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Discussion Starter #1
my 65 Galaxie has a 390 that was supposed to be out of an old f250 anyway I’m eventually planning on swapping the two barrel intake for a 4 barrel intake and I was wanting some info on what I have my intake has a few numbers on it C7TE 8425E and 6h18
The heads have C6AE and then something I can’t quite read maybe a 6 or a G as well as dif
The carb says c8af ba C. 8f. 27
I just want some info on these mainly what ports they have weather or not they are any good or worth anything really just any info I can get would be greatly appreciated
 

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1 - All that is worth the price of iron, but it's not junk, just nothing special

2 -C6AE-U is a high port low-flow undersirable head, the intakes have long been undesirable because of low power and heavy weight, and the 4300 carbs can run well, but most people other than resto guys shy away from them

If you want a nice running stocker, everything there can be used to run well, but any aluminum intake (almost) and almost any other FE head other than a C7AE-A or C8AE-H is going to make more power, even on a mild 390.

I wish it was worth more, but not much to the old iron stuff anymore, expensive to fix, heavy to ship, and unless someone has a resto the market is small
 

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I'd be a little more careful than that, avoid an SP2P, anything Weiand, most Offys, and a Performer 390 will really only be a weight savings. Good intakes would be any PI, F427 with a little rubbing. Great intakes would be Edelbrock RPM, Blue Thunder med riser, Streetmaster, Holley Street Dominator and iron Cobra Jet with a little rubbing as well

As far as the heads, all heads are fine, but all aren't great. Looking at 200-220 cfm ports versus 240-250, so if not tearing the motor down, I agree, but if rebuilding usually no reason to go with the crappier heads. One exception, if considering headers you have to match the head and headers. For a full size, I'd likely be looking for a C3/C4 or C6AE-R head, gain intake flow and have the opportunity for the early style exhaust ports to match headers. I haven't had a set of C6AE-U heads in hand for a long time, but I think they are the lowered exhaust port and a set of early/CJ headers will leak from the bottom of the port. The opposite is true with trucks, in fact, in my F100, we went with a 215 cfm D2 head, worked them to 277 cfm. I had no choice unless I built headers because the truck headers come with the low exhaust port. and would have likely leaked at the top of the port with aftermarket or early heads.

That being said, it is a very good point that going to head swap isn't really necessary until other things are done, and assuming you match the headers for both today and tomorrow if upgrades are planned. My rule of thumb for most FE guys is

1 - Headers and good dual exhaust with H or X pipe, recurve the distributor, open air cleaner, make sure you are getting full throttle, and if not going 4 barrel, a Holley 500 alone is worth about 15 HP with the other things. Icing on the cake is a shift kit. (That combo makes even a 2 barrel 360 so much more fun to drive)
2 - Gear for use
3 - Good intake and reasonable carb, 3310 Holley is pretty much good for anything 390 or bigger and allows growth up to about 500 hp later
4 - Better heads and cam to match components and use

Of course it goes up from there, you can see 3 of my most recent builds tin the tech exchange if you want to get some street ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A few things
That motor came out of an f250 from what I’m told so would it have the lower ports?
Also I hear a lot about different ports does that include ports on the intake?
Also I don’t exactly have money for different heads and used fe parts are about as easy to find as parts for pagani zonda the only guy near me with parts thinks they are made of gold Like $400 for a used cast iron intake $100 for a used water pump
I was looking at an edlebrock performer intake ( now wonder if I should spend the extra for the performer rpm) an edlebrock 2106 cam and an edlebrock 750 cfm or 600cfm carb with a manual choke
 

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Edelbrock intake + Edelbrock carb avoids issues. If you like you can enlarge the aluminum ports to match your heads.
When I built my 390 from a 352 I kept the cam because I couldn't figure how to remove it. Gives me 20 lbs vacuum though.
 

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Ford FE ports have a couple of different dimensions.

On the exhaust side, there are high and low ports, plus different bolt patterns. Bolt pattern is easy, just needs to bolt up, but the location of the exhaust ports has to match the header or it won't seal. Manifolds it doesn't matter as much because the whole gasket surface is the sealing point. Headers generally have a welded ring and it has to match the head. C7AE-A, C8AE-H and D2TE-AA, amongst others have the low port. I believe C6AE-U also does, but it's been a while. C3, C4, C5, all are high port, as are C8OE-N Cobrajet heads. C6AE-R is a unique head, because it has a low roof and high floor allowing both to work The part number is similar, but I do not believe the C6AE-U is like the -R, I believe it is a match to a C7AE-A which is a low port

On the intake side, there are low riser, medium riser, and high riser heads, then an oddball, which is the C8AE-H, C6AE-U, D2TE-AA, and others which are medium riser port centerline, but not a medium riser port. They are smaller is every direction, low flowing ports that are on a medium riser centerline. I believe that is what yours are, but like I said, haven't had a set in hand in a while. C6AE-R is a cool and very different head from yours, often called a "poor man's CJ", because it is a low riser port, and has the adaptive option on the exhaust

Ports on the intake manifold should match the head, it's another thing to pick parts correctly.

As far as needing to buy, you don't NEED to buy heads, but the worst heads for FE only flow about 210 cfm, so if you want to make big power, it starts hurting you.

As far as the intake, I would not waste my money on the Performer or Performer 390, even on a mild build. The RPM is worth power everywhere. Also, go with a 750 if going Edelbrock, the 600 doesn't hang with a 600 Holley and a 390 can easily handle an Edelbrock 750, even stock.

Watch my list though, no headers, no recurve of the distributor, probably not even worth touching the engine, full exhaust (to include headers to match the heads) and distributor recurve are absolutely your biggest gains on the street
 

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Its really easy to get caught up, do a lot of work, spend a lot of money. And - have the car down for a long time.
My427Stang's advice is solid. If you really want to get into it, get one of the manifolds he's recommended, and a 4-barrel carb to match.
But don't mess with the rest of it, at least not at the moment.

Swapping cams without doing the exhaust is a waste of time/money.
There's plenty of small stuff you need to do (modern ignition systems, exhaust, distributor timing) before tearing into the motor.

They're great, but...building FE motors is expensive, and the parts are hard to find (the guy with the $400 cast-iron manifold is trying to rip you off).
Unless you have deep pockets, I'd recommend enjoying it mostly as-is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I am planning on doing 3 inch dual exhaust ( considering an h pipe as well) I want to do headers too but I haven’t found any long tubes that will work with a 65 Galaxie and most of the shorties if you read the comments people say they had issues making them work on a 65
the only reason I would by all of this including the cam is because I just put in my two weeks notice at oriellys and we get a sizable discount on edlebrock parts
 

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So an Edelbrock RPM intake is the way to go and a 750, can't go wrong, however, realize the 3 inch exhaust, as well as the intake part is wasted on an FE without headers. Not just sort of wasted, the difference between a set of passenger type manifolds and street long tube headers is likely 40 HP on a 4 barrel motor, so if you add the 4 barrel and gain 8-10 because it's bottled up, hardly worth it until you can get it breathing
 

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Maybe someone with the experience of installing those headers around the starter, frame, PS, the A/T, sould share. Not saying it can't be done just wondering about the difference between hypothetical and reality.
 

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Puttster, are you saying you couldn't get those headers in? My experience is Hookers across many applications is that they usually fit well, but doesn't mean they are easy. In fact, most guys don't crack open the directions or take the time to fit them properly and then blame the header

I will also add, that the gain in long tubes is in no way hypothetical, in fact, whatever the brand you use, a recurve and headers with the proper exhaust is worth more initially, and paves the way for more, than anything else. Dyno and street proven many times over.

In the end though, easy, hard or not, manifolds steal badly, especially stock logs.
 

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I'm running FPA shorties. Fit was perfect. They are not cheap, though. Surely there are others out there.
Nick - take a hard look at your budget, and the order of upgrades that My427Stang has advised.
 

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my 65 Galaxie has a 390 that was supposed to be out of an old f250 anyway I’m eventually planning on swapping the two barrel intake for a 4 barrel intake and I was wanting some info on what I have my intake has a few numbers on it C7TE 8425E and 6h18
The heads have C6AE and then something I can’t quite read maybe a 6 or a G as well as dif
The carb says c8af ba C. 8f. 27
I just want some info on these mainly what ports they have weather or not they are any good or worth anything really just any info I can get would be greatly appreciated
First off I believe you may have a 391T. That motor, if it was the original truck motor, came with a steel crank. Contrary to popular belief the best heads came on 1960 352 and 61-62 390 - both police/HP motors. Why are they so good? The compression took a standard 10:1 motor to a full point 11:1. There was alot of experimental work done on them as the smaller chamber still had enough room for machining in larger valves. The bottom end was a cast crank but used heavier connecting rods and bolts, similar to the 406/428 engines - though not capscrews- that was a couple of years away in the 427 and later 428SCJ. The 352 and 390 HP motors both came with a solid lifter cam producing 360 and 375hp respectively at 6,000rpm. For the best flow a single plane Torquer style manifold works well and maintains strong midrange torque. Sadly, imho, the Ford Dual Quad manifolds for standard low riser heads are dual plane and do not help a poorly designed head produce power.
I ran FE blocks in the early 60s through 1969 where I turned over to Clevelands which I race to this day. Still had many good years with FE blocks - all the way through to side oilers. Good luck on your build!
 

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Puttster, are you saying you couldn't get those headers in?
In the end though, easy, hard or not, manifolds steal badly, especially stock logs.
I'm glad you got yours in but back when I looked at at long tube headers I decided against it because lots of people said they were too difficult. Might have been ok in high performance cars without A/T, PB, stock starter etc but that was not my setup and IDK what OP's setup is.

1965 was in the heart of the great fight between Ford Galaxie and Chevy Impala for horsepower supremacy
. I figured Ford did their homework and if a different design would have picked up a few HP, they would have used it. Instead they used manifolds for engines as big as 428.

Everybody has a different situation, but that was mine, from a guy with a pretty much stock 390.
 

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Stock Ford Galaxie cast iron 390 log manifolds are extremely restrictive.
Even shorty headers are a big improvement over the stock manifolds.
 

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The gentleman is correct about the cast iron headers from Ford, They were known as Longbranch headers and were available on the 390HP and 406 in the very early 60s. Trouble is they weigh in about 40lbs, but are an improvement over the restrictive std flat exhaust manifold.
 
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