to pass. this is why the 3000 mile oil change is so popular.
The oil becomes too contaminated with small particles wich damage the engine's tight clearences.
Skip all the retail horseturds and step up to top quality lubes and filters.
AMSOIL carries everything and is much cheaper to use.


Javier
 

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No matter what oil you use, you should never have driven that engine over 1,000 miles before the FIRST oil change.

And even in Henderson you DO NOT need 20/50. 10/40 is the thickest you should run, 10/30 is perfect for your rebuilt motor and ZINC additives or a "PROVEABLE" high zinc oil (take nobody's word for it), Fed. Regs. make it illegal to have more than small trace amounts in all motor oils manufactured for automobiles since the late 1990's. SO go to teh manufacturer and ask or simply buy some ZDDP and pour it in.
 

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No matter what oil you use, you should never have driven that engine over 1,000 miles before the FIRST oil change.

And even in Henderson you DO NOT need 20/50. 10/40 is the thickest you should run, 10/30 is perfect for your rebuilt motor and ZINC additives or a "PROVEABLE" high zinc oil (take nobody's word for it), Fed. Regs. make it illegal to have more than small trace amounts in all motor oils manufactured for automobiles since the late 1990's. SO go to teh manufacturer and ask or simply buy some ZDDP and pour it in.
Extreme Pressure (EP) Agents - Again ZDDP is the most cost-effective, but others exist. Most others are very expensive compared to ZDDP.


Detergents -Detergents are usually combinations of a rare earth metal and an oil soluble tail. Detergents are very basic and are used to control high-temperature deposits, oxidation, and oil acidity. Typically, the longer the oil change interval, the more detergent is required.

Friction Modifiers - There are several chemicals which can be used to reduce engine internal friction. Typical passenger car engine oils contain small amounts to improve fuel economy, but since they are very expensive chemicals, passenger car oils don’t use a lot of friction modifiers
Viscosity Improvers -All oils thin as they are heated. The amount an oil thins as it is heated is inversely expressed as its viscosity index (VI). The ideal oil wouldn’t thin at all as it is heated, so one should search for oils having the highest VI so they will thin the least as temperatures increase

research and testing showed that both detergent and ZDDP additives work in the same manner. Both additives produce sacrificial films which adhere to the surfaces you’re trying to protect. Since detergents can actually compete with ZDDPs for the surface of the cam lobe, high detergent oils tend to give the ZDDP additive less surface on which to be effective. This is a major problem when using Diesel engine oils on high-lift, flat tappet cam lobes.

don’t try to produce your own racing oil. ZDDP supplements have existed for decades, but most people don’t know the secret of blending ZDDP into oil. If the oil is cold when the ZDDP is added, the ZDDP won’t go into solution. If the oil is too hot, the ZDDP will decompose before it ever gets to the parts you were trying to protect. And “No,” I’m not going to tell you what the blending temperature should be.
Don’t fall for the racing oil which was created by adding ZDDP to existing engine oil (remember – too much detergent!). Look for the racing oil that was developed as a complete product using horsepower and durability test data, not marketing slogans. Marketing slogans might get you a free lunch, but they don’t guarantee more horsepower. Only good R&D does.
Beware of the person who comes to the game offering a “pinch of this and a dollop of that.” Racing oils aren’t designed that way. Let me give you an example. I’m one of the inventors of a well-known “Hot Rod Oil.” It contains a proprietary additive to prevent rust formation when engines are stored over long periods of time. No other additive company has this additive.



John Martin is a“motorhead” physicist who worked for Lubrizol for 25 years, and before that he worked for Shell. He has formulated and tested racing oils for NASCAR and NHRA Pro Stock engines for decades. He has 22 patents to his credit through his work on engine and driveline testing and optimization. He is currently building a fuel-injected 692 BBC for his street rod.
 

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No matter what oil you use, you should never have driven that engine over 1,000 miles before the FIRST oil change.

And even in Henderson you DO NOT need 20/50. 10/40 is the thickest you should run, 10/30 is perfect for your rebuilt motor and ZINC additives or a "PROVEABLE" high zinc oil (take nobody's word for it), Fed. Regs. make it illegal to have more than small trace amounts in all motor oils manufactured for automobiles since the late 1990's. SO go to teh manufacturer and ask or simply buy some ZDDP and pour it in.
Actually 500 for the first change. I know this is over 2 months old, but 20-50 is way to thick. 10-30 for your engine. Even in the summer heat.
If you need 20-50 to get regular oil PSI, then your bearings are to loose already. It also puts lots of strain on the dist gear and roll pin, and the oil pump drive shaft. Heavy oil requires beefer shafts.
Don't know how to break this to you, but Zinc in oil is now special oils only. Racing and speciality places only have it and that's been that way for about 4 years now. Even the old Rotunda doesn't have it.
The Zinc was for flat tappet cam break in. That happened the first 20 minutes and now it's ever good or gone. If she runs good then you fine and zinc is something you don't need. It's for cam break in.
Syn oil is only after the rings and cam have broken in. That happened within the first 500 miles. Use Syn oil if you want to.
Now take it for a spin up to St. George thru Virgin Gorge and see if she's a runner or not.
 
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