[foleysfriend]

After much guessing I have found a shop that can test and tune on a dyno. I hope this style of set up with all the machinery will get me dialed in. The 66 mustang with the 289 need a little tweaking. MSD ready to run and setting the jetting with unleaded gas is all new to me. I think it runs about $400 for 2 hrs . Hope this is the way to go .





Cheers

Greg

 

[Hottarod]

That sounds a bit high. The closest chassis dyno to me charges $45 for the first pull. I don't remember what it is after that but certainly not $400. Maybe your place is quoting you a complete package service. In my case I just want the output of the thing so I can make my own adjustments.

A rear wheel dyno will get your set up close but it still won't do everything. The quarter mile dyno is the ultimate.

 

[pbrown]

Make sure your cooling system is in good shape. You don't want to be spending that kind of coin only to be waiting for your engine to cool between pulls.

 

[foleysfriend]

This is a test and tune set up. I think the guy figures that 1.5hrs is about the time frame for jetting , timing etc. Cooling system is in good shape and they have a Huge fan that goes into the front of the car. Looks like something from a movie studio. Mopac in Langley B.C. Good bunch of guys at this place and I have been dealing with them since the early 80's.





Cheers

Greg

 

[Hottarod]

I bet they charge more for carb's these days. With computers they just plug in and tweak the tables.

 

[dennis112]

I bet they charge more for carb's these days. With computers they just plug in and tweak the tables.

Not necessarily cheap for the computer work either. Paid $725 last fall for 3 1/2 hours of computer work to dial in an Accel FI setup on a Banks twin turbo setup. 100% computer work on a Dynojet, not another tool was used. The Chebby 383 works perfectly now on the street. Can't get the owner to take it to the track.

 

[foleysfriend]

I was curious on the Hp after my engine rebuild and could always use the help of a machine and expert to do the tuning, not me guessing. There is a first for everything. I have heard positive results.



Greg

 

[PSIG]

They often have a 'prep' sheet. If not, do a search on here for where we discussed going to the dyno and what you should do and take.

David

 

[PSIG]

Like this. There's another thread where we mentioned stuff like extra parts and plugs, verifying the carb goes WOT when you step on it, shims if your vac canister is adjustable with those, list of actual cruise speeds (40-70mph in 10 increments) with RPMs and vac levels at those speeds for tuning cruise, etc. - though I didn't find it in a quick search...

David

PS: Make it clear what you want from the session. Most guys want a peak HP number. :tdn: Some want WOT tuning from X rpm to redline. :tdn: You're after a full street tune of fuel and ignition systems including all loads and RPMs - which of course also includes lean burn and vac advance in cruise ranges. :tup:

 

[foleysfriend]

Thanks for all that info David. I never really understood much of what I was getting involved with. I think I have the car in a comfortable spot with my set up, but one never really knows. Passed the emissions test. So I will ask those questions when I get the car to the shop. Thanks so much.


Greg

 

[foleysfriend]

So my 289 on the MD Mustang dyno made 209hp and 256 torque. Not sure if the combination of having a Holley Street Avenger 570 on a stock cast 4 barrel intake was the right choice but it pulled hard, and ran great after final tuning. Not sure if going with a bigger carburetor and better intake will help get the hp up. Just for cruising around town not bad. It has a Comp cams 270hr , beehive springs, 194/150 valves, Probe forged pistons, MSD RTR distributor, balance rotating assembly. ....Not that the results are not bad , but thought the hp might be a little bigger. Any suggestions.



Thanks

Greg

 

[PSIG]

It sounds like you're a bit mismatched. Find all your restrictions to pumping from the air filter to the exhaust tip and change the worst ones. I have seen awesome combos commonly strangled by weenie air filters or exhausts, and even blobs of excess gasket sealer bulged into the intake ports. There was one turbo Honda guy making ~270 RWHP on his street 1.6L and pump gas. Hmmm. After looking it over, the hacksaw came out, and chopped his fart can right off. Result - 310 RWHP. Check everything in the system. If you can't find anything, start making your "air pump" more efficient. Your dyno sheets can tell you a lot about where to look for things.

David

 

[foleysfriend]

Thanks David

Just to let you know you are right with the stock style mufflers that just went on to make my neighbors happy. The stock cast iron intake really needs an upgrade as well. To start.


Greg

 

[foleysfriend]

This is what the car looked like in it's happy place.

 

[mustangboy]

That intake and the exhaust manifolds are hurting you for sure.You should be able to peice together a quiet but efficient exhaust system.Headers won't make it that much louder by themselves.

 

[BuzzLOL]

.. If stock heads and iron exhaust manifolds, they're hurting power more than the intake... what are the heads? Stock iron LoPo or Hyper ones? Are intake ports and head ports gasket matched together... are your ports rectangular and not casting core slid into more like triangles? what's your compression ratio? That Comp 270H 222/222 cam really needs about true 10.5-11.5:1 compression ratio to bark loudly...

.. Don't get me wrong though, your results are quite respectable for a 289... most 302's running around are 115 - 175 RWHP...