[cyberhawk9]

First time rebuilder here. Finally got to take the car out for a testdrive before handing it over to the shop to get new exhaust in, but it didn't go to good.

engine is:

351c std bore, honed, new rings, bearings. Aussie 2v. approx 11,5:1 comp. Comp cam S282, Roller rockers, Weiand 2V excellerator. Romac balancer and TCI flywheel, Newly rebuilt C6 and TCI torque converter. Restrictor plugs installed.

Got about half a mile down the road and got up to 50 mph, when it started sounding like exhaust hitting the bottom. Let of the gas and turned around and slowly started accellerating again, now it sounded alot louder so I shut it down and pulled over. Suspected newly installed fan cover, but it wasn't. Started engine again and I could hear it comming from passenger side cylinder bank. Oil pressure were fine, about 30-40 psi Thought rocker nuts backed off and several rockers hit the valvecover. Walked back to my garage and picked up some tools and pulled valvecovers. They were rocksolid bolted down. Bummer! Called a friend and he helped push the car back to my garage.

My guess is either of following:

1. Maincap or rod bolts backed off
2. Broken piston rings. (but still, no smoke)

Any other suggestions?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cyberhawk9 on 4/26/06 5:22pm ]</font>


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cyberhawk9 on 5/8/06 1:22am ]</font>

 

[dbiscayne]

Broken valve? if it broke inside the valve guide you won't notice it until you take the heads off or the valve springs off. I've heard the cleveland valves are notorious for doing this.

 

[dennis112]

Are the Aussie heads aluminimum? I ask because aluminum heads require more cold clearance than what is normally specified. With a cold engine and solid lifters, you should have lots of play in the rocker arms. As the engine heats up, the clearances will tighten.

Did you readjust the valves again after the engine warmed up? What did you adjust them to?



_________________
Dennis

65' Stang

393 stroker, Toploader 4 spd, 3:50 rear.

Victor Jr. knockoff heads, 282S cam, Stealth intake, Bigs Stage 5 750DP, Accufab headers, Scattershield, Caltracs.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dennis111 on 4/26/06 8:59pm ]</font>

 

[cyberhawk9]

The heads are homeported iron heads with bronze valveguides and have new Ferrera valves. I think the cam card said .024 and gave +.002 looser. Also the noise is loud, hard to describe, but sounds bigger.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cyberhawk9 on 4/26/06 10:16pm ]</font>

 

[ckelly]

If it's a loud RAP, sounds like a midget with a hammer in the crankcase, it's likely rod/pin/piston skirt. Either way - with a big noise and no smkoe, now's the time to pull it apart and find out. No quick fix, too much money to lose.

_________________

1967 Falcon 4 door w/351C - Owner built, owner abused.
70 Mustang 302 / 06 Ranger, 04 SuperCrew parts hauler
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: ckelly on 4/26/06 10:44pm ]</font>

 

[ChicoB]

Before you go pulling heads and stuff off, check to make sure the Torque Converter bolts are all tight. They can back out and start hitting stuff, sounds like a rod knock.

Happened on my 289/C4.

 

[wildosvt01_OLD]

Best question to be asked. You did'nt reuse stock valves did you?

I have a bent and beaten valve from making the same mistake. The Piston was equiped with A/C after that fiasco too.

 

[pedal2themetal45]

What kind of rocker bolt downs do you have with your roller rockers?? are they the single just tq it down or are they the poly-locks??
Tim

 

[cyberhawk9]

Yes, gold crane rockers with poly locks.

The valves are new Ferrera one piece ones.

Yes, actually I did think briefly about the converter bolts as a possibilty. Should have checked it before I left my garage, now I've got to wait until next weekend. damn

 

[GregP]

A polylock coming loose will let the rocker come loose and make all kinds of racket.

Check all your rockers on that side making noise.

Greg

 

[Motorhead]

Loose rocker sounds more like a clickety clackety, more light sounding than a rod knocking.

 

[GregP]

On 2006-04-26 12:12, Motorhead wrote:
Loose rocker sounds more like a clickety clackety, more light sounding than a rod knocking.

That's true, until you get about .250" valve lash fron the polylock slowly unscrewing...lol.....

Ask me how I know that one!

Greg

 

[Motorhead]

Oh, I know what it sounds like... mine went all the way from tight to falling off and laying on the cylinder head in about 2 miles on the highway.

I guess it depends on the rocker and the rod too, but from my experience the rod sounds more like a hammer hitting the side of the block, and the rocker sounds like a wrench hitting the valve cover.

 

[MarauderMan]

Thoopid questions:

Did you verify piston-to-valve clearance while assembled?

Did you verify rocker geometry and pushrod length thru all 720 degrees of rotation on all the cylinders?

Hate to say it, but its better to pull it now and work backward down the assembly chain. You'll be able to see if anything is backed off by pulling the pan; pulling the heads will tell you the rest.

Crossing my fingers for you here, chief!

Good luck!

 

[cyberhawk9]

update here!

Started by checking converter bolts. tight. Turned the engine by hand and I could feel something grinding inside. Made the decision to pull engine only. Disconnected everything on top and headed down to the converter bolts. While under the car i turned the engine manually and could hear the noise definately comming from converter/gerbox. Great! no need to take the engine apart!

Yanked the engine along with the gearbox. Out on the floor I seperated the motor from gearbox and suddenly I was looking at a wobbling flexplate with 6 bolts backed out. WTF! Brand new TCI flexplate with accompanying ARP bolts. It was torqued to specs. with the blue loctite-stuff...

Unless someone has another reason why they backed out I'm going to assemble it again with tougher loctite.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cyberhawk9 on 5/8/06 1:20am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cyberhawk9 on 5/8/06 1:25am ]</font>

 

[ujt389]

I always use the red stuff on those. The blue is not strong enough for bolts that large.

 

[107485]

how in the heck did they come lose with such little driving? i didnt use loctite and have no problems...and i was worried that i forgot loctite...but i got it torqued tight. you say you drove it only how far? wow sure you didnt forget them? j/k just seems odd they came so loose so quick..good luck

 

[cadillac512]

Some new flexplates are "painted" with a hammertone type paint that's quite thick.When things warm up the paint softens and migrates out from under the bolt heads and crank flange area. Suddenly the flexplate is loose......ask me how I know,lol.
Could this be what happened here?

Terry (grinding the darn paint off from now on......)

 

[igo1090]

ive never used loctite on my flex bolts, & never a problem. shouldnt need it with proper prep & torque. not using washers, right? i would double check all your hardware.

 

[cyberhawk9]

Yup, the hammerpaint is comming off and then I'll use the red loctite stuff.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cyberhawk9 on 5/8/06 3:58pm ]</font>